Water Testing Advice for newbies

[Michael]

If you are new to this hobby and have a reef tank or you're planning on setting one up in the near future, understanding the importance of water testing will greater your success at reef keeping. I am new to this hobby and have caught myself several times reading a post that a more experienced reefer had posted about testing water parameters ONLY after water changes and slightly off routine times, where I myself should've been testing differently because I AM A NEWBIE. we need to understand that just because we read in a post that somone else only test for phosphates monthly or that someone doesnt test nitrates until a tank inhabitant does some odd behavior only implies that they are far more experienced. Testing your water WEEKLY AND THOROUGHLY is very important. some people believe there are five main tests which are...... ph, salinity, ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites, These are only part of a complete water test. even if you have a fowlr and only test for the above five, I can promise that eventually you will be testing phosphates when you have an algae problem, or even calcium when coralline becomes a nuisance. This forum has some very knowledgeable memebers with years of experience ask them for advice and they will often tell you whats good for their reef may not be good for yours.

sorry for long post.

[rayme07]

Thanks Michael for this informative post. I also just to add think that any additives you add to the tank should be tested too.

[Amphibious]

You are very correct Michael. It is imperative to test often with a new tank whether you are a Newbie or more experienced. The only way to “see” the cycle in progress is through the color changes using our test kits. Testing after water changes only tells half the story. Testing routinely gives a more complete picture of what is going on in the system and helps the Newbie get a better understanding of the “cycle”. Here’s my routine for testing the stages of the “cycle"...

With a newly set up system, I test Ammonia daily beginning on the 3rd day. It’s likely that nothing will show up before that. When I detect Ammonia, I begin testing for Ammonia and Nitrite daily. The “cycle” is in full swing at this point and may take from a couple of weeks to maybe six weeks more. Every system is different because of the many variables in system design. The “cycle” will take the time it needs to settle down. Once my Ammonia and Nitrite tests result in 0 (zero ppm of those two elements), I’ll test for Nitrate detection. Most often, in my systems, Nitrate will not be detectable at this point. With Ammonia and Nitrite at zero ppm, I can begin stocking my system lightly. Of course by this time I have tested for Calcium, Alkalinity, pH, Salinity, Magnesium and made adjustments to normal parameters.

First comes a clean up crew (CUC). This will consist of a few snails and SMALL hermits of a varity that remains small.
Next comes a coral or two. Zoanthids, mushrooms and other soft corals.
All most everyone makes a mistake at this point by adding a fish or two, or three or more. BIG MISTAKE!!! BUT you say, that’s what I want in the tank, color, movement, something to see, something to show my friends how smart I am to be able to keep SW fish alive. YUP, big mistake. Why, you ask??? Because...

One of the plagues of a reef tank is algae blooms. What causes algae to bloom? Excess nutrient and light is all that is needed. Since we need and use very bright lights, can’t change that except to shorten the length of time it shines. We have to avoid adding nutrients or pollutants. Where do nutrients/pollutants come from? Oh, you’re asking such good questions. The biggest nutrient provider in our reef tanks are the fish we add. And, adding them too soon is a major factor to algae growth. Prior to adding fish our corals and inverts require very little addition of food. The corals (most of them) can suffice for a long time on light alone. The snails and hermits only need a little food added as they are gleaning the LR and LS for food. The capacity of our “new” system (remember it is considered new for about a year) to process nutrients is limited. Excess nutrients/pollutants will be processed by something and that something will be algae.

As our system matures over the first year it’s ability to process nutrients expands. That’s why you will hear Carmie, Raymond, Bobby, David, myself and others repeat over and over again, “The only thing that happens fast in a reef system is disaster”. Now you (directed at no one in particular) know why we make that statement. It’s not just the sudden death of a fish, it’s rushing everything that causes disaster of any number of things such as death, algae blooms, even total system crashes.

For the best explanation of the year long “cycle” I’ve ever read, go here - "The Building of a Reef Tank", by Eric Borneman.

For my tips and tricks on buying healthy fish and QTing them, go here - "Nine simple Rules, to healthier fish"

Happy, successful reefing comes from following some basic simple rules. Everyone just needs to learn them.

Dick

[Michael]

wow, again i just learned something else from one of your post,

dick is like a dictionary for reef keeping. never ending knowledge. thanx

[SaltyDawg]

wow, again i just learned something else from one of your post,

dick is like a dictionary for reef keeping. never ending knowledge. thanx

Thats because when he set up his first tank there was only 13 states. J/K Amp.

[V]

[Amphibious]

Thats because when he set up his first tank there was only 13 states.

You’re not far off. Actually there was only 48 states and WWII had just ended.

Good find, V.