Hi all, I was mistakenly posting in the blog section my questions, planning to use the blog for when I get my reef aquarium. On my supplies/ additives list I put a buffer for my aquarium. I was told not to buy it and, plan to take that advice, but I was wondering how my Aquarium was going to maintain proper ph levels. If anyone could answer my question I'd be grateful.
Thanks
God Bless
David P. A.K.A small-town-reefer
Hi David, to TR!
I never use buffer.
Carmie
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small-town-reefer (04-03-2010)
You don’t need a “buffer” per-sey. You will want to begin using a 2-part additive or some other way to add Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium. Three elements that will be used up in your system through the metabolic process of your animals. Those chemicals take care of your buffering. No need to buy a separate buffer and it’s a mistake to try to adjust your pH by adding a separate buffer because of a complex chemical reaction that takes place involving the Alkalinity level in your system. Here’s an article that should help you out.
CHEMISTRY AND THE AQUARIUM by RANDY HOLMES-FARLEY
Amphibious
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small-town-reefer (04-03-2010)
Thank you to all who answered my question. I didn't fully understand about ph and that helped! So I'll just plan on keeping levels of cal. magnesium, and alkalinity in proper proportions instead of using buffers and making problems. Also, if I want to seed some sand from walmart or lowes that isn't live with live sand, is there a particular grade to look for, or something else?
Thanks for helping out a in salt water
God Bless
David P. A.K.A small-town-reefer
I would recommend using dry aragonite sand. It will cost you more than silica sand from Walmart but it will help keep your tank stable. You don't need to buy live sand in a bag, your live rock (LR) will seed it just find. If you have a friend who keeps saltwater fish tanks you can borrow a cup of sand from them to increase diversity in your tank.
If you don't mind my asking, where are you in OH? I grew up in Stark County (in the country south of Canton) and lived in Columbus for the 4 years I went to OSU. We've been in NC though since '85.
Carmie
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Thanks Carmie! I'll keep that in mind when doing the sand in my aquarium. I live in scioto county. Right along the Ohio river. I will see if there is a reef community in my town, and where they meet.
Hi David, I agree with Carmie on getting aragonite sand it will help reduce nitrates. I am also glad you found the info you were looking for.
Ray or Raymond
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Thanks Rayme.
I don't know anyone around there who has a tank running right now. I love that part of OH and the drive along the river. My college roomie lives in Oak Hill, by Lake Jackson.
Carmie
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It is kinda of scenic (hope I spelled that right) . Why is there never any more talking reef podcasts (at least on iTunes)? They just stop about July last year? Is there a new website you have to get them on, on the live episodes it mentions a chat room, I don't know if I am missing something or not.
Thanks
David P. A.K.A small-town-reefer
No, that is all there are for now.
Carmie
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Oh ok, so back to ph, what should I use to keep alk. in check, I read most of the article that Amphibious posted and now know that I need to keep magnesium at 1300 ish. calcium at 380-450 pp, and alkalinity at 2.5-4 meq/l. So if I am adding calcium to my system, putting in magnesium when necessary, what do I use to keep the alkalinity in range? What is it that you use with the best results?
Thanks
God Bless
David P. A.K.A small-town-reefer
As I was planning for my refugium, which I want to grow algae, and copepods in, and I plan to have a DSB, for maximum efficiency of nitrite removal (maby nitrate too, not sure) and phosphate removal, and copepod production, along with algae production (for herbivore fish), do I want to have a medium flow rate into it (the refuge is about 29gal.) or a slower one. On live aquaria.com it says to provide strong water flow for the cheato, but that would kick up the sand in my fuge, I also don't know if it will hurt the copepods. So what do you guys say? I plan for the fuge to be lower than the tank w/ the pumps about 2" below the waterline in the display tank (for flow out to fuge) and the same in the fuge for flow out to display tank in case of power outage, so that gravity does not make all of the water in my display tank overflow my fuge and then run onto the carpet, after that 2" is gone it will stop flowing, just thought I would add that in there.
Thanks
God Bless
David P. A.K.A small-town-reefer
The bacteria on your LS and LR will take care of removing the nitrite and ammonia. A DSB will convert nitrate to harmless nitrogen gas but doesn't do any phosphate removal that I am aware of. Macro will take up nitrate and phosphate. Dripping kalk precipitates phosphate and lets your skimmer take it out. Probably feeding unrinsed frozen food adds the most phosphate to the typical tank.
Carmie
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Thank you CarmieJo! would you guys be able to help me out on this new matter that has arose? I have seen kalk on fish sites, but what do you use to keep alkalinity in check, for example if I add kalk to my system for calcium, after so much my alkalinity would fall I think. So what product do you use for alkalinity with the best results? Sorry one more question, do I have to drip the kalk, or could I just add it into the top off water that I put into my tank?
Thanks A lot!
God Bless
David P. A.K.A small-town-reefer
So I just answered my own question! Sorry for your time wasted reading that. I found on fostersmithaquatics.com A two part additive 1 for cal. and one for alkalinity. But in doing so there was a chart at the bottom, on it was temperatures of reefs along with FO, and home (aquarium) coral reefs. At the temp. section it said 82*F but on the reef section it said 72-78( I believe ) *F (*=degrees). Normally I would not have considered keeping my tank at 82*F but some people do, so is it a good idea to? I know that it speeds up the metabolism of the animals in the aquarium.
Thanks
God Bless
David P. A.K.A small-town-reefer
I would say that 82 is getting pretty high well at least for me. I tend to keep my temp between 78-80 and everything in my tank is perfectly fine and very active. The 2 part additive from fosterandsmith.com is ok, but what I use and have been using since I started my tank is the oceans blend 2 part additive from our TR sponsor theculturedreef.com and has done wonders for me. I have seen growth in my corals quite a bit since using it and my calcium, ph, and alk have been stable at where it is supposed to be. Plus he has a great price for it too with shipping included no hidden charges. I would take a look at it, here is a link: http://www.theculturedreef.com/additives.htm. But always remember to test anything that you want to add to your tank before you add it. It is never good to dose before checking your parameters because you may not need it and you may overdose.
Ray or Raymond
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small-town-reefer (04-07-2010)
Actually, kalk is different than 2 part. You can use 2 part to adjust or maintain Ca and alk but you use kalk only to maintain Ca and alk once they are where you want them and are balanced.
I run my tanks at 79-80. I don't think that 82 will hurt anything but if you ran you tank that warm all the time you would have less upward leeway if something went wrong.
Carmie
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rayme07 (04-06-2010), small-town-reefer (04-07-2010)
Thank you guys! so I preferably won't keep the temperature in the 80's but more 78 degrees. On to the two part additives, is it ok just to use the 2 part and no kalk? Or do I have to have kalk. Thank you for bearing with me, I hope I am not becoming tiresome with all of my questions.
Thank You guys a lot for your help!
God Bless
David
David P. A.K.A small-town-reefer
David, it is fine to do either. I use Ocean's Blend in the nano and drip kalk in the 54 where there is higher demand.
Carmie
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