I just set up my RO/DI system from BulkReef, and I'm wondering one thing. It seems that all the canisters are filling up all the way, with the exception of the DI Resin Canister. Does anyone know if this is normal?
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I just set up my RO/DI system from BulkReef, and I'm wondering one thing. It seems that all the canisters are filling up all the way, with the exception of the DI Resin Canister. Does anyone know if this is normal?
That is the case w/mine as well. I think it is operating properly. ( 0 ppm TDS output.) I think there is just an air trap in there. You might try bleeding the air by loosening the canister a little.
Now I've got to go try it. I'll let you know...
Tom
I went and looked and the air seems to have bled out of mine on it's own over time. Mine has been on continuously for at least a month (Connected to my ATO) so, it may take a while. If you turn it on and off it may allow air to bleed back in. Either way, I think it should be OK.
Tom
Mine does seem to be running fine. I tried what you said, but it's still the same. My TDS meter is picking up 2, which I don't understand, but I'm guessing that it's probably just flushing out the initial preservatives still. I dunno. All I know is that having this thing is going to be a big stress relief.
I have been thinking about purchasing one! Are they hard to install how do you know if your house has enough water pressure
Well the pressure gauge is pretty cheap. My hose is running way over the recommended psi, but I cut it down by turning the hose down and using a gate valve on the intake line.
My tds meter is showing up at 2-4 depending on the pressure, and sometimes just randomly...Does anyone know if this could just be because I didn't calibrate it with known 0 TDS water...would that even calibrate it? It's just hard to believe that a new RO/DI is giving out water with any amount. I'm confused.
Okay, I feel stupid. I had the TDS meter before the DI resin chamber. I don't know how I did that. Anyway, I moved it to the output line, and I'm now reading 0 TDS.
Now you know your DI is working!
The DI canister not filling completely is normal and nothing to wory about. It is not under pressure at that point and the level in the canister is dependednt of how high your discharge point is. Also the cartridge is designed so water passes up through the middle not around the outside.
kman, don't reduce the pressure, more pressure, up to 100 psi is better for RO membranes, you want higher than 50 or 60 if you can get it. I run mine at 90-100 and it not only produces more water but it also gives lower final TDS too. You wil find you cant really regulate pressure with a gate valve or hose bib anyway, a 75 GPD RO only consumes about 1 quart of water a minute and you are not going to accurately regulate that. Open it up and let it go.
Interesting, I figured that upping the pressure would raise final TDS. Definitely good to hear though. I'm gonna try it out tomorrow Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZDesertRat
Quite the opposite. Commercial and industrial systems run at 200 psi +. Home units are adapted from commercial units and if you read the manufacturers literature you will find our RO membranes will operate at over 200 psi just fine, its the housings and fittings that are the weak point, even ANSI/NSF and UPC approved devices are only rated for 125 psi working pressure. A large number of RO and RO/DI units come from China and Taiwan, are clones of US systems and do not have NSF approvals so I would be hesitant to operate them at anything over 90 psi myself. There is a difference in quality even though they may look the same.
Just got my ro/di system installed! Its making water the first batch the tds was around 80! The second batch is down to 30 will this continue to decrease until i get to 0????
Did you flush each filter in order before installing the next one so you don't contaminate the system?
You should always install the prefilter first, disconnect the line to the RO membrane and flush the prefilter to waste to flush away the glues and binders used in its manufacturing process. This keeps it from fouling your carbon block. next you install athe carbon block and again flush to remove the dust and fines it will produce, remember flushing aquarium in the sink and seeing all the black water?
Next connect the RO membrane and disconnect or remove the DI filter, this step is critical! Flush 3 to 5 gallons of RO only water to waste to remove the antimicrobial agent membranes are treated with. This will eat DI resin like crazy if you don't.
Finally after 3 to 5 gallons which you have been monitoring with your TDS meter, and when it falls to an acceptable level you install the DI and do a final rinse up on the DI resin, usually 2 or 3 canister volumes and you are good to go.
It should be well flushed at this point .
i tested the water from the ultra pure valve it is 0 it istaken right after the di stage. Then the drinking water goes through some kind of polishing for taste and it goes back up to 30 is this normal
Yes, some RO/DI units intended for drinking water too have a final taste and odor granular carbon filter which makes the water taste better. The granular carbon breaks down and produces fines or dust which put TDS back into the water. As long as you are not feeding the DI filter with water that has passed through the granular carbon you are OK, if it goes through the carbon first I would get a tee and reroute the flow from the membrane directly to the DI bypassing the granular carbon so the DI resin does not exhaust as fast.
Too many vendors forget to include important information such as this and other things like maintenance and system disinfection instructions and frequency. All important stuff when it comes to water quality, human health and RO unit life.
Enjoy your new water filter, its a good investment!