rroselavy's 55g

[rroselavy]

Hey all-

I finally decided to start a build thread on my new 55g tank. I'm pretty excited about this one, and pulled out a few stops when taking the plunge. This also makes me a bit nervous, because I can already feel the pressure to make something remarkable since a) I dumped a good chunk of change already, and b) I purchased a "turnkey" system that requires very little DIY. I'm going to have to earn some respect some other way...

First off, I would like to thank Rob, the TR staff and members for providing such a great resource and cultivating a supportive community. I would not have nearly as much confidence and knowledge without the encouraging backup.

The Tank

ELOS System 70
ELOS SUMP 400 Marine
ELOS NS 500 Skimmer w. Eheim 1250 pump.
ELOS SQUARE stand.
ELOS Osmocontroller II
Eheim 1260 Return Pump
Ecotech Marine Vortech MP40 powerhead
PFO Solaris G series 24" LED fixture.
2x 150w Visitherm Stealth Heaters


The Goal

Up until this point, I have maintained a 24g Nanocube FOWLR tank. Like many beginners, I was nervous about keeping corals after reading (over and over) that water conditions must be more stable and nutrient poor than maintaining a tank with a few hardy fish. In retrospect, I fully agree with the "corals first" philosophy, since fish tend to muck up the water pretty fast. Now my nano seems stuck in a nitrate-laden state (~10ppm), most probably due insufficient flow, crowded aquascaping, and lack of refugium and/or DSB.

With that said, I have learned a great deal over the past year and one half about tank maintenance, ecosystems and poor tank design. This tank upgrade will hopefully satisfy the following goals:

1) Larger water volume - The System 70 DT holds about 48g to the overflow line. The sump I would estimate at 15g. With a DSB and 64# LR, I estimate that the system has almost 48g total water volume. This is nearly 3 times the water of my 24g.

2) Much better circulation - In a nanocube, the LR is often piled up against the back, or is crowding the sides. It is very difficult to get an interesting aquascape when trying to allow for good water flow all around the rock. The System 70 is much longer and wider, which alleviates this limitation. I also wanted to utilize wide-stream powehead(s), to help prevent laminar current.

3) Better lighting - The nano came with 72w of PC lighting, which is fine for FOWLR and perhaps a few softies, but not enough for a full-blown mixed reef tank. AIO Nanos are also prone to overheating when there is sufficient lighting, due to the enclosed lid with insufficient ventilation.

4) Simple damnit - I am not a fan of power cords or plumbing tangles. Every decision I make about what to include takes into consideration the added gain/convenience versus complexity of appearance and maintenance. I want to make sure reefkeeping is enjoyable and that the system have as few points of failure as possible. I also wanted to keep water changes at or below 5g per week.

5) Denitrification - AIO Nanos allow very little room to facilitate the processing of nitrates into nitrous oxide. I hope to utilize an effective DSB and a macro-algae refugium in the new tank.

6) Coral Husbandry - More than anything, my main goal with this tank is to support a thriving environment for corals. I will probably start with the more hardy corals, such as Mushrooms, Ricordea and some other soft corals, and later expand into some stony branching corals. I seem to be attracted to color and movement, which probably labels me as a total .

---

Enough intro. Here's a few pictures of the cycling tank. I have been experimenting with flow rate from the Vortech pump, which can create major troughs in the sand with its wide flow (depending on speed and placement). The pictures show nearly 105# of 0.2mm<->1.2mm aragonite sand. After some initial settling, I added another 15# to bring the substrate to a 4" depth. I also have some adjustments to make on the Solaris light fixture mount. The tank has been cycling for almost 1 week.

[Shark Of Sweden]

Cool!! But isn&#180;t the light a little too purple?

[rroselavy]

Cool!! But isn´t the light a little too purple?

Thanks. I took the picture thinking that the color balance was pretty close to what was seeing, but I have never had a "20k" equivalent fixture before. The fixture is currently at its default factory settings:

100% Day White
100% Day Blue
100% Lunar White - these look greenish compared to the lunar blue.
100% Lunar Blue

I will double check the color balance of the photos when I get home.

-Scott

[Shark Of Sweden]

oki:-) looking forward 2 see more pics:-)

[rroselavy]

I chose two very large (35#, 25#) pieces of live rock for the main display. The LFS had the rock curing for about a week. The rock was fairly clean, with some evidence of dead macro and micro algae, as well as encrusted mussels, coraline and some brown spots that reminded me of brown wafer algae. I had the LR in a heated and circulating plastic brute pail for almost 3 weeks before placing it into the DT. I tested several times, recording at first the presence of a small bit of Ammonia but a huge nitrite spike, then later ammonia and nitrite settling to zero, with Nitrates around 5ppm.

Now that I have had the LR in the main display for a week, my tests are about the same (0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5ppm Nitrate.) I have never had a DSB before, and I assume I am going to wait 4-6 weeks for this tank to settle in, but I am wondering if there is not enough putrefaction in this tank to start things off.

I have read Eric Borneman post that he likes to "feed" his tanks during the intial cycle, and I recall the oft mentioned rotting table shrimp nod in this forum - which probably amount to the same thing. Should I do the same, or just let the mostly cured LR do its thing?

Thanks,

-Scott

[rroselavy]

Cool!! But isn&#180;t the light a little too purple?

LOL. I think I figured it out. I was looking at my other photos and realized that the sun was probably reflecting off a bright orange barrier fencing that we have outside for our deck repair! You can see the fence in the following photograph, as well as some splash of the orange light on the doorway molding and fixture. This is why the light and shadows of the right end of the tank are more purple than the left hand edge...

[Danamck]

Absolutely gorgeous. The first time I saw an ELOS tank i was stunned. They ooze quality. I like what you've done and look forward to many more posts!

[john0087]

I chose two very large (35#, 25#) pieces of live rock for the main display. The LFS had the rock curing for about a week. The rock was fairly clean, with some evidence of dead macro and micro algae, as well as encrusted mussels, coraline and some brown spots that reminded me of brown wafer algae. I had the LR in a heated and circulating plastic brute pail for almost 3 weeks before placing it into the DT. I tested several times, recording at first the presence of a small bit of Ammonia but a huge nitrite spike, then later ammonia and nitrite settling to zero, with Nitrates around 5ppm.

Now that I have had the LR in the main display for a week, my tests are about the same (0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5ppm Nitrate.) I have never had a DSB before, and I assume I am going to wait 4-6 weeks for this tank to settle in, but I am wondering if there is not enough putrefaction in this tank to start things off.

I have read Eric Borneman post that he likes to "feed" his tanks during the intial cycle, and I recall the oft mentioned rotting table shrimp nod in this forum - which probably amount to the same thing. Should I do the same, or just let the mostly cured LR do its thing?

Thanks,

-Scott

Scott,

Great looking system. I love the look of the tank as well as with two large pieces of LR instead of a lot of little pieces piled up on each other. When i set up my new 60g, i was lucky enough to find 2 larger pieces to add to my collection, but the were 20# and 15#, but they are the centerpiece of my liverock work.

I have used the dead shrimp method of cycling a tank. I think that if in another week or so, your ammonia is still at 0, I would add one hole, raw shimp to get the ammonia prodcution started. If you see the spike, then probably no need, but after one week, I would think that you would start to see some ammonia in the system.

Good luck! Look forward to seeing the progress.

John

[rroselavy]

Danamck & John-

Thanks for the compliments. I hope my husbandry will do the tank justice.

When i set up my new 60g, i was lucky enough to find 2 larger pieces to add to my collection, but the were 20# and 15#, but they are the centerpiece of my liverock work.

I found the two pieces of Marshall Island LR at Vivid Aquariums, the one LFS I prefer in the area. Their LR prices were more than I remember, and perhaps more than they should be considering LA is probably the import capital of LR for the country. Never the less, I was really happy with the pieces and was willing to commit.

I really like the less complicated look of a few monolithic pieces, but I quietly panic a bit when I suspect that many corals for purchase already come mounted on rock. Incorporating those rocks may be a bit challenging. I assume that small frags are less of an issue.

Also, if I ever had to move this tank when it is well occupied by corals, it would be far more complicated if the corals are all mounted on a single huge rock.

Any guidance/suggestions?

[rroselavy]

Absolutely gorgeous. The first time I saw an ELOS tank i was stunned. They ooze quality. I like what you've done and look forward to many more posts!

Thanks again. ELOS tanks are nice, and I like the sump and skimmer as well. Solid build, and minimal fuss. The stand is great for a MDF style knock-down variety, but I was very close to building a new custom stand to accommodate some ideas...

During the cycle I will attempt to post an objective overview/first impressions of my sump & stand, followed by the Vortech and Solaris.

-Scott

[CarmieJo]

Scott, your tank is beautiful.

[Amphibious]

Hey Scott,

Love the Elos tank. While I love a variety of sizes when it comes to LR, I also like a few large pieces. I was in Hawaii a few years ago and found a large beautiful piece of coral rock 3/4's buried in the sand on a beach. The end sticking out was intriguing so, I dug it out. It was a really cool piece. So cool, I spent $45 to ship it home. I know about paying for just the right rock. Yours are beautiful. Nice light, too.

Dick

[rroselavy]

Thanks Carmie and Dick for the kind words,

And also thank Dick for the fantastic Solaris G, which I purchased through him at the best price I have seen. Dick's customer service is also outstanding.

Speaking of the light, I am having one problem. Any time I have the light on, it seems to trip my plug-in 15 amp GFCI. It usually happens well after I turn it on, but sometimes as soon as I turn it on. All my electrical equipment is completely bone dry, so I don't know why this is happening. I thought it may have something to do with a UPS I was using, but I have bypassed that and I am still having the problem.

I had a similar problem with my nano a while back, and the problem seemed to happen when I was using a particular timer I had purchased. I replaced the timer, and everything was fine. This setup is a totally different outlet, GFCI, and equipment.

For now, I may try getting a second plug-in 15A GFCI just to run the fixture on. This way, if the light causes a false trip, at least it doesn't cut power to the rest of the setup.

-Scott

[rroselavy]

I was in Hawaii a few years ago and found a large beautiful piece of coral rock 3/4's buried in the sand on a beach. The end sticking out was intriguing so, I dug it out. It was a really cool piece. So cool, I spent $45 to ship it home.

Isn't there a Hawaiian God (of Tourism) who curses those who plunder the islands?

[Pescaiolo]

Wow! I'm stunned! Awesome tank! I can't wait to see what kind of creatures you put in it!

[rroselavy]

When I transferred the LR from the 44g Brute container it was cycling in, I noticed a large amount of debris on the bottom. Lightly sifting through it, I found a hitchhiker I was already familiar with from my nano - a Peanut Worm (Sipuncula). He had escaped his burrow in the LR, but he still looked viable - so I placed him on top of the LR in the DT, hoping that he would find a new hole to inhabit. The next day he was gone, so I assume he succeeded.

What I discovered a few days later was another familiar sight, Peanut Worm poop on my substrate. The interesting thing is that the poop, elongated tube-shaped rods, are all over the tank - settling into loose piles. There were varied sizes as well, most being extremely thin (much thinner than I have ever seen in my nano), and some medium thick (nothing compared to the 3-4 veterans I have in my nano). The shear number of thin poops lead me to believe that I have a potentialy large number of young Sipuncula in this new tank... which I am quite happy to see. The leaving piles are also helpful in showing me the potential "dead spots" in my tank.

When I returned home last night, I looked into the dark tank and discovered 3 tiny Peanut worms inhabiting the same 3/4" nub of LR! I hope they are good neighbors...

Here's a picture of one of several "collecting sites" of Sipuncula feces in my tank.

[rroselavy]

Wow! I'm stunned! Awesome tank! I can't wait to see what kind of creatures you put in it!

Thanks Clarence,

Like I said earlier, I like color and movement. If it doesn't move, it better be colorful...

Seriously, my focus this time will be on corals. I have no experience keeping corals, but I am trying to do ample research into hardy, colorful corals. Lots of my inspiration is based on looking at and reading about other people's tanks. The internet is a godsend for this research.

Nothing is for sure, except going slowly and doing ample research. Possibles (pending more research) include:

A variety of Mushrooms and Ricordea
Purple Tip Frogspawn (Euphyllia paradivisa) - Aggressive I've read
Green Wall Hammer Coral (Euphyllia ancora) - Also aggressive...
Lord Acanthastrea
Blastomussa
Fungia Plate Coral
Fluorescent Green Star Polyps

I really like colorful Zoanthids as well, but I am currently researching the toxicity of corals. My wife and I are not that fond of having potent neurotoxins in proximity to my young children.

As far as branching stony coral are concerned, the following species have caught my eye:

Superman Encrusting Montipora (montipora tuberculosa)
Vivid Green Stylophora (Stylophora pistillata)
Green Tip Birdsnest Coral
More colorful Acropora species (such as Acropora Tortuosa)

---

As far as fish are concerned, I'd like to keep them small, sparse and reef safe. I have a few fish and critters that will come from the old tank (including Ocellaris Clown & Spotted Cardinal). I have a thing for Sixline Wrasses and Longnose Hawkfish, and my daughter wants a star (the spotted Linckia being he only one that I have read doesn't routinely starve to death in captivity and is reef safe). Lastly, I think Tuxedo and Black Long Spine urchins are really neat, and my wife thinks Clams are rad...but I do not know enough about either yet...

Oh, and did I mention that I love critters...

[rroselavy]

Nothing is for sure, except going slowly and doing ample research. Possibles (pending more research) include:
...
Green Wall Hammer Coral (Euphyllia ancora) - Also aggressive...
...

I've just been reading about the toxicity of Hammer corals, which may rule them out as well...

[rroselavy]

Temp 78.0
pH 8.48
SG 1.026

NH3/NH4 - 0 (Same)
NO2 - 0 (Same)
NO3 - 5 (Same)
PO4 - 0 (Same)

Alk - "High" (This Red Sea test kit to be replaced with one that measures in units of dKH)
Ca - 390 (First test)

100% Reef Crystals Mix. (702 grams/5 gallons)

[john0087]

I've just been reading about the toxicity of Hammer corals, which may rule them out as well...

That's too bad about the hammer as they are one of my favorites, though i understand your concerns. i have read that some human can have an alergic reaction to the sting of the hammer, but mostly the toxicity of the coral is more in conjunction to its relationship with ohter corals in teh tank.

Anyways, looking forward to seeing the progression of your tank.

[Amphibious]

Thanks Carmie and Dick for the kind words,

And also thank Dick for the fantastic Solaris G, which I purchased through him at the best price I have seen. Dick's customer service is also outstanding.

Speaking of the light, I am having one problem. Any time I have the light on, it seems to trip my plug-in 15 amp GFCI. It usually happens well after I turn it on, but sometimes as soon as I turn it on. All my electrical equipment is completely bone dry, so I don't know why this is happening. I thought it may have something to do with a UPS I was using, but I have bypassed that and I am still having the problem.

I had a similar problem with my nano a while back, and the problem seemed to happen when I was using a particular timer I had purchased. I replaced the timer, and everything was fine. This setup is a totally different outlet, GFCI, and equipment.

For now, I may try getting a second plug-in 15A GFCI just to run the fixture on. This way, if the light causes a false trip, at least it doesn't cut power to the rest of the setup.

-Scott

Thanks for the kind words, Scott. We try our best to be the best in customer service and satisfaction.

About your light problem. Call PFO - 800 577-9690 ext 17, you will reach Carla, my PFO Rep. Explain the problem you are having and she will probably put you through to Pat.

Isn't there a Hawaiian God (of Tourism) who curses those who plunder the islands?

Yes, the Hawaiian god of Tourism turned out to be a woman and I wined, dined and wooed her so she let me plunder that rock.

Dick

[rroselavy]

That's too bad about the hammer as they are one of my favorites, though i understand your concerns. i have read that some human can have an alergic reaction to the sting of the hammer, but mostly the toxicity of the coral is more in conjunction to its relationship with ohter corals in teh tank.

I haven't ruled out the hammer, I'm just weighing precautions. Two more concerns:

Borneman suggests in Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History that Euphyllia may be over-harvested, indicating that Euphyllia as a group represent a significantly larger percentage of imported corals than the numbers found in nature.

Borneman also mentions that E. Ancora may reproduce by releasing its sweeper tips. The tips stick to a variety of surfaces, and may generate into a new colony. The released tips can also cause problems by harming organisms that they touch...

[Pescaiolo]

Yes they are toxic but most of the time unless you have an allergic reaction to their touch or an open wound they won't harm you. They only release these toxins when they are warring with other corals. Better to be safe than sorry I guess. My significant other has also expressed these concerns when we have children one day. I have a simple solution for this, keep the tank out of their reach and when they do get old enough to be able to stick their hands in the tank, educate them about the animals and what they are capable of. You might get a nice little helper one day to do water changes with you or better yet for you!

[john0087]

I haven't ruled out the hammer, I'm just weighing precautions. Two more concerns:

Borneman suggests in Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History that Euphyllia may be over-harvested, indicating that Euphyllia as a group represent a significantly larger percentage of imported corals than the numbers found in nature.

Borneman also mentions that E. Ancora may reproduce by releasing its sweeper tips. The tips stick to a variety of surfaces, and may generate into a new colony. The released tips can also cause problems by harming organisms that they touch...

Do you own/recomed that coral book. I have been looking for agood book on corals.

I agree that propogated corals are the way to go. Vivid has a lot of smaller LPS corals like the Anchor. i am not certain if they are frag'd or not, but you may want to ask them. I know it is possible to propogate LPS, though a bit had.

John

[rroselavy]

Do you own/recommend that coral book. I have been looking for agood book on corals.

I get the impression that Aquarium Corals is considered a seminal work. I am reading it now. Apart from an introduction to corals and a review of the Families, Genera and Species, there are chapters on Husbandry, Water Chemistry, Care & Handling and Diseases. It is an encompassing reference. Don't just take my word for it; there are 44 reviews on Amazon, virtually all with a 5 star rating.

Sprung & Delbeek's The Reef Aquarium series (Vol 1&2) may be more exhaustive (go into more detail), but has not been impervious to reader scrutiny. I have Vol 3 of that series which is very impressive, but is about the science and construction of reef biotopes, not its inhabitants. I am certain that I will someday pick up Vol 1 and 2 as well.

I agree that propogated corals are the way to go. Vivid has a lot of smaller LPS corals like the Anchor. i am not certain if they are frag'd or not, but you may want to ask them. I know it is possible to propogate LPS, though a bit hard.

Good idea - I will ask.

-S