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Thread: what size RO DI should I get.

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    Insightful Reefer highdesertreef's Avatar
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    what size RO DI should I get.

    I am sick and tired of buying my RO water. I want to get a RO filter. I only have a 35 gallon tank. What output should I get. I need the ability to produce enough for storage for water changes, and top off. I like to make up about 25 gallons of saltwater and store it for at least 2-3 days before water changes. The only inhabitants of the tank are: 9-10 assorted snails, 1 maybe 2 zoa colonies ( the second hasn't opened for awhile but isn't smelling so not sure if they are dead or not), 4 or so zebra hermits, and 1 P.J. Cardinal. I am looking at a 75 G.P.D. system, would that be enough.
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    Grand Master Reefer saltaddict's Avatar
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    Realistically you could do a 25gph unit and be more than fine but I would personally go bigger as you may not have a 35g tank forever. I would over plan as buying another unit in a year or so would defeat the purpose of saving money.
    I would go for a 75gpd-100gpd.

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    Grand Master Reefer Amphibious's Avatar
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    Saltaddict is correct. Go for the 75 gpd your thinking of. I recently learned from Buckeye Supply that the 75 gpd has a higher rejection rate that the 100 gpd. That’s an advantage over a few more gpd. The cost difference is minimal. Don’t pay more than about $150 plus shipping. Check around, pricing can run up to $300 or more. You don’t get more by paying more. All the components are made by one or two manufacturers and assembled by others who stick their label on and set the price.
    Amphibious

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    Grand Master Reefer saltaddict's Avatar
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    Buckeye is where I bought my system!! Love them.

    Mine is a 75gpd RO/DI Reef Residential system with add of chloramine and fluoride filters.

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    Grand Master Reefer Seahorsedreams's Avatar
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    It depends on the amount of time you want to wait on water, IMO. In an hour, in optimum conditions, you'll make 3.1 gallons. Now me, on the other hand, with my new 300gpd, can make a whopping 12.5 :-)
    Renee

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    Grand Master Reefer saltaddict's Avatar
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    Wow Renee - that is great output. I do hate waiting for water but I would certainly have a kitchen full of water at that rate as I would surely run it over!!

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    Insightful Reefer Rostr02's Avatar
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    I am getting ready to get a 1:1 system from Russ at buckeye. He is a great guy and his prices are very reasonable as well. Check them out.

    http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com

    Bob

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    Grand Master Reefer saltaddict's Avatar
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    Yep Bob, Russ is great and will answer any and all questions no matter how dumb you think they are.

    I am curious, if you wanted to upgrade a system to changed the output per day do you just upgrade the RO unit? It seems logical but that certainly doesn't mean it is right.

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    Grand Master Reefer CarmieJo's Avatar
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    Carmie


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    Apprentice
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    Hi guys.

    To upgrade the production on an existing RODI system, you'd just need to change the RO membrane from say a 50 gpd membrane to a 75 gpd membrane, and install a new flow restrrictor matched to the new membrane capacity. The flow restrictor is a small partial plug that goes in the waste water line - it will take all of about 30 seconds to change.

    Russ

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    Master Reefer laurabolyard's Avatar
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    ok, Russ... So glad to find this, AND your article!! upgrading from a 55 to a 125 and will NO LONGER drive water home! I want to order an RODI from you tomorrow. It will pay for half just having it for the first tank fill! I want to be sure to get the right one. I will be using well water.
    Thanx, Laura
    wow, time to update!!

    125 gl reef
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  12. #12
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    Hi Laura. Having well water doesn't necessarily say anything specific about the water quality. Issues we sometimes see with well water include low pressure, high sediment loads, hardness, and issues with high iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide. But typically well water doesn't have these issues to an extent that causes issues with using an RODI.

    Do you have a softener?

    With your aquarium size, a 75 gpd system with ample unpressurized storage (like a Brute trash can) should work fine.

    Have you thought about how you're going to tap into your home's plumbing to supply water to the system? And what are you thinking about doing with the DI water produced by the system - are you going to run it to a float valve in a storage container?

    Russ

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    Insightful Reefer AZDesertRat's Avatar
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    Is that a private domestic well? if so what are your pressure switch settings for starting and stopping the well or booster pump?
    Often domestic systems run in the 30-40 psi range which is suficient for household use but low for a RO membrane. You may require a small RO booster pump too.

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    Master Reefer laurabolyard's Avatar
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    private domestic well hooked up to the sprinkler system only. I was hoping to attach a hose between the well pump and the rodi. Would like it to fill a plastic garbage can and would like to have a float. I do not have a softner as its only used for the lawn. I will have to check on the psi for the well pump, but I know its quite high. I wouldnt always have to use the well water, but for initial tank set up/waste water, I think its a good idea. As far as shut off, I dont know how that would work from the well, does the float shut it off? also wondering about tds meter.
    wow, time to update!!

    125 gl reef
    37 gl sump/fuge
    3x250 20k radiums
    dual uverflows
    Most people have skeletons in their closet, mine are in my sump!

  15. #15
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    Laura - float valve stops the flow of purified water, and an automatic shut off valve stops the flow of waste water.

    Russ

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    Insightful Reefer AZDesertRat's Avatar
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    Using your well may not be the most economical choice. Consider the water quality which may not be as good as the tap or city water supply and would exhaust filters and DI resins quicker, the cost of electricity to run the well pump and the cycling on and off it will cause since your captive air or pressure tank is probably in the 80 gallon or smaller size if its like most systems. Then the pressure switch setting of the well pump may not be sufficient to operate the RO/DI properly.

    On the flip side the tap water is probably better quality so longer filter life and lower cost to operate, no additional electric charge and your water rates are probably such that it ends up costing about a nickel per gallon or less, if you have your own septic system probably considerably less.

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