Overflow Box

[JoshLongton]

Hey guys. Long time. Sorry I have not been on in a while. Life. All work and no play this year. If I am not at my job, I am splitting firewood for heat this winter.

Well enough of that. LMAO.

I just set up my new overflow box. and have a question. The pump I bought is a Supreme Classic General Purpose Utility Pump. And this pump run quiet and really good. And here is a link.
Pump: http://www.aquacave.com/mag-drive-3-...pump-1602.html
Overflow Box: http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CDAQ8wIwAg#
The overflow box is the PF-300. The picture in the link is now the box I have.

Now the only slight problem I see is, the box and the pump are eavenly matched. Couldn't have done it any better. Now onto the problem. LOL

How do I use the tank on the bottom to fill the top tank, if the they are running the same speed?

Thanks

[CarmieJo]

By the tank on the bottom do you mean the sump? If so the water will overflow from the display into the sump. You pump the water back up from the sump to the display and it just keeps overflowing. You should have enough room in the sump that when the pump is turned off the sump can take the water that continues to overflow until the siphon is broken.

[JoshLongton]

Right I understand that CarmieJo. But my question was how do I use the sump tank to refill the main tank when there is water evaporation, instead of pouring fresh water into the main tank. And I guess I didn't make it that clear. So I am sorry.

[PapaMcEuin]

Just a little confused but Carmie is right. The pump takes water from the sump and puts it in the display tank. The siphon overflow just works like a dam and moves the water "downstream". For this one, you need to establish the siphon first (in case you have set it up backwards so the pump pulls water from the DT to the sump through the overflow). Instead of trying 10 times to get enough water and not air to break the siphon, here is a tip I do to “prime” the siphon tubes. To establish the siphon, you need to first fill the small reservoir on the back of the overflow with water to hold the pressure. You then need to fill the U tubes with water and invert back into the overflow. I have found it good to fill with water, cover both sides of the U tube with saran wrap to trap the water in then turn over and place in overflow box and back reservoir. Then gently pull the saran wrap off each side. If your saran wrap brand is too tacky then cut a couple of zip lock bags to work or use the fish bags the LFS give you your critters in. Anyway, once you have both tubes in position mostly filled with water and the pump set up to push water into the tank from the sump, it should work nice and easy. I have the 1 U siphon model set up with a Mag3 pump. The main point is that the pump does not push more water than the overflow can handle or you will overflow the tank. On that note, the U siphon tubes do from time to time get algae build up that will reduce their flow rate and result in more water pushed to the DT than to the sump. Even with the high flow, it is caused by the close distance to the light fixtures. You have to keep an eye on that and clean them from time to time.

[PapaMcEuin]

Was typing my response while you responded to Carmie. Basically you need to turn off the pump and let it stabilize via reverse siphon through the pump. Once that has stabilized, you can fill the water in the sump to about 1 to 1.5 inches of the top or whatever you are comfortable with based on the design requirements of the sump (minimum fill for internal baffles and maximum fill for reverse flow). Once you have that top level established then turn it back on and let it stabilize again. Once it stabilizes then mark the water level as the maximum running level. Do not fill water over that level. So at the next water change with right salinity levels, then make sure you are at that line with salt water. As it evaporates, then the level in the sump will lower, not the display. Just fill in RODI water until you reach the max level line you drew on the sump. When you do that, you should be able to test and find that your salinity is correct.

[JoshLongton]

ok. Thanks guys. I understand now

[JoshLongton]

Since we are on the subject. Found a slight problem this morning, I didnt relize would happen. How do I stop the overflow box from sucking up all the food I put in the tank? And how do I do this, without breaking the flow of water ever time?

[PapaMcEuin]

You don't. I stop the water flow every feeding which is why it is important to make sure you have a balance. Also, depending on the height of the in flow outlet, you will likely drill a hole just below the DT water level in the inlet pipe so it will break the reverse siphon as soon as possible.

[JoshLongton]

Thanks Papa

[CarmieJo]

I turn my pumps off when I feed too. When topping off I drip kalk into my sump. If just adding water I find it easier to pour it into the display.

[PapaMcEuin]

The main point of filling the sump is to lower the impact to the DT, some mixing and water temp issues can be avoided this way but in the end, it will end up being what is most convenient to you in balance of work and stability. When I do water changes, I completely drain the sump and let it warm up to the heater for a bit before starting to mix with the DT, but not for that long since I don't want the DT to heat up too much with the lights. I keep my tank at about 78-80 and the house at 75 day and 68 night so water mixed and ready for the tank is a bit colder. But, now that I am setting up a 13 Gal trashcan to prep my own RODI, I may take my older heaters and set them to keep the water warm until ready to use.