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Old 04-18-2008, 10:16 PM   #26 (permalink)
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ronnyv is an unknown quantity at this point
hi i have measure it its 153cm x 55 x 40

yeah gonna buy the equipment

question is the powerhead connected from the return pump?

and i dont want to use andoverflow box so what the other alternative that want flood?
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:23 PM   #27 (permalink)
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no power heads are a completely separate item. they create flow INSIDE the tank. the return pump is used to return water from the sump and create flow in the tank. i really like the Hydor Koralia power heads, but there are a lot to choose from.
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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i had to check the thread out to see if you had a drilled tank or not, it is about the only way to avoid floods. you DO NOT have one, and a tank that size is probably tempered on the bottom. there are still a ton of options here to create a "safe from flooding" tank.

1. a Utube overflow box (set up properly)

2. have the tank drilled on the BACK for a "Calfo" style overflow (also called a coast to coast)

3. regular overflow box with aqualifter pump.

4. closed system (not recommended for a beginner)

i suggest checking into number 2.
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:50 AM   #29 (permalink)
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The English.....sheeesh!


Welcome ronny, ive just stumbled across your thread, you've heard alot of advice & i agree, if your totally fresh, yep, it can be incredable the s^%$ you have to know. were going to help ya though.


Ronny, im going to start with financials, a touchy subject as people are sometimes reserved about that sort of thing, but honestly bud it constitutes the life of this hobby.

How much can you realisticly spend in total over the next 3 months on your tank?

how much are you allocating to weekly upkeep - this is worked out via cost of items used x volume & frequency of your system. take a guesstament?



Lets start from the top, cause im not searching for your other posts cause....well im lazy!

*a bow front tank about 300-400lt?

* no plumbing or holes drilled in the tank.

* you have an internal filter cartridge - consider it turfed it at this stage, takes up space in the display & designed for fresh, At least till we know its design & function anyways i wouldn't count on using it!

*you have T5 lighting, with a capability of 4 tubes. Do you know if they are normal output, high output or very high output?. This relates to the intensity.

* based on this lighting it looks to be a change of bulbs is all thats needed at this stage. i suggest keep it simple with a 50/50 split between daylight & actinic, open for discussion down the track.

Ronny, i suggest copy these points & type under each in your next posting to answer them.



Bobby, closed system, as in external sump componentry?

Ronny this next part is for the TR Guys, im going to bounce this idea, & would like some no BS input.

Im going to suggest for ronny to not drill on this tank, but keep it display only( possibility of a drilled false wall section) invest on quality internal pumps, K2/3pumps or something simular that bobby was suggesting. place new sand base, new rock, & let him possition his existing dead coral heads as it pleases him to dress the scaping. invest in an quality ATO for RO, followed up by somewhere to add a reliable skimmer that with a mod will draw surface skim to keep it stable long term & instill mentally a slightly higher than normal weekly manual changeout program. Not to mention determining where & how the water quality is achieved. This will KISS it up & will allow him to achieve the fundimentals, not to mention equiptment that can be applied latter as his knowedge base increases. Let me know!
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Old 04-20-2008, 03:09 AM   #30 (permalink)
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153cm x 55 x 40 = 60 x 22 x 16" so this should be about a 91 gallon or 370L tank.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:55 PM   #31 (permalink)
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ronnyv is an unknown quantity at this point
How much can you realisticly spend in total over the next 3 months on your tank?

Im going to spend £1500 about to $3000or slighly more/

weekly upkeep about $100-150

*you have T5 lighting, with a capability of 4 tubes. Do you know if they are normal output, high output or very high output?

they are high output written on tubes are fresh and sea aquaruim but i do not think it would suit a reef system


a bow front tank about 300-400lt?
this is correct but the bow takes it up to 420 l

no plumbing or holes drilled in the tank ?
no drilling but thinking of buyin a 50mm diamond coated circular drill head for diy drilling watched a couple of good videos on how to do it safley with out damaging your tank.


sorry for the post i have been reading a few books as the more educated i get on this subect i realise how stupid my questions were.

AS for the filter it has a powerhead bulit in bt will buy a seperate 1

so far my list goes like this

Sump/refguim tank spit with three sections going to buy some mangrove plants DSB of live sand and live rocks

Return pump 5000l/hour

an external fluval 404 filtert to put in the last chamber

uv sterillser

slat mix instant ocean

internal pumps, K2/3pumps (this is to replace the overflow box or to provide no need for drilling the tank ???????/)

NOTHING COMES UP ON GOOGLE FOR THIS PRODUCT

protein skimmer

ro water maker 65 gal per day

water ph test kit therometer
equipment to check salinity etc
I
S THERE ANYTHIN IM MISSING?


[quote]Im going to suggest for ronny to not drill on this tank, but keep it display only( possibility of a drilled false wall section) invest on quality internal pumps, K2/3pumps or something simular that bobby was suggesting. place new sand base, new rock, & let him possition his existing dead coral heads as it pleases him to dress the scaping. invest in an quality ATO for RO, followed up by somewhere to add a reliable skimmer that with a mod will draw surface skim to keep it stable long term & instill mentally a slightly higher than normal weekly manual changeout program. Not to mention determining where & how the water quality is achieved. This will KISS it up & will allow him to achieve the fundimentals, not to mention equiptment that can be applied latter as his knowedge base increases. Let me know! [quote]


WHAT IS THE NAME OF THIS SYSTEM AND IS THIS SYSTEM WITH A SUMP OR WITHOUT NEED TO DRILL( COAST TO COAST FOR THE BERLIN SYSTEM)

Last edited by ronnyv; 04-21-2008 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 04-21-2008, 04:31 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I get the impression that you want it as simple as possible.

It is possible to have a tank that is not drilled and without a sump, however it will be hard to hide away tech equipment.
One way to do it is to use the filterbox in the corner in the image earlier in the thred. Simply place it in the corner and use it as a holding place for the skimmer, it can be modified in a way so it only takes in the surface water from the tank so the skimmer will be more effective (see image).

Another way is to get a hang-on skimmer, like Deltec MCE600, its the easiest way. Simply hang on the side of the tank.

For circulation i recommend the Koralia streamers two of size 3 would be a good choice, there are many manufacturers of streamers out there so what you choose for this is not so importart, as long as they give a widespread and sufficient flow (atlest 10 times the size of the aqarium, ex 400 liter aquarium = 400x10 = 4000 liter/h).

With a tank like yours i would go with the following for a start. And see how it works.

1. RO/DI filter to get clean water for the tank from start.
2. Skimmer Deltec MCE 600
3. Good grade salt
4. About 40 kilos of LR to start with, (maybe half dead or cured and the other half high qality)

Startup:
1. Fill up the tank to 2/3 with RO/DI water.
2. Add salt to a proper mix with salinity about 1.025, and turn on atleast one stremer. (and a heater if needed it should hold about 25-28 degrees C.
3. Add the liverock after about a day when the salt is well mixed, and do some initial aquascaping.
4. Add water so its almost full (to give room for sand if you wat to have that), premixed i a large bucket of somekind (plastic).
5. Turn on the skimmer
6. Do the aquascaping til really satisfied, there is always room for redoing it later.
7. Add sand, preferably livesand, about 2-3 centimeters.
8. Let the tank cycle for atleast 4 weeks, with lights off.

The sand is added after the LR cos you will propably end up with som digging critters, and everyone knows what happens to a stone sits on top of sand that is beeing removed.
Lighting and other stuff is a issue that can be dealt with while the tank cyckles.
While the tank cycles I would think abot what kind of tank I'd want, mixed reef, FOWLR, SPS tank ...

This is how I would do, it does not mean that this is the only way.
I have seen a book called "Saltwateraquaria for dummies" or something like that, have not read it but i think it's a step by step guide how to setup a tank.
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Old 04-21-2008, 08:12 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Thank you that was real help from all of you especially the last two will draw a diagram of what im going to do to better explain myself

will i need a chiller?
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Old 04-21-2008, 11:39 PM   #34 (permalink)
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sounds like a plan! The english have an orsome resolve, keep the grey matter ticking brother!
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Old 04-21-2008, 11:44 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veriann View Post
Bobby, closed system, as in external sump componentry?

no V, i meant a stand alone with no holes, sumps, fuges, or anything else.
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Old 04-22-2008, 12:09 AM   #36 (permalink)
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