Ok, the last of the original video episodes i have been working on. There will be more, but this was the last of the original plan. This show is about Hatching Brine shrimp for use as fish/coral food
OMG that is funny. My daughter asked me when we were going to start hatching brine shrimp tonight. I said "As soon as I figure out the best way to do it." Right on cue Rob Thanks!
i haven;t seen it yet, its loaded & ready to go,i saw it load today. but what process did u use, how deep/full on did u dive into the process, just incase i still have trouble watching all of it>!
Yeah, I was reading this article on seahorse.org about keeping Dwarf Seahorses, http://www.seahorse.org/library/arti...fKeeping.shtml and in the feeding section, the author said she places decapsulated eggs in the tank to provide different hatch times at different times of the day. I just don't know if it's really a good idea in a reef. I've where people have done that with regular cysts (not decapsulated) and ended with hydroids all over the tank.
used mainly for bulk batchs, unless your tanks the size of a small swimming pool, i would stick to pep bottles for now! lol we have links to stufff like this in the TR links DBase if u want to chase it some more!
"Corals require an aquarium, seawater at the right temperature and salinity, waterf flow, light, food, bicarbonate/buffer, and calcium. Period. No other equipment, apparatus, magic potions, pills, voodoo, prayer, or other sacrafices are necessary." -Eric Borneman
i think i slightly misread that! in the tank, means in the display?
Yup, in the main display tank. I just wonder why reefers don't do it, unless it is for some reason, considered to be bad practice. Seems like even the decapsulated eggs themselves would be good coral food.
i never heard this been asked before(cause u dont have control in the proccess)well afew reasons stick out on the simplistic front, they might not make it to maturity, uneaten, but un hatched will sit on the bottom pollutioning the tank!
can introduce unknown deseases, less that favouable conditions for cultivation to name a few
Rob mentions in his video that baby brine shrimp are very healthy for your fish, but adult brine shrimp are not very healthy for your fish. I happen to be reading Clownfishes, by Joyce D. Wilkerson at the moment and she has this advice on brine that I thought I would share.
She says that fist stage nauplii (newly hatched brine shrimp) are at their highest nutritious level because of the yolk sack that they feed on is high in fat. Their size also makes them excellent for feeding to clownfish larvae. But then she goes on to explain that adult brine shrimp make an "excellent food for your juvenile and adult clowns."
She said to move the nauplii to another tub or tank with good aeration and they will grow to adult in about 10 days and will live for more than 7 weeks. She says to feed them phytoplankton or "greenwater" and to pay attention to the color of the shrimp:
Pink or Yellow - Plenty of O2 and feeding on phyto.
Red or orange -Stressed and feeding on bacteria. Stress is caused by lack of food, O2 or high SG.
They will also eat rice bran, whey, spirulina (dried) and wheat flour. Be sure not to overfeed. A 20% change out is recommended per week. She says you need to clean the bottom of the tub every couple of days by attracting the brine with a flashlight to the top and siphoning the bottom. Debris collects because they molt 15 times before reaching adulthood.
It sound to me like it is more work to raise them to adulthood, but it does make sense that if they are eating phyto along the way, they still should have some nutritional value.
Just thought I would share what I have been reading and I will let you know how it works out!
valid post wild1, i should have modified the maturity statement within the the topic context, but to be honest, given the nature of the animals we keep, i dont see how many could survive any development stage, let alone play the numbers game to maturity
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