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Thread: Lighting for a 35 gallon hex tank

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    Curious Reefer
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    Lightbulb Lighting for a 35 gallon hex tank

    I havea 35 gallon hex tank and im using a flourecent bulb that is 10000k which is supposed to mimic blue sky but its only 18 watt. Is this enough light for my critters? i have 4 damsels a clown an anemone and a shrimp. the live rock appears to be groing coraline at a steady rate. also i have an led moonlight is this good enough or should i swich to something else? im just not sure what kind of lighting that i should be using. i would like to eventually go to mh bulbs but its not really an option with the tank location since they get so hot. if there is any more info i can provide to help with this topic just let me know.

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    Grand Master Reefer Amphibious's Avatar
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    Hey Ben, welcome to TR forum, a place for straight talk on reef questions.

    Depending on the width of your hex tank, you should look for lighting much more powerful than the one you have. Either, Power Compacts, or T5s. There’s a new LED fixture out by Ecoxotic that might work for you too. I’m going to assume the light you have came with the tank. I have some questions and comments for you.

    How long has your tank been up and running? Is this your first tank? What tests do you perform for water parameters. What are the water parameters? Do you have any pictures? Pictures give us another option in trying to help with questions.

    Dick
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  3. #3
    Curious Reefer
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    the flourescent is a t-8 i was reading about them and was told the only difference wetween the two is the diameter of the bulb its a GE aquarium light. The tank didnt come with a hood so i built one myself out of plexi-glass and attached the light and added the led moonlight. but to answer your questions the tank has been up and running for about two months. This is our first tank. And i test for Ph, nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, salinity, and specific gravity. Ph is right around 8.3-8.4, nitrate is at 5ppm, ammonia is at zero after a spike that i caught and delt with quickly. Nitrite is about 0.25 salinity is 33 specific gravity is 1.024. the tank is 20.5 from flat to flat and is 22 inches deep. No pictures yet i havent figured out how to upload them on here, but i saw the photos of your 100 gallon tank its very impressive. we are also getting red slime algea on our sand and LR. I added a penguin 660 powerhead and it took it away for a couple days but its back. is this a lighting issue or a flow issue? Thanks for your help. This seems to be turning into more of a life style then a hobby and we are wanting this to workout since we have been watching the tank more then the tv.

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    Grand Master Reefer CarmieJo's Avatar
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    Hi Ben, to TR!

    This should help http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/ge...t-picture.html.

    You are going to need to upgrade your lights sooner rather than later. Anemones need a mature tank and strong light. At 2 months old your tank is still unstable and the nitrite is hard on your critters.

    Red slime is almost a given in a new tank and is not really a lighting issue. I recommend siphoning it as soon as you see it and adding flow. You can use airline tubing as the siphon so you don't remove too much water.
    Carmie


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    Grand Master Reefer Amphibious's Avatar
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    Whoever told you the only difference between T8 and T5 is the diameter doesn’t know what their talking about. My guess it was an employee at a LFS (local fish store). T5’s are the latest in Fluorescent High Output (HO) bulbs. Carmie is right on when she said, anemones need a mature tank and strong light.

    The natural progression of the initial cycle is for Ammonia to build, peak and fall to zero, then Nitrite builds, peaks and falls to zero then nitrate begins to build. If you don’t have a way to reduce Nitrate it will continue to build. With your Nitrite at 0.25 I suspect you might be experiencing a Nitrite buildup and it could cause your anemone problems. It might even be the source of the Nitrite in such young tank. Nitrate is the least poisonous of the three and fish and corals can take Nitrate up to around 15 ppm. Nitrate and phosphate are the leading cause of red slime, common in new tanks. Increasing the flow, which you’ve done, helps. Allowing the tank to mature before adding too much bio-load is another key.

    One phenomenon you need to learn ASAP is, most LFSs are the worst place to get advice. I know, it sounds crazy, even self-serving, but sadly it’s true. Others here will confirm that fact. Suspect everything you hear at the LFS. Ask all your questions on TR before you make a decision. We’re here to help you, they are in business to sell you things. Many things that you don’t need or are inappropriate for your particular system. Such as the anemone. The anemone MIGHT live once you upgrade your lighting. If it does it could grow to big for your tank. Anemones can get huge.

    What filtration system are you using?

    Hope for pics soon.

    Dick
    Amphibious

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    Grand Master Reefer PhotoJohn's Avatar
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    I agree with Dick

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    i am running an aqua clear 50 and a protein skimmer.

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    Grand Master Reefer CarmieJo's Avatar
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    The skimmer is a good piece of equipment to have. Your LR and sand are the basis of your filtration. Using the aqua clear for flow is fine but it not needed for filtration.
    Carmie


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    So i upgraded my light to two PC's 10000k and actinic and am happy with how much brighter it is. All of my tests have come back negative for amonia, nitrate , and nitrite. and ph is stable at 8.4. The fish freaked out for a minute after installing the light, and then were fine. However, my Anemone has gone into hiding and is in a cave in the rock. Is this normal?

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    Grand Master Reefer CarmieJo's Avatar
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    Anemones go where they want to go. I would not try to move it, just let it get acclimated to the light and come out on its own.
    Carmie


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    So as far as lighting goes, does it matter that the light just shuts off or should i get a timer that slowly dims the light? Or does it matter?

  14. #12
    Our Brotha Down Unda
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    hey bud, welcome to the club

    Some great advice on these pages, straight to heart of the issues, i cant really add anything, which is great indication of very sound advice.

    How did you set your moonlights up, are they on an independant electrial circuit?

    The reason im asking is in responce to your question, no, it doesn't matter if the lights just shut off via a timer, as long as your animals, namely your anem is getting enough light source your fine.
    To counter your question/ query, if your moonlit leds are set to come on before lights out, & off at dawn, then that fixes any transitional issues you may have a concern about. Gives your fish the opertunity to retreat for the night without bumping into stuff...

    So far you seem to be on the money with the other stuff, kinda high on the bioload with your animals, however you also fall under the "new" umbrella as well, so its to be some-what expected.
    Look forward to seeing your efforts in the future bud.



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