Welcome to TR Noobreef! Good to have another SoCal reefer on board. Make sure to go to that
Marine Aquarium Expo in OC in April (in your neighborhood).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noobeef I have a standard 29 gallon tank. Plain old 2’6” X 1’ tank. (Would like to get bigger, but apartment complex only allows 30 gal or less) |
Hmm... Your problem with that 29g is not the volume so much as the dimensions. 12" from front to back will prove pretty tough to arrange
LR and provide space for flow and maintenance. 30" long is OK, but you will have to hang your light fixture, or come up with a custom hood since most fixtures are 24" and 36" long. Not necessarily a deal breaker, but you could pick up another 20-30g tank of better dimensions for relatively cheap ($50). A 30g breeder tank (36lx16dx12h) may serve you better.
Quote:
|
20 pounds live sand + 10 pounds regular sand
|
If you are not planing on a
DSB (4+"), an inch or less for
SSB is recommended to prevent your bed from being too much of a nutrient sink.
Quote:
|
25 pounds live fiji rock from LFS (it will be fully cured)
|
This is a bit light on the
LR,
IMHO. I would recommend more like 30-40 pounds.
Quote:
|
A backpack filter for a 30 gallon tank filled with a combination of live rock pieces and Seachem Matrix Biofilter Media I have thought about getting a backpack filter for a 60 gallon tank and filling it with the above mentioned things to make the secondary area bigger.
|
Like RB, I would recommend a
sump in a stand. This will help reduce noise and clutter, provide space for a
refugium, and you can add up to 20 more gallons to your system without having the apartment complex know that your tank is more than 30g.
To overcome
nitrate accumulation over time (in about 1-1.5 years, many nanos have their
nitrates climb to 30ppm and above), I recommend agressive water changes (25%/week) AND efficient protein skimming AND a
refugium. Get a good protein
skimmer, not a $30-$60 piece of junk. Protein skimming can allow you to feed less sparsely, allowing your fish and corals to thrive.
Quote:
|
Now, that’s my tank and filtration plans. Please let me know what you think about this as an initial setup to get the cycle rolling.
|
Give you tank plenty of time to establish the cycle. Keep track of your parameters, and watch for a major
diatom bloom. The
diatom bloom is a welcomed sight as it usually means you cycle is nearly established.
Unlike some, I do not think you need a decaying shrimp or other booster in your tank to start the cycle (although it probably cannot hurt); there should be enough decaying stuff that you could not remove from your
LR to launch the bacterial process.
Quote:
|
I have also heard some people SWEAR by protein skimmers and other people say they hurt filtration because they remove some cool bacteria. I also will get a powerhead eventually, but without any coral I am hoping to wait on that expense (with all the other stuff I'm getting up front).
|
Cool bacteria. I like the sound of that...
Bacteria can multiply at an exponential rate. This thread by Eric Borneman, entitled
"The Building of a Reef (tank)" illustrates how bacteria would handily consume the volume of your tank if there wasn't something to stop it. That "something" is a food source, or lack thereof. Our
LR and sand provide enough substrate for an immense amount bacteria to live on/within. I wouldn't worry that a
Skimmer was removing a small percentage. Your bacteria will grow back in leaps and bounds.
I would get good flow
now, to help break up and keep the food and
detritus suspended instead of getting trapped in your sandbed and
LR. Two Koralia Nanos to provide opposing flow would be perfect.
There is strong argument to get corals first and then fish later. Corals can help you process the nutrients in your tank while deriving a good portion of their needs indirectly from light, while fish are messy and put greater demand on you to add nutrients to the tank. Either way, just go slooooow so the tank biology keeps up with you.
Quote:
|
Even though we don’t plan on rushing anything into the tank, EVENTUALLY we want to have 1 percula, 1 bicolor pseudochromin, 1 cleaner shrimp, a couple small hermit crabs and either a flame hawk or a dwarf angel of some sort (this will be the last fish we add).
|
Hawkfish in general have been known to pick on snails, hermit crabs, ornamental shrimps, and small fishes. They can be pretty aggressive, so proceed with caution, especially in a small tank. If you do chose a flame hawk, add him last, and feed him well.
Quote:
|
Where I really need help is lighting because for some reason, I can’t understand what people are talking about as it pertains to reef lighting and what I need. I know I’m supposed to have around 3-5 watts per gallon for a reef tank, but there are all these different types of light and stuff that no matter how many times I read it, it doesn’t make sense. I know information similar to this has been posted, but since every setup is different, I'm curious as to what people think about my proposed start.
|
I love this topic, even though I believe that flow is as important as light. I too heard 3-5 watts per gallon when I started out, and I (after only 2 years) now know better.
A