rroselavy's 55g

[rroselavy]

Hey all,

The tank has been progressing pretty well. There are several encroaching micro and macro algae to monitor, and I am slowly learning about optimum coral placement and other general husbandry tasks.

I wanted to automate a few things while controlling my temps a bit more precisely. Specifically, I wanted to:

1) control temperatures within a +/- 0.1 F precision.

2) have a feed timer that would temporarily defeat return and skimmer pumps for up to an hour.

3) be able to control 8 outlets, with the option of adding more in the future.

4) monitor pH in the future when a Kalk Stirrer is added to the system.

5) log and graph parameter data so I can see temp and pH trends to better understand my tank's development.

6) have the option to connect the controller to a LAN/WAN so the controller can be monitored and/or controlled remotely. I also have no desire to keep a personal computer running all day to act as a host for controller server software, so a Ethernet interface was desired.


---

Digital Aquatics RKE

I don't really need a sophisticated controller , but wanted Ethernet connectivity and some room for growth. This pretty much left me with the Neptune Systems AC3 or Digital Aquatics RKE as being the more affordable solutions. Either solution would have worked just fine, and the AC3 has the advantages of being proven and having Ethernet built-in, but the RKE seemed to have the more appealing interface and aesthetic advantage with the promise of a Ethernet web/server module later this year. Being the risk taker that I am, I decided on the RKE.


The RKE head unit showing a countdown for the "Standby 1" feeding period.

Happily, the text on the display of the RKE was not fuzzy/washed out like the one from the MAX show last spring.

Digital Aquatics already had a few firmware revisions to the various modules, so I upgraded them before putting the device into use. Just to make sure there were no major malfunctions, I ran the RKE on my QT for a few days before connecting it to the system.


Please note the removable plastic film from the packaging is still on the power strips. I forgot to remove it.

Each RKM-PC4 power module allows control to 4 outlets. There are two PC4s included with my RKE pre-sale purchase. The touch-sensitive buttons on the power strip allow each channel to be manually turned on/off. Holding a finger on any of the buttons for four seconds puts the strip into manual mode where the outlets can be turned on/off manually. Pressing it again for 4 seconds puts it back into program mode. This is pretty neat if you need to manually override a channel while doing maintenance.

Minor complaint: It would have been a bit more intuitive if DA laid out the "cap-sense" buttons and the channel indicator lights of the PC4 in the same horizontal orientation of the outlets for more intuitive correspondence of the buttons to the outlets.


BEFORE:




AFTER:



I have a bit more cable tidying to do...

As you can see, while other people who claim that their controller has really simplified the amount of timers and strips in their stand, the RKE appears to have complicated mine. No worries, because the controller has already streamlined one important task. Before I had to open my stand and physically disconnect my pumps in order to feed. Now I just put the RKE into "Standby 1" mode and it shuts off specified pumps for 30 minutes. When away from home, I used to have the person taking car of my fish just dump food in without shutting off anything; now it is so easy and automatic to use the standby mode (literally two button presses), that they can do that as well.


Initial impressions

I really like the controller. It is pretty slick and offers more than enough control I need for the foreseeable future. Some people have reported some initial power issues with some MH ballasts and a few others with some system freezes, but I have not seen any issues yet. (knocking on wood). Perhaps installing the two or three firmware revisions has done the trick.

I haven't yet programmed anything except for setting hysteresis of the temperature control, assigning Standby channels, and monitoring the readings and graphs. I will probably add a audible/visual alert if my temp/pH exceed certain values. Once I add a full size refugium and a kalk-stirrer, my use of the controller will increase.

My pre-sale unit includes a coupon for a free moonlight/moonlight controller when they are released. I already have moonlight capability on my Solaris light fixture, so I am not sure how I will use these...but free stuff is always cool. Perhaps I'll put them on my forthcoming fuge.

The only goal not satisfied by my purchase is remote monitoring and control, but that is more of a convenience and will be added at a later date.


Some Minor Criticism

I am never one to solely blather on about how great something is, so here is my downer section:

1) The RKE firmware can only be upgraded using a Windows PC computer. Poopy. As I have stated before, I use Macintosh computers - and although I can install Windows on my mac in a dual-boot configuration - I am not very interested in doing so. What I can do is bring home a dual-boot iMac we have at work whenever there is a firmware upgrade to install. Inconvenient, but not a deal breaker.

2) The graphs (here is a pic from RC) are really tiny, using about 25% of the screen real estate. Not sure why DA did not have three-quarter or even better full screen (scrollable) graphs, with much better time/value rulers. Also, the current interface offers no way to obtain log data at any specific time. Graphs simply display the last day or week worth of data, with a "zoom" mode that scales the graph vertically to fit the high and low limits of the readings to the height of the graph. Lastly, there is some sort of bug that does not flush the graph data when graphing is disabled for a particular parameter.

3) Even though the price of the RKE includes the head unit, 2 PC4 power strips, the SL1 sensor module, temp and pH probes, one almost expects these days that a $500 electronic device can get you a color screen with finer resolution. I just ran across the Labquest, a handheld logging device that had a beautiful touch sensitive color screen with smooth, high-resolution graphs for about $330 (note: no included probes or means of control) . Makes graphs very easy to decipher. Perhaps the next RKE head unit will have such a display - but for now the current screen is sufficiently functional.

4) No built-in Ethernet (includes only a dongle for upgrading firmware). This is where the AC3 (similar configuration - $460, includes Ethernet) represents a real value. DA will be releasing an Ethernet web-server module for the RKE, supposedly available in the fourth quarter of this year for less than $150. Hopefully it will display parameter graphs, allow remote control and dispatch email alerts. Maybe DA will also allow this web server to perform firmware installations for the attached modules, who knows...

5) Plastic shell of the PC4 power strip is a bit thin and uninspiring.

6) Control layout on the PC4 could be slightly improved. (see above)

7) The lock-out feature of the RKE is critical for me since I have 2 kids who have learned the fine art of crafting a footstool out of any remotely firm object. Unfortunately, the lock-out can only be engaged through a menu item nested seven or eight button presses into the controller's menus. I have already suggested to DA that the lock should auto-engage after a period of inactivity, and that there should be a quick one-press way of engaging the lock. It sounds as if they will consider the request.

[Phurst]

Nice writeup. I'm glad you're happy with your controller choice, and I look forward to hearing your experiences as you continue to use it. It's a nice looking unit for sure.

[rroselavy]

As I have stated elsewhere, the Elos NS500 is superbly constructed almost entirely from thick cast acrylic, has a small footprint, and has the unique ability to be configured with the outlet and drain in any of four directions - making it very forgiving for tight sumps. With that said, the tank is almost 1 year old, and I have yet to see the skimming performance out of this skimmer that I was expecting.


The Svelte Elos NS500 Skimmer

My concern is not so much the quantity of skimmate or the dryness of the skim as much as the lack of consistency of skimmate production. Even though my feedings have been very consistent and slowly increasing in volume, and I have tried the few tuning/maintenance tips, and even a new pump - the skimmer has only produced skimmate every other day at best. Some threads suggested that this behavior was most likely due to low levels of organics in a young tank, or because of other effective export mechanisms like my tank's DSB or my consistant water changes. This did not console me when I have a building Bryopsis and Cyano infestation. My fear is that the NS500 skimmer is significantly oversized for my current bioload or that this particular downdraft design is simply not able to extract nutrients quite as efficiently as some more current skimmer designs. In either case, the NS500 may have been allowing excess nutrients to remain latent long enough to be available for algae growth.


The Inner chamber of the Elos NS500.

In the NS500 downdraft design, bubbles introduced at the venturi are quickly injected from a small tube opening at the center of the NS500 inner chamber. The injector tube partially blocks the base of the skimmer's neck at the nominal transition between the reaction chamber and the neck. The bubbles are driven into the inner chamber and then float back up for increased reaction time. The potential side effects of the NS500 injector design are the increased turbulence and obstruction at the base of the neck because of the NS500 injector, and the reduced effective ~2.75" diameter of the NS500's inner reaction chamber when compared to the more generous 5" RS80 reaction chamber. I am not a skimmer expert in the least, so my suspicions may not be warranted. They are based solely on my experience with the NS500 and my informal research into recent skimmer designs and discussions.

I decided that for my own sanity I should start by giving a needlewheel skimmer a try. The trick is to find a decent one appropriately sized for a 55g tank. It is interesting to note that the more interesting and well regarded skimmers are in the 125g and up range, suitable for a 90g perhaps - but possibly overkill for a 55g.

One possible exception is a Euro-Reef RS80. This skimmer is a classic (basic) needle-wheel design that many have modified with mesh impellers to improve the output. Perhaps not quite the most efficient performer (without the bells and whistles of the most recent crop of skimmers), but my hope is that it is nearly as good and thus a great value overall. I recently found a refurbished RS80 (with new pump) on the Euro-Reef Store site for $180, so I decided to purchase one to compare to the NS500.


RS80 12 hours after installation.

The RS80 has a 9"x9" footprint, which consumes more space in my diminutive sump than the NS500's 6"x10". It also has the output riser pipe coming out of the body at an angle that is perhaps not the most efficient for my small sump. The skimmer had to be raised 2" so the outlet pipe would feed my sump's media compartments the same way the NS500 did. I made a stand out of egg crate, but may redo it later as it is not perfectly level and could be another half inch higher to keep the output pipe even further above the water.


Outlet and Wedge Pipe Riser

Otherwise, I have been pleased with the adjustability of the RS80 skimmer. The "wedge pipe" riser allows the bubble level in the neck to be raised or lowered, and there is a valve for the air intake as well. Euro-Reef recommends a 6.5" water depth, not using the air valve in order to maximize air intake, and using the wedge output valve for adjustment only. The wedge pipe is probably not nearly as smooth as a gate valve when adjusting, but I have already got a "feel" for the wedge pipe that seems to be working predictably.

The construction quality of the RS80 skimmer is very nice, not overbuilt like the NS500, but plenty sturdy. I also noticed that the skimmer cup does not drip like the NS500 does when it is removed from the body.

As far as performance is concerned, I am pleased that the bubbles are very consistent and take very little time to build in the neck on startup. The skimmer has produced the same amount of skimmate each day, roughly 1/3 cup per day...nearly twice that of the NS500 at about the same subjective density. We will see if that consistency holds up as the skimmer breaks in.

On the down side, the water began to overflow into the cup on a few times when I was blowing crap out of the crevices of my LR, so the RS80 may be more sensitive to overflowing than the NS500 was. The instructions warn against this when using certain additives, which is pretty standard for most skimmers.

I will be very impressed with this skimmer if it keeps this pace, and may even try my hand at a mesh wheel mod someday. Heck, I may even try the RS80 Needlewheel pump on the NS500 just to see what happens.

[bbl_nk]

Love the write-ups! I skimmed the last two over and need to go back and really read through thoroughly. I really appreciated the controller portion. I am not in the position to get one yet, but have really been looking for a way to control my Seio Prop powerheads with some type of controller to drop down voltage to about 50% and back up to 100 for wave action, plus a built in feeding mode, plus a nightime slowdown period.

I really like the way controllers are going but do think there is a lot of work to do before they really can become "bigtime." For one, it needs to work on a standard similar to the Z-wave alliance in home automation products. There needs to be more connectivity for remote monitoring via any internet connection (also helps to be able to change something back you forgot to do while away from home), and ease of programming. We should be able to create simple scenarios and functions without having to take classes on a computer programming code.

Just some of my observations

[rroselavy]

Brian- Thanks for the props and sorry for the long text. I was recently joking with Amphibious about our tendency to go verbose, and it seems like I'm still guilty...

I did a good amount of consumer level research on aquarium multi-controllers before settling on the RKE. One of my criteria was connectivity, and that is the area I gave Digital Aquatics the benefit of the doubt. Their upcoming ethernet-based web server module (RKM-NET) sounds like it may be exactly what I have been waiting for, but we will have to wait until later this year to see.

IMHO, Ethernet connectivity is the most robust solution since you can directly connect it to a internet router or add a wireless adapter. Neptune Systems and MCUResearch have been using Ethernet in their controllers for remote monitoring/control some time now. It costs a bit more, so manufacturers are reluctant to include it in their entry level products since it is not considered an essential feature.

Digital Aquatics was mentioning that they were incorporating some flavor of short range wireless connectivity called Zigbee, which I hadn't heard of before. I assume that would be available in a module, but there has been no talk since.

[EC.]

FTS please?

[rroselavy]

FTS please?

Sure EC, thanks for the interest. I'll try to take some this weekend when I have the time to set up the tripod.

[bbl_nk]

Scott,

I think verbose is better than quick snippets, gives you more to mull over and pull information out of, so I like reading both your and Dick's posts I think an aquarium contoller will have to be added to the "when i win the lottery" coulmn along with the Solaris lights I am a technophile so I love reading up on new things and its interesting to see how mainstream consumer electronics and the auqarium industry overlap and also how different they are!

[EC.]

Can't wait for pics

[rroselavy]

Can't wait for pics

Hey EC, haven't forgotten about you. I snapped a few FTS pics over the weekend, but in my haste I did not clean the glass very well and the daylight caused bad reflections in the glass. I will have to reshoot the FTS at night, but for now - here are some macros of some newish additions:


Dark Pink Birdsnest. (Seriatopora stellata). At 4"x5", this is the biggest colony I have purchased, and I feel guilty for not buying a frag and growing it out, but I fell in love with this one. I will post a pic of the entire colony with my FTS.


Montipora Capricornus. This one is pretty intense. 2" frag.


Pocillopora sp. When I bought this one I thought it was a Pocillopora damicornis, but the polyps are very densely packed. I am thinking P. verrucosa. Regardless, I love how intensely green this one is, and the frag came mounted on a very nice oblong base with a "Fish Heads" insignia on the bottom.


Here are some new macros of some not-so-new additions:


Echinophyllia sp. Has shown some new growth in the form of a 1/8" "skirt" around the circumference.


Euphyllia parancora. This coral was being suffocated by encroaching corals which may have stunted growth, so I moved it to a new place in the tank where it already seems a bit happier.

[Amphibious]

The thanks is for being verbose, along with me, on some posts.

Thanks also for the macros Scott. Nice looking corals.

Dick

[EC.]

Very Nice pics!

[dillan]

i agree very nice indeed

[rayme07]

I also agree great shots of your corals Thanks

[Skurvey Dog]

Thanks for the beautiful macro shots Scott. I really enjoyed them. I reread the page in your post and feel that I am having a learning experience myself with optimum coral placement. Trying to get an acceptable visual placement in the DT and correct amount of light exposure, multiplied by water flow has sometimes been a challenge. I feel the water flow has been my greatest challenge. You've done quite an impressive job!

[rroselavy]

[rayme07]

Very nice photo rr.

[CarmieJo]

Cool! I love their "horns".

[rroselavy]

Yeah, I'm going to try to take another macro pic with more depth of focus to get those horns sharp.

I never had a Blenny before. I think they're a blast. He was a bit allusive the first day, but now he wiggles out into the water column quite actively seeking food during meal time. He's so dark that he blends right into the LR. I love the way he is motionless for almost a minute at a time; it is as if he is staring back at me. He is very photogenic...

Thanks for the comments.

[Skurvey Dog]

He is adorable. I do so hope you can get some more shots. He would make the perfect facial shot for a frog prince. He is so cute.

[serval]

rroselavy,
I finally discovered your tank thread; what a good read! Your photos are amazing and I learned a lot. What kind of blenny is in your most recent set of posts (I know, the posts date back 6 mo's ago!). And, a silly question: did you mount your ATO controller for the Elos 70 on the stand wall and if so, how? It didn't come with any mounting holes.

I have the same tank, as you know and am 2 yrs behind you, in tank devel and learning! It sure is fun though.

[rroselavy]

Welcome Serval to TR!

The blenny is a Starry Blenny (Salarias ramosus) and I really recommend them. He's got a LOT of personality, and is the only fish in my tank that always seems to watch me (stare directly at me) when I approach the tank. He likes to perch on my LR or Derasa clam, never seeming to bother anything. He is quite a pig during feedings, and I particularly like the way he swims...very different from the clown or cardinals I've had in the past. He also has this very funny "plucking" motion when he picks at some of my Macro algae in the tank.

When I bought him, he was with a half dozen or so other blennies at the LFS. His coloration at the LFS was grey, almost white. This may have been due to stress or the copper treatment they use, but once I got him home he quickly turned dark with the light "star" spots. Very striking.

The Elos ATO controller was fastened to the stand. I used 4 plastic hooks that I could screw to the rear panel of the stand. Each pair of plastic hooks hold two zip ties that secure the ATO box. You could also do it with those square adhesive zip tie mounts if you do not like to use screws.



FWIW: I used the Elos ATO controller for the first year. The "retard circuit" they have in that device works well. After that it seemed to misbehave. I tried to clean up the float switch, but it still seemed to get stuck on. After doing some research on ATO controllers, I decided to get a dual-float switch model for more redundancy. I now have the ReefFanatic ATO controller, which has worked flawlessly so far. At work I use a dual-switch autocontroller.com ATO controller, which has also worked without fail.

Feel free to ask more questions. I've been through several (minor) issues with this tank. Overall I love it!

Do you have a build thread?

[CarmieJo]

Here you go. http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/me...los-build.html

[serval]

Thanks CarmieJo,
I just started the build thread when rroselavy suggested it! Good idea.

[bklynreefdude]

Scott:

Lookin' goooood, and now you have something (that controller) for me to be jealous of. I got my Reefkeeper Lite today and will probably have a big head scratching sit down with it tonight to see if I can program it. New lights are installed so it will be interesting to see how they do compared with the Solaris. Thanks again for the heads up on the DA sale and all your useful info.


Matt