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Thread: Installation of a aquasafe rodi

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    Installation of a aquasafe rodi

    Can someone please help me out I bought an aquasafe rodi but didn't come with installation instruction. I have picture of what I got but haven't got a clue what the peices are and how to install them.

    They don't even have a valide website just shows a picture.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Grand Master Reefer CarmieJo's Avatar
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    Gaston,

    I don't have one of these units so I can't help with your RO but I still wanted to say to TR!
    Carmie


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    Expert Reefer SaltCritters's Avatar
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    This might help out FIVE STAGE RO-DI SYSTEM
    PJ

    Check out our Build Thread Click Here!


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    Assistant Moderator rayme07's Avatar
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    Hi Gaston welcome to TR.
    Ray or Raymond
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    Assistant Moderator Skurvey Dog's Avatar
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    Hello Gaston. If you purchased the system from The Aqua-Safe Pure Water Shop on E-bay, they used to have an on-line instruction manual, which is not visable on the bidding/buy now pages that I see right now. E-mail them and they should be able to provide you with a link to the assembly instructions. I found that a pic of the assembled unit came in quite handy. Hope that helps.


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    Master Reefer Astrivian's Avatar
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    One word of advise: Wrap the threads for all the pieces with teflon tape. This will help prevent leaks and make them a bit easier to screw in.

    Okay two words: Don't overtighten the plastic screws! I did that with my unit by mistake and ended up breaking off one of the pieces in the unit. Oops.

    The system may look daunting but is actually pretty simple. The only tricky part is knowing which is waste and which is purified water from the RO filter. Other than that, the outlet of one tank goes into the inlet of the other.

    Okay more advise: Put a valve on the inlet to the unit. This way you can quickly and easily shut off the water to the unit. This helps prevent leaks, dripping, and is a generally safe practice i think. Sure, you could open and close the saddle valve all the time, but it is quicker just to put a cheap valve in.

    I have an Aquasafe unit as well, I will post a picture of it in a sec so you can se what i did.
    Samuel

    "If they but knew it, almost all men in their degree, some time or other, cherish very nearly the same feelings towards the ocean with me.... There is magic in it. Let the most absent-minded men be plunged in his deepest reveries--stand that man on his legs, set his feet a-going, and he will infallibly lead you to water, if water there be in all that region."

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    Master Reefer Astrivian's Avatar
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    Here's some pics that might help you out. This first one is the entire unit hooked up. I added some notes to the image so you can see what hoses go where. I think it is important that you color code your hoses. My waste water is yellow, my RO/DI water is blue, and my inlet water is red. You can find the hoses at your local hardware store in the section they sell automatic water sprinkler stuff.

    The water goes in on the bottom left side. It then goes through the first three filters (in the large white containers). It then goes up into the pressure valve (the white "boxy" thing) then into the RO filter. The water is split at this point (see the picture below) to waste (yellow tube) and RO water (blue tube). Then the blue tube just goes in oneside and out the other for the other filters on top (if you have them).

    The things stacked horizontally on top are (going up): RO filter, DI filter, Carbon taste filter.




    This is the two outputs from the RO membrane filter. This is the tricky part, knowing which is which. The really slow one is the RO water.



    Here is a picture of the pressure valve. This is the thing that shuts off the unit if one of the lines can't flow any more.



    This is the pressure valve that allows the RO filter to work. With this valve wide open, there isn't enough pressure on the RO filter for the water to get through the membrane. In the picture, the valve is "closed" to put pressure on the membrane and allow the filter to work. It is good, so the manufacturers say, to open the valve every now and then to "wash off" your RO membrane. When you do this, all the water comes out as waste.

    Samuel

    "If they but knew it, almost all men in their degree, some time or other, cherish very nearly the same feelings towards the ocean with me.... There is magic in it. Let the most absent-minded men be plunged in his deepest reveries--stand that man on his legs, set his feet a-going, and he will infallibly lead you to water, if water there be in all that region."

    Herman Melville, Moby Dick, Ch. 1.

    http://religiousspiritualism.wordpress.com

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    Astrivian, thanks for the photos , but i noticed you have two other tanks above your RO mambrane, I only have one. But if you look at the pic the one i have looks like your middle tube.
    Does this mean I Don't have the DI part of the system?

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    Master Reefer Astrivian's Avatar
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    What are the three blue and white tubes lying in front of you unit in the picture you posted? Are those the three prefilters? If so then you are right, you might not have the DI unit part. Don't fret, it is cheap and easy to add on.
    Samuel

    "If they but knew it, almost all men in their degree, some time or other, cherish very nearly the same feelings towards the ocean with me.... There is magic in it. Let the most absent-minded men be plunged in his deepest reveries--stand that man on his legs, set his feet a-going, and he will infallibly lead you to water, if water there be in all that region."

    Herman Melville, Moby Dick, Ch. 1.

    http://religiousspiritualism.wordpress.com

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    Insightful Reefer IAreef's Avatar
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    no those are the newer DI canisters mine came with all 3 as well when I purchased about a year ago I can post picks of a unit just like yours if you think they would help
    "Noone cares how much you know, untill they know how much you care."
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAreef View Post
    no those are the newer DI canisters mine came with all 3 as well when I purchased about a year ago I can post picks of a unit just like yours if you think they would help
    Yes if you don't mind, would like to install this unit right the first time.

    Thanks for the help everyone

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    Insightful Reefer IAreef's Avatar
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    Ok water from your saddle valve or what ever source you are using flows into the left side of the system through the red hose and valve...

    It then flows through the 3 canister filters to the right side of the system where it exits and flows into the white plastic cube with 2 white and 2 blue lines running into it...

    From here it flows into the left side of the RO membrane housing the solid white plastic housing which has two points to attach water lines to the top will flow back through the white plastic cube through blue tubing the other side flows into the preasure/backwash valve (the chrome metal piece with the knob) from here a yellow tube will take the waste water to a drain.

    The blue line that ran out of the white plastic housing will come out of the other side also with blue tubing and flow into the first of 3 clear plastic tubes with blue endcaps look very closely at the blue tubes as they have an arrow on the clear plastic housing indicating direction of flow, also if your tubes have it be sure to take out the plastic wrap from each end that keeps the DI resin into place.

    From the first clear/blue tube the water will flow into the second, then the third, again minding the directional arrows on the tubes after the third tube the line will exit and this will be your filtered water hook up to a faucet, valve etc...


    hook all this to a water souce and then spend the next hour or 2 retighting things and fixing leaks, at least that is what I did


    Hope this helps if I didn't explain anything very clear or you need different pics let me know.

    edit: Also I added a few thing like the preasure gauge and a T to split the filtered water to 2 areas so if there are a few extra pieces in the pics that's why.






    Last edited by IAreef; 01-04-2009 at 12:37 AM. Reason: Pics didn't show up, added
    "Noone cares how much you know, untill they know how much you care."
    "Fear Leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to suffering"

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    thanks for the info, so i do have to use all three canisters. So instead of using the one DI we now use three.
    Where would i install the storage tank after the RO and before the three canisters? I would also install the Drinking Faucet after the RO and DI filters! Pressure gauge should be installed where? I also bought a TDS meter and that i guess goes before the unit and after the three canisters.

    PLease let me know if i'm wrong.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IAreef View Post

    The blue line that ran out of the white plastic housing will come out of the other side also with blue tubing and flow into the first of 3 clear plastic tubes with blue endcaps look very closely at the blue tubes as they have an arrow on the clear plastic housing indicating direction of flow, also if your tubes have it be sure to take out the plastic wrap from each end that keeps the DI resin into place.
    I don't see arrows on my blue canisters

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    Insightful Reefer IAreef's Avatar
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    Yes when I spoke to them after purchasing my unit they said that the 3 blue/clear containers have the same total volume as the 1 old container so use all 3

    usually I believe the storage tank is after the RO but before the DI portion, then the outlet of storage tank is T'd with one side going into the faucet and the other back through the DI stage then to your reservoir for the tank. Some people don't believe in drinking DI water, my family does and actually like it better

    The preasure gauge goes inline with your incoming water feed before it reaches the RO/DI unit

    I have one side of my TDS meter hooked up to the supply line, so I can see how dirty the water is coming in, and also after the DI Stage so I can see when its time to replace the filters/ DI resin etc.

    The arrows on mine are on the clear part in the middle, if you don't have any arrows you can carefully screw off the blue end pieces and look at the holes in the end of the caps, the inlet should be clear ofany ubstructions and the outlet should have a fine mesh or something similar to keep DI resin from flowing out and clogging up the lines.
    "Noone cares how much you know, untill they know how much you care."
    "Fear Leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to suffering"

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    Yeah both ends of my di canisters have white mesh. they must have done this so it won't make a difference.
    Did they what the pressure to this unit to operate should be at?

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    Grand Master Reefer CarmieJo's Avatar
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    This is really helpful thanks Jason!
    Carmie


    Only disasters happen fast!





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    How fast does this unit produce the water? Should I be using a storage tank for when I have to do water changes?
    I changes about ten gallons at a time.

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    Insightful Reefer IAreef's Avatar
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    That will be based on you water pressure, if your pressure is low you can get a booster pump to helpout.
    "Noone cares how much you know, untill they know how much you care."
    "Fear Leads to anger, anger leads to hate, hate leads to suffering"

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    Astrivian - a couple of thoughts on your system:

    Your system is configured with a GAC (granular activated carbon) filter AFTER the DI stage. The water is as clean as your system can make it after it leaves the DI stage - the GAC after te DI is counter-productive and we recommend you remove it from the system.

    Horizontal DI housings are a design intended to minimize the original cost of the system - you should be prepared for the tradeoffs. Horizontal DI units typically contain 8 oz. to 16 oz. of resin. Typical vertical DI cartridges contain 20 oz of resin. Obviously the more resin contained in the housing the longer it will last and the better treatment it will provide.

    Some horizontal DI housings are not refillable - you'll therefore have to pay for a new housing every time you need to replace the DI resin. The cost of repeatedly replacing the horizontal housing will far outweigh any money saved up-front in purchasing the unit.

    Perhaps most importantly, horizontal DI housings are a less than ideal arrangement for water treatment. DI resin beds shrink through normal use over their life span. You'll note that a cartridge that was full when new can sometimes have a ¼ inch of empty space in it when fully expended. When DI resin settles in a horizontal housing, it leaves a pathway (of least resistance) along the top of the housing where water can flow while coming into minimal contact with the DI resin.

    You’ll note that the output from the DI housing is at the center of the end of the housing. Depending upon how your system is configured, RO water may enter the DI housing in port, fill up the housing until the water level reaches the out port (i.e., fill up the bottom half of housing), and then exit the DI housing. Your RO water has been in contact only with half the resin in the housing.

    So what to do? Unclip that DI housing and orient it vertically with bottom-up flow.

    If you get into a mode where you are looking to upgrade that system, a pressure gauge might be a good place to start.

    Russ

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    Insightful Reefer FishFinder's Avatar
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    I am sorry to have to bring this thread back to life, but my membrane exhausted a couple of days ago and I purchased a replacement at my LFS. It appears this company AquaSafeCanada is no longer in business. When you go to their web site it only shows a picture of the unit and I can't seem find the manual to safe my life!

    I was able to install the membrane without any problems, but the gentleman at my LGS said you should always leave the waste water wide open. I have never been able to do this! If I leave it wide open all the water goes out as waste. No DI water comes out at all. Not a drop! My LFS store person attributes this to me not having enough pressure. Unfortunately I don't have a pressure meter so I honestly don't if this is the problem or not. I checked my plumbing in my water room and the pressure coming from outside is wide open. I honestly don’t think this is the problem since the waste water jets out w/p any issues.

    I was using the unit for about 1 year with the waste water turned down about half way and have not noticed any ill effects on my RO/DI water or mixing salt. I did purchase a TDS meter a few weeks ago and found that the membrane needed to be replaced.

    The other question I have is related to the pressure valve. You noted that this unit can be adjusted. I don't see any way to do this. Can you explain this further, or is it pretty much WYSIWYG?

    If anyone has a manual for this thing or clearer instructions, please email them to theaquaticdomain@nc.rr.com.

    Thanks!

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    Sounds like you need a pressure gauge add on kit. They are vrey inexpensive and easy to install. You won't know if you have enough pressure unless you check it.

    What is the capacity of the membrane you just installed?
    You should see a three digit number on the flow restrictor - if you'll tell us what that is we can check to see if you have the correct flow restrictor installed.

    Russ

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    Insightful Reefer FishFinder's Avatar
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    Flow Restrictor

    Thanks for the response.

    It's a OSMONTICS DESAL Brand Membrane. TFM-36, 36 Gallons per Day.

    I have a couple things on the unit that controls the flow.

    This controls the flow to the waste water


    The blue knob controls the flow from the tap water into the unit. I currently have it opened all the way.




    The pressure valve looks like it is hooked up okay based on the instructions I found last night on my computer.

    Do I need to adjust to blue knob? Could the water be coming into the unit too fast?

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    In typical residential situations, it is VERY unlikely you have too much pressure/flow coming to the system (but you won't know for sure w/o a pressue gauge).

    You have an adjustable flow restrictor. Line up 8 identical drinking water glases/coffee mugs in front of the system. GEt your waste water tube in one hand and the purified water tube in the other. Adjust the adjustable flow restrictor so that in the time it takes you to fill up one glass with purified water, you've filled up about 4 with waste water.

    You have a very low capacity membrane, so even under ideal conditions you are not going to get much production out of it.

    Russ
    Last edited by BuckeyeFieldSupply; 04-25-2009 at 01:15 PM.

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    Insightful Reefer FishFinder's Avatar
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    Russ,

    I'll stop by HD or Lowes to see if they have one. I really didn't want this particular membrane. I had a 100 GPD membrane before so this is a big step down. I may look into getting a larger membrane and I will definetly purchase a pressure gauge and a booster pump. Hopefully that will help me get more out of the system.

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