Pump, plumbing question

OlGeezer · 01-31-2008, 12:23 PM

Hello Folks,
Should I avoid reducing my planned return lines from 1.5" after a Sequence Dart pump to 3/4" or maintain at least a 1 1/4" I.D. and reduce it at bulkheads? LFS suggested any reductions would not adversely affect pump's performance.
Would the advantages of fewer T's/elbows thereby less backpressure with Spaflex justify additional cost of flex hose over pvc?
Also, does anyone use or have suggestions about 220V external return pumps to 'drive' a 90g, 40g sump, and a 30g fuge with minimal head?
Thanks,
Bill the OlGeezer

IAreef · 01-31-2008, 12:29 PM

I have always kept the larger diameter and reduced as late in the stream as possible. This will keep your preasure high coming out of your return, helping your flow in the DT, and the larger diameter pipe and fittings near the pump will help reduce its workload also keeping heat down. As far as a 220v pump hopefully someone else will have more info. BTW welcome to TR

OlGeezer · 01-31-2008, 01:50 PM

Thanks, IAreef, for responding. I'm now torn between getting the Sequence Dart with 2" in/1.5" out vs the Sequence Marlin with 1" in/3/4" out into return lines which would match my 3/4" bulkheads. Just got off the phone with a reefer who has been in the hobby for a long time and he strongly urged me to go with the Marlin. Conflicting advice and different experiences make it difficult to make decisions for a newbie. I guess, sometimes you just have to 'bite the bullet' and go with what you think is right for you.
Bill

poppin_fresh · 01-31-2008, 09:11 PM

Ol',

how much head pressure are we talking about here? Are you pumping the water up 4 feet or 14? Where is the sump going to be located? Basement, under tank?

OlGeezer · 01-31-2008, 10:37 PM

Thanks, Poppin_Fresh for responding. The head will be approximately 3 to 4 feet because the display tank will be situated in front of the sump and fuges which will be arranged in a U-shaped affair. Room is a half octagon alcove in the lower level ( finished basement) 10' wide opening by 9' deep. Return pump will be below DT. Fuges will be stepped down to drain naturally into adjoining tank. QT will also be in that same 'work' area. With the DT centered in the opening, one side will be closed off, DT framed to give it an in-the-wall look, opposite side of tank open for access to tanks, etc. I hope I explained to your satisfaction what I have planned. In the future once I get my 'feet wet' and have progressed from a hobbiest to an aquarist I will be installing a tank on the main level of our house.
Bill the OlGeezer

**CarmieJo** · 02-01-2008, 11:08 PM

Hi Bill and

to TR. I think your set up sounds nice. I'd love to see some pictures as you progress.

OlGeezer · 02-02-2008, 10:44 AM

Thanks CarmieJo for responding and for showing an interest in my planned setup. I will take digital shots as I progress and post them here on TalkingReef for 'your viewing pleasure'.

Bill the OlGeezer, impatiently waiting for patience

poppin_fresh · 02-02-2008, 08:21 PM

Bill,
Is there are reason you are looking at such strong pumps? I think both of those are going to provide WAY too much turnover from sump to tank. Those would be better suited to a closed loop or a very large display tank.

I think you would be better off with a smaller pump for providing turnover and some powerheads (Tunze, Koralia, etc) for the flow in the tank, Not only will this be cheaper upfront, it should use a lot less power also.

OlGeezer · 02-02-2008, 10:21 PM

Poppin_Fresh,
Like you, I thought the same as re the size of pump and was thinking more in line with a Mag 9 but long time aquarists at a LFS have suggested that I go with a Sequence Dart, it's quiet, dependable, and uses less power to run. Personally, if I do go with a Sequence the Marlin model with smaller in/out connections is preferable. Rather than use powerheads I thought a couple additional return lines t'd off the pump with loc line attached to direct the flow into the DT would work. I'm a little apprehensive about putting anything electrical in water for obvious reasons. Also, my understanding of the Sequence Marlin is that it's flow can be reduced because it's controlled electrically.
Bill

poppin_fresh · 02-03-2008, 08:57 AM

What size drain(s) does your tank have? For the gallonage you are going to move with that pump you will need several larger drains.

I agree about not buying a Mag pump, they are not very efficient and they create a lot of heat. I still dont get why they would tell you to buy a bigger pump only to throttle it back? Why not just buy the correct size pump? Regardless of what you do though, you WILL have to put something electrical in water in this hobby eventually.

OlGeezer · 02-03-2008, 02:58 PM

The 90g DT has a 1" drain. What size/model pump would you recommend? I don't know what the flow rate would be nor do I know how to estimate it. From what I do understand is the size of drain and the head is key but how to decide what size pump would be ideal under my particular conditions is confusing. Suggestions?
Bill

lReef lKeeper · 02-03-2008, 04:37 PM

with a 1" drain you are loking at 600gph if the drain is on the bottom of the tank. so you want a pump that comes close to that after head loss. i would look at something like this ... SEDRA 7000A submersible-external 700 gph pump - Aquarium Supplies Plus!

i like the mag drive pumps ... the ones under 1200gph do not put off the heat as bad as the larger ones do, IME ... they can also be plumbed in externally, but they are a little loud.

Danner Mag-Drive Supreme 7 700 GPH Water Pump (Saltwater Aquarium Supplies > Water Pumps > Submersible > 500-1000 GPH )