DIY Auto Top Off System for a Nano

[AquaEd]

I have a 12 gallon Aquapod that has an overflow compartment in the back. I would like to set up an auto top off system (the tank loses about 1 glass of fresh water every five days or so, but I suspect that this will go up a bit when I switch to Metal Halide lighting soon. Is there a reliable way I can set up an auto top off system? Thanks.

Sincerely,

Ed.

[gwen_o_lyn]

wow- that's not much water.
Plan on closer to 1/2g per day when u add the MHs.

How many watts are you thinking?

[Jimm]

I lose about 32 oz per day (A large Coke cup from Mickey D's) from my 10 gallon with 70W MH over it. On warm days I have temperature problems and have to run a fan over it. When I do that I lose twice as much. I expect a higher wattage fixture would have a higher lose as well.

[Scott]

this water loss, is this with or without a lid/cover over the top of the tank?

I know with my 26 I lost maybe a gallon over a few days with a lid. But now that I don't have the lid I lose that gallon much faster. of course, I also have an uncovered sump/fuge too.

[kj_yoda]

My 90 loses about 1 gallon a day and my nano (15 gallon) only loses a little bit.

[jeepjon]

I have built EASY and reliable auto top offs for nanos before. I may use it for my 10 gallon now. They are INCREDIBLY easy to make!

Here's how. Get a cheap air pump. Buy a float switch. (The one I used is like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/LIQUID-LEVEL-FLO...QQcmdZViewItem

I put it inside a medicine bottle (the bottle was drilled at the top for the switch, and drilled all around so that snails and such can't hang on it (can be mounted in display tank this way!).

You rig a 1 gallon bottle with screw cap (milk jug, maybe built out of PVC, etc.) so that there is one airline in and one out. The in connects to the air pump, and only protrudes into the container about an inch. The other line goes all the way to the bottom. When the air pump turn on, it pushes the water out! NOW...you can't have the reservoir higher than the tank, or the first time it turns on, the resevoir will siphon out. The float switch is wired inline into one side of the cord of the air pump.

This is a BASIC description. It is really hard to describe. I'll find the link for the one I made. I hope I've said some things that make sense.

It is really simple, works well, and is pretty fool-proof.

-Jon

[jeepjon]

http://www.floatswitches.net/

That's where I got my float switch.

I'll try to find a diagram of the instructions, or draw one.

-Jon

[jeepjon]

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/sh...t=DIY+auto+top


here's the thread from TRT. This is how I built mine. It works great!
-Jon

[Scott]

Jon, what you describe is pretty cool. the feed is sort of like what Rob did to start the drip in his Kalk video. Would have been nice to think of that when I was trying to figure out a DIY auto topoff. Instead I gave up and bought a JBJ auto topoff system.

But, when I get close to adding anything new to the tank I will use the method you mentioned to topoff the quarantine tank!

[jeepjon]

yeah, it works really really well. Just make sure it can't start a siphon, and you're great! (the end that flows into the aquarium can't be under water, and the reservoir should be lower than the tank...other than that, you're great!
-Jon

[Scott]

Yup, got that! All I need is a float.....I have a spare aqua-pump I could use. So by the time I need a QT, I'll be ready to auto top off that. :-)

[AquaEd]

How do you like the JBJ auto top off system? I am not a DIY guy at the moment (too many other balls in the air!) and would like to know if the JBJ system is a good system and what other components do I need? Thanks.

Ed.

[Scott]

I actually really like it. It has a built-in buzzer, so when it turns the pump on (you plug your pump into it) you hear a noise to alert you. I think you can open the unit and desolder the buzzer to silence it.

It comes with two floats, there are like three different combinations you can use to setup the floats. I'm only using one float in my return. you can use two floats, one in the return and one in your top off bucket...that way the pump won't run if the top off bucket water level is too low. and then there's a way to setup both floats in the return for max and min levels. Of course, you could put the floats in your tank...I just have mine in the return.

I have an aquaclear 20 powerhead plugged into mine with some hose to the return section. I have the powerhead sitting in a 5 gal bucket. doesn't take long to top off once it kicks in. Granted, the JBJ runs somewhere around $100 I think.

[johnnyblackheart]

Version 1.0
I took the basic design for the auto-top-off from floatswitches.net and just tried to clean it up a little bit. The round switch is ON/OFF, the square switch is a momentary switch so you can fill at will. I have had two of these running for about 4 months now with no problems. Hope this can help someone out.

Here is a list of parts used to make it.

From Radio Shack
• Mini Relay
• Project Enclosure
• Momentary Switch
• SPST Push On-Push Off Switch
• Screw-Cap Panel-Mount Fuse Holder
• fuses
• wire
• Dual Mini Board with 213 Holes
• Phono (RCA-Type)
• Panel-Mount RCA Phono Jack
• 9-Volt Battery Holder
• Fully Insulated 9V Battery Snap Connector


From Home Depot
• GFCI Duplex Receptacle
• power supply cord

From floatswitches.net
• floatswitches

Water Pump

Water Container
(I use a 2 gal for the 15 gal nano and a 5 gal bucket for the 55gal tank which gives about 5-6 days on each tank)

ATO-1.jpg

ATO-2.jpg

ATO-3.jpg

ATO-4.jpg

I think in the next version I will add a third phono plug and float switch. This third switch will be placed in the top-off container in order to keep the pump from running dry (which happen to me luckily the battery died before it killed the pump).

[Scott]

Johnny, I really like how clean your design is. And I like the use of the RCA connectors for attaching the floats to the system, not to mention the fuse and power buttons. The electrical outlet was a nice idea too! I'm guessing the 9v is the only power that is actually going to the float, much safer than putting the float in-line on an extension cord. I take it the fuse is in-line on the AC cord....what rating/size are you using?

[johnnyblackheart]

Thanks!
You are correct the fuse is in-line on the AC side I’m using a “fast Acting 10amp 250volt” fuse. You are also correct about the 9volt. If the electricians and electrical engineers will forgive me, here is a schematic of the topoff unit.



auto top off.jpg

[Scott]

Johnny, the schematic is awesome!!! thanks for posting that!

the mini relay, is it a specific type....I assume contacts are rated for the 120v AC.

I may just have to go over to radio shack with a small shopping list. been a while since I've played with my soldering iron.

[johnnyblackheart]

Thanks

The relay is Shack part#275-248 125VDC/10A SPDT Mini Relay http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

I used a plastic wall plate as a template to do the cut out for the GFCI outlet.

[jeepjon]

wow...a cool setup! I like that. Not too hard to put together either!
Thanks for that info!
-Jon

[V]

whats the average cost to whip one of these babies together ? Got to be a site cheaper than a tunzie top-off id imagine.

i also might need a sparky friend to help me, cause the 60's were good to me

[PreauxPhoto]

I went with a more “low tech” method.


1. an air tight container
2. air line
3. syringe (I used 60ml)

Drill 2 holes in the top of the container or one at the top and one in the side. Then thread 2 lengths of air line in one to the bottom the other stops at the top. Glue to get a good seal at the hole.


I cut the top off the syringe to give a level area then place the air line that stops at the top of the bottle into the tip of the syringe. Take the other line at the bottom of the bottle and run it down the side of the syringe and tape in place.


Place the bottle above the tank (I put it on top of the light). Now what happens is you start a siphon form the bottle into the tank. When the water level hits the bottom of the syringe the flow stops. It creates a vacuum in the air line. When the water level drops below the syringe the siphon will automatically start again. It works great in a nano because you can put it in the back and no one can see the syringe.

I use this as an ATO on the weekends on my tank at work. It’s cheap and easy.

[eChan]

I went with a more “low tech” method.


1. an air tight container
2. air line
3. syringe (I used 60ml)

Drill 2 holes in the top of the container or one at the top and one in the side. Then thread 2 lengths of air line in one to the bottom the other stops at the top. Glue to get a good seal at the hole.


I cut the top off the syringe to give a level area then place the air line that stops at the top of the bottle into the tip of the syringe. Take the other line at the bottom of the bottle and run it down the side of the syringe and tape in place.


Place the bottle above the tank (I put it on top of the light). Now what happens is you start a siphon form the bottle into the tank. When the water level hits the bottom of the syringe the flow stops. It creates a vacuum in the air line. When the water level drops below the syringe the siphon will automatically start again. It works great in a nano because you can put it in the back and no one can see the syringe.

I use this as an ATO on the weekends on my tank at work. It’s cheap and easy.

Hi, I'm planning to setup a tank and really interested in this simple design. Would you please enclose more pictures to illustrate on how the the bottle and syringe are being placed? Thanks!