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Old 10-29-2007, 03:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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rroselavy's 55g

Hey all-

I finally decided to start a build thread on my new 55g tank. I'm pretty excited about this one, and pulled out a few stops when taking the plunge. This also makes me a bit nervous, because I can already feel the pressure to make something remarkable since a) I dumped a good chunk of change already, and b) I purchased a "turnkey" system that requires very little DIY. I'm going to have to earn some respect some other way...

First off, I would like to thank Rob, the TR staff and members for providing such a great resource and cultivating a supportive community. I would not have nearly as much confidence and knowledge without the encouraging backup.

The Tank

ELOS System 70
ELOS SUMP 400 Marine
ELOS NS 500 Skimmer w. Eheim 1250 pump.
ELOS SQUARE stand.
ELOS Osmocontroller II
Eheim 1260 Return Pump
Ecotech Marine Vortech MP40 powerhead
PFO Solaris G series 24" LED fixture.
2x 150w Visitherm Stealth Heaters


The Goal

Up until this point, I have maintained a 24g Nanocube FOWLR tank. Like many beginners, I was nervous about keeping corals after reading (over and over) that water conditions must be more stable and nutrient poor than maintaining a tank with a few hardy fish. In retrospect, I fully agree with the "corals first" philosophy, since fish tend to muck up the water pretty fast. Now my nano seems stuck in a nitrate-laden state (~10ppm), most probably due insufficient flow, crowded aquascaping, and lack of refugium and/or DSB.

With that said, I have learned a great deal over the past year and one half about tank maintenance, ecosystems and poor tank design. This tank upgrade will hopefully satisfy the following goals:

1) Larger water volume - The System 70 DT holds about 48g to the overflow line. The sump I would estimate at 15g. With a DSB and 64# LR, I estimate that the system has almost 48g total water volume. This is nearly 3 times the water of my 24g.

2) Much better circulation - In a nanocube, the LR is often piled up against the back, or is crowding the sides. It is very difficult to get an interesting aquascape when trying to allow for good water flow all around the rock. The System 70 is much longer and wider, which alleviates this limitation. I also wanted to utilize wide-stream powehead(s), to help prevent laminar current.

3) Better lighting - The nano came with 72w of PC lighting, which is fine for FOWLR and perhaps a few softies, but not enough for a full-blown mixed reef tank. AIO Nanos are also prone to overheating when there is sufficient lighting, due to the enclosed lid with insufficient ventilation.

4) Simple damnit - I am not a fan of power cords or plumbing tangles. Every decision I make about what to include takes into consideration the added gain/convenience versus complexity of appearance and maintenance. I want to make sure reefkeeping is enjoyable and that the system have as few points of failure as possible. I also wanted to keep water changes at or below 5g per week.

5) Denitrification - AIO Nanos allow very little room to facilitate the processing of nitrates into nitrous oxide. I hope to utilize an effective DSB and a macro-algae refugium in the new tank.

6) Coral Husbandry - More than anything, my main goal with this tank is to support a thriving environment for corals. I will probably start with the more hardy corals, such as Mushrooms, Ricordea and some other soft corals, and later expand into some stony branching corals. I seem to be attracted to color and movement, which probably labels me as a total .

---

Enough intro. Here's a few pictures of the cycling tank. I have been experimenting with flow rate from the Vortech pump, which can create major troughs in the sand with its wide flow (depending on speed and placement). The pictures show nearly 105# of 0.2mm<->1.2mm aragonite sand. After some initial settling, I added another 15# to bring the substrate to a 4" depth. I also have some adjustments to make on the Solaris light fixture mount. The tank has been cycling for almost 1 week.







Last edited by rroselavy : 10-29-2007 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Cool!! But isn´t the light a little too purple?
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark Of Sweden View Post
Cool!! But isnīt the light a little too purple?
Thanks. I took the picture thinking that the color balance was pretty close to what was seeing, but I have never had a "20k" equivalent fixture before. The fixture is currently at its default factory settings:

100% Day White
100% Day Blue
100% Lunar White - these look greenish compared to the lunar blue.
100% Lunar Blue

I will double check the color balance of the photos when I get home.

-Scott
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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oki:-) looking forward 2 see more pics:-)
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Old 10-29-2007, 05:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Cycling Question

I chose two very large (35#, 25#) pieces of live rock for the main display. The LFS had the rock curing for about a week. The rock was fairly clean, with some evidence of dead macro and micro algae, as well as encrusted mussels, coraline and some brown spots that reminded me of brown wafer algae. I had the LR in a heated and circulating plastic brute pail for almost 3 weeks before placing it into the DT. I tested several times, recording at first the presence of a small bit of Ammonia but a huge nitrite spike, then later ammonia and nitrite settling to zero, with Nitrates around 5ppm.

Now that I have had the LR in the main display for a week, my tests are about the same (0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5ppm Nitrate.) I have never had a DSB before, and I assume I am going to wait 4-6 weeks for this tank to settle in, but I am wondering if there is not enough putrefaction in this tank to start things off.

I have read Eric Borneman post that he likes to "feed" his tanks during the intial cycle, and I recall the oft mentioned rotting table shrimp nod in this forum - which probably amount to the same thing. Should I do the same, or just let the mostly cured LR do its thing?

Thanks,

-Scott
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark Of Sweden View Post
Cool!! But isn´t the light a little too purple?
LOL. I think I figured it out. I was looking at my other photos and realized that the sun was probably reflecting off a bright orange barrier fencing that we have outside for our deck repair! You can see the fence in the following photograph, as well as some splash of the orange light on the doorway molding and fixture. This is why the light and shadows of the right end of the tank are more purple than the left hand edge...


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Old 10-29-2007, 07:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Absolutely gorgeous. The first time I saw an ELOS tank i was stunned. They ooze quality. I like what you've done and look forward to many more posts!
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rroselavy View Post
I chose two very large (35#, 25#) pieces of live rock for the main display. The LFS had the rock curing for about a week. The rock was fairly clean, with some evidence of dead macro and micro algae, as well as encrusted mussels, coraline and some brown spots that reminded me of brown wafer algae. I had the LR in a heated and circulating plastic brute pail for almost 3 weeks before placing it into the DT. I tested several times, recording at first the presence of a small bit of Ammonia but a huge nitrite spike, then later ammonia and nitrite settling to zero, with Nitrates around 5ppm.

Now that I have had the LR in the main display for a week, my tests are about the same (0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5ppm Nitrate.) I have never had a DSB before, and I assume I am going to wait 4-6 weeks for this tank to settle in, but I am wondering if there is not enough putrefaction in this tank to start things off.

I have read Eric Borneman post that he likes to "feed" his tanks during the intial cycle, and I recall the oft mentioned rotting table shrimp nod in this forum - which probably amount to the same thing. Should I do the same, or just let the mostly cured LR do its thing?

Thanks,

-Scott
Scott,

Great looking system. I love the look of the tank as well as with two large pieces of LR instead of a lot of little pieces piled up on each other. When i set up my new 60g, i was lucky enough to find 2 larger pieces to add to my collection, but the were 20# and 15#, but they are the centerpiece of my liverock work.

I have used the dead shrimp method of cycling a tank. I think that if in another week or so, your ammonia is still at 0, I would add one hole, raw shimp to get the ammonia prodcution started. If you see the spike, then probably no need, but after one week, I would think that you would start to see some ammonia in the system.

Good luck! Look forward to seeing the progress.

John
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Danamck & John-

Thanks for the compliments. I hope my husbandry will do the tank justice.


Quote:
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When i set up my new 60g, i was lucky enough to find 2 larger pieces to add to my collection, but the were 20# and 15#, but they are the centerpiece of my liverock work.
I found the two pieces of Marshall Island LR at Vivid Aquariums, the one LFS I prefer in the area. Their LR prices were more than I remember, and perhaps more than they should be considering LA is probably the import capital of LR for the country. Never the less, I was really happy with the pieces and was willing to commit.

I really like the less complicated look of a few monolithic pieces, but I quietly panic a bit when I suspect that many corals for purchase already come mounted on rock. Incorporating those rocks may be a bit challenging. I assume that small frags are less of an issue.

Also, if I ever had to move this tank when it is well occupied by corals, it would be far more complicated if the corals are all mounted on a single huge rock.

Any guidance/suggestions?

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Old 10-29-2007, 10:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Absolutely gorgeous. The first time I saw an ELOS tank i was stunned. They ooze quality. I like what you've done and look forward to many more posts!
Thanks again. ELOS tanks are nice, and I like the sump and