I think so Pam. How big was the chunk of shrimp? Did you leave it there the whole time? You could test by adding some pure ammonia to the tank and see if it increases the NH3 reading. If it does not then you can surmise that you have the nitrifying bacteria established enough that it is converting the NH3->NO2->NO3. I don't remember, did you ever test NH3 when you had the rock in the Rubbermaid?
Hi Carmie. It was just 1/2" of a small shrimp. I left it in for 48 hours, when it was starting to disolve, so I pulled it out. I did tgest the Nitrites and Nitrates when the water and rock was in the rubbermade. Ammonia and Nitrites were 0, and Nitrates was 10. It's at 5 now, and ammonia and nitrites are still at 0. Can't bring myself to pour ammonia in my tank.
Bye
Pam
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarmieJo
I think so Pam. How big was the chunk of shrimp? Did you leave it there the whole time? You could test by adding some pure ammonia to the tank and see if it increases the NH3 reading. If it does not then you can surmise that you have the nitrifying bacteria established enough that it is converting the NH3->NO2->NO3. I don't remember, did you ever test NH3 when you had the rock in the Rubbermaid?
I got my Solaris on 5/9 and took this picture on 5/13.
Last night I thought that it had probably died, a victim of my BTA with wunderlust, because all of its tentacles were retracted and it was looking green. Today the tentacles are extended and I can now see that it is developing new coloration.
It broke off of its stony "stem" when we were moving my tank but other than that the only thing that has changed is the lighting. I can't wait to see how it looks in a few more weeks.
I was using 130 watts of PC lights before the Solaris. Even my zoas have colored up beautifully under the new lights so I think that the prior lighting was really not adequate for their needs. T5's may support a clam but I think that you may be better off with MH. My chiller ran on a regular basis when using the PC's so I think that you would definitely need one with MH.
My wife is really pushing for the Solaris. But we are just starting out and probably won't need it for a few months.
I've been thinking of using a T5/MH system (Current USA Outer Orbit or Aqua Medic Ocean Light or the like) for the first few months and then switching.
The debate continues - pay now or pay now and again later.
Does the Solaris cut down dramatically on the heating of the tank water?
I've been thinking of using a T5/MH system (Current USA Outer Orbit or Aqua Medic Ocean Light or the like) for the first few months and then switching.
The debate continues - pay now or pay now and again later.
Does the Solaris cut down dramatically on the heating of the tank water?
Don
IMO, if you are looking at the Solaris I'd never recommend spending the $500+ on the T5/MH. The best prices for Solaris are here Solaris Price.
During the summer we keep our house at about 76. When I was using the PC lights my chiller cycled on and off to keep the tank at 82* whenever the lights were on. It draws 391 watts. Now my tank stays at 79-80 without a chiller. When my temperature controller failed my tank went to 87 with the PC lights on.
OK - I think I am going to use a small CF unit while I cycle the tank. My commission check should be here before we add any critters. At that point I think I'll order the Solaris. I like the lack of heat generated by the LEDs.
No problem Don. I will look forward to seeing your tank as it progresses. You don't need light to cycle your tank. It is however lots of fun to see what is going on and look for new things in your tank. You could also go with a NO fluorescent fixture if it is just to go through the cycle. I bought my tank used and it came with a NO fixture and the $25 mini Coralife CF light. I used those for about 4 months before I bought the 130w PC and then used that for about a year before the Solaris.
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to TR. 