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Old 12-17-2007, 10:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Overflow Repair and Sump/Fuge Alterations

I have been setting up a 90g reef tank over the last 4 months, mainly due to the expense and also the very bad experience that I have had with my LFS. Everything from ameteur plumbing, 48* angles, leaking bulk heads, plumbing installed wrong where I can't even use the filter socks going into my sump/fuge. They said they would be back in the next 2 days to fix the plumbing leak and I have never seen or heard from them since. I was told when they left that the salt creep would seal the stream of water that was running down the main pipe and running back into the fuge, they were right.... 9 days later. I know I need to have a professional plumber come in and rip everything out and redo everything, but I will wait until this summer. Here are a few of my questions. They placed a screen in my fuge that is shaped like a table with 4 cut pvc pipes leaving about a 2.5 area beneath the screen. On top of this they placed about 5 lbs of crushed coral. Some of the reading I have done says people are using a DSB in this area, not crushed coral. My DT has around 4" of various size sand alone as I read that the different sizes from sugar size and a little larger were a great combination. What are your thoughts on this? I was told that I should place the microaglaes on top of the crushed coral. Another problem that I am having now is with my built in tower overflow. They broke off a piece in the back on both sides for the pipe to pump water back in the tank, but only used one side. I placed a few feeder fish in my DT for my lion fish and a little while later found one of them in my sump. What can I use to seal off the that one area on the tower that they didn't use. I have some "Hold Fast" but it takes 30 minutes to cure and I am afraid that the pressure from the water flowing into the tower will be too great to allow the clay to harden enough to hold. Should I use a fiberglass, plastic like screen used on porch doors here or a piece of black plastic? I am so frustrated I could just burst into tears. Another question I have is in regards to the section used for my fuge. The overflow going out of this section has 4 large 2" holes across the top to drain the water into the section that contains my skimmer and 2 pumps. Any living creature that I put in this area will be dumped into the area with my skimmer and pumps. What can I do? Should I place screens over these holes because they are so large? When I decided on the 55g Sump/Fuge, it was with the idea of maybe housing a sea horse or other interesting species.

Any of your advice, chastisement, etc. would be appreciated! :-)
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Old 12-17-2007, 01:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Update to my Dilema :roll:

Well, being the intelligent individual that I am, ahhem I found some appropriate plastic material and cut myself two small ventilated sections to repair the damaged tower overflow. I worked with a product called "Hold Fast" as I had worked with it when I did some of the aquascaping with live rock for my tank. It worked pretty well and when I was finished, I felt quite pleased with myself. That was until I looked up and the level of water in my DT had risen to the point of me freaking out at the possibility of a deluge! I quickly removed one section of the repair that I had done and the water level planed out. Whew! I now realize that perhaps I need to tweek the pump's water flow? I really need some help here as I sure am not gonna get it from the LFS. The only thing they have helped me with is to empty my pocket book and discourage me. How does one adjust the volume of water/flow from their main pump? Or should I use a plastic type screen instead of the two ventilated plates I made? Help! I'm drowing in ignorance
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i would go to HD and pick up some black plastic gutter gaurd and zip tie it to the existing overflow teeth to fix that problem.

to fix the holes in the fuge ... i would get an egg crate (light diffuser [white] while at HD) and cut it to fit to form a sort of screen over the holes and either superglue it to the tank or to a mag float. you can attach the magfloat like normal and it should hold it in place.
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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oh, and i would pull out the screen and crushed coral and add a DSB in its place.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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hey skervey

id ask how you've been , but im guessing i already know the answer to that question. chin up brother, we've all had our fair share of doddgy brothers.

Lets get you on the path. A dude, try grabbing a camera, you can host the pic's at photo bucket for free & then copy them here.

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I was told when they left that the salt creep would seal the stream of water that was running down the main pipe and running back into the fuge, they were right.... 9 days later. I know I need to have a professional plumber come in and rip everything out and redo everything, but I will wait until this summer.
thats crap, they should have seen that straight away after the wet run. Im assuming they didn't wait for the wet run
Even if they applied extra glue after the fact, then at least that would have been better than nothing. 45 deg angles are ok, depends on what they are used for, bulkheads on the other hand shouldn't leak for obvious reasons. unless the rubber bung is had it, & or they forgot to tighten em. Did you get this fixed yourself?

bobbys on the money, gutter guard is cheap as, & its non restrictive. Note that word...non restrictive, look at it logically that you want protection for your animals, but as non restrictive a possible. you realised that when the level couldn't be maintained.

GG is totally inert & alot more UV resistant than most products so it makes for an easy solution . Between GG & plastic create you can make anything.

If curing time is only 30min for your bonding product, then as long as you monitor any stress levels in your animals, then shutting down the return system for that time is ok.

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They placed a screen in my fuge that is shaped like a table with 4 cut pvc pipes leaving about a 2.5 area beneath the screen. On top of this they placed about 5 lbs of crushed coral. Some of the reading I have done says people are using a DSB in this area, not crushed coral.
they have designed this to be a cryptic fuge. the table top is to restrict light & a safe haven under neath for various critters. depending on what space & future stocking list, it can be handy. choice is yours to remove the coral gravel on top of the table, although personally i wouldn't bother unless you were going to pull out the design.
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Old 12-17-2007, 11:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Wow, that is frustrating. Where are you in SC? I know there is a reef club in Charlotte, NC where you could probably get good recommendations/assistance.
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Thank you Bobby and Veriann! Thanks for the umbrella to keep the black bird of misfortune from, ahem, you get the picture. I looked in my cabinet and I've got a small leak going on from one/ or both of the bulk heads again. Not sure if my trying to repair the tower changed the pressure and caused the leak again or not. No, the guy from the LFS was here the whole time (3 hours 1 day to do the plumbing and came back a few days later and primed it and let it run for 1.5 hours) and saw the water running down the main drain line from the bulk heads and just added some glue and said that it's normal for them to leak for a while and it was ok because it was running straight into the fuge. (Oh yeah, I really believed that one and Toto don't like doggy biscuits either.) He said that the salt build up would seal the leak and that he would come back the next day or day after that to make sure everything was fine as he couldn't do anything else that day as it was getting late. You know the scenario, you call, complain, etc. Just beating a dead horse at this point. Thank you for telling me about the gutter guard and egg crate. I'll zip out tomorrow and pick some up. I am thinking that if I can continue to do improvements to my tank, the more confident I will feel and more comfortable. After all, I did make my own mixture of sand for my DSB and feel good about my aquascaping job.

I had another question also. The top of my tank is reinforced all the way around with a center cross bar also. I thought about cutting 2 clear plates (plexiglass or some other medium) as a cover to cut down on evaporation. I also thought about taking the last 3" on each piece and cutting ventilation holes that would run the width of the sheet to let air still circulate and not hold too much heat. What are your thoughts on this or other suggestions? And if so, what thickness? I do not have a lighting system into play yet as I am still planning out what type of environment I'd like to create for corals and the types I would like to keep. (deep water, tide pools, shallow reef, etc.. As you can see there are still many decisions that I must make yet and I know that my lighting set up will play a major impact on how my tank handles heat from lighting. I also know that using a cover with my lighting when I get it will have it's output cut due to having to penetrate this medium and will alter the spectrum of light, or light that enters the tank and also that reachs the bottom of the tank. (Or at least that is my miniscule understanding of all the informative documentation that I have had the oportunity to read.)

I have a camera, not a good camera, but it's all I have so beggers can't be choosy, especially when they are spending every extra dime they have building a tropical paridise with 145g of salt water. Nothing like wearing headgear with magnifying glasses with your head pressed up to the glass of your tank just staring into that paridise for hours. Makes people really worry about you sometimes. I'll try to post some pics soon of the DT and the S/F. My cabinet turned out nice I thought. I bought an oak kitchen base cabinet and had a carpenter reinforce
the interior with braces to support the extra large weight load. I came out $200 cheaper than what the LFS tried to sell me so I am very pleased.

And hello Carmie Jo! I live on the coast, Charleston. If I had to move away from the ocean I would dry up and blow away. There is a reefers club, but it's sponcered by guess who? Needless to say, we won't be going there.
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:48 AM   #8 (permalink)
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glad to see you still have a pulse on the humor bud

while your zipping out, pick up a bag of zip ties while your at it! You'll need em for the diy building kit.

you can handle the fixes yourself, even though its easy to get it done for you, once you do it only once, you tend to sit back & say thats a snap!
that leak needs addressing, i'll put it into perspective, when i plumbed my last nano project i still had a small breach on the return. drinking & gluing might be the cause in hind site but the moral of the story was i let it go because it was like a drip a min and would block easy, anything that constitutes a trickle = & should be sealed.

look forward to seeing your cabinetry. glad you thought about the weight ahead of time.

As for the covers, im surprised an american is asking to employ them..lol
most of you leave open top & contend with major evap. which is fine if you automate the process with auto-top off devices. if your still controlling salinity manually i can see why the need for limiting evap. just keep in mind its sometimes a neutral gain, you can easily win in one area, but lose in another.
I use glass for everything cause its cheap, as long as you factor ventilation namely for gas exchange and the logical use of your tank bracing positions your laughing.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:11 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I am thinking that for now, perhaps I'll go with the 2 sheets of glass and to make up for the section over the tank for ventilation, I will just cut a strip of egg crate or some other medium as the tank does need to breathe. I do not have an auto top off, or any other bells and whistles at this point. But hey! There's something to look forward to.

I do have another question! I have one return pipe nozzle? pumping water back into my DT. It has high water flow on one end of the tank, but the other side of the tank is a much lesser flow. I have placed a wave maker on that end to help. What can I purchase to act as an attachment to this pipe and have the water flow dispersed in 2 directions to get better water movement on the other end?
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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man !! I WISH I COULD OPEN A PET STORE/ MAINTENANCE COMPANY !! i hate they way that the maint. companies do things !!

need a little more info to really be of any help here Skurvey. here is what we need ...

1) PICS of the entire setup ... tank, plumbing, overflow, return, skimmer, EVERYTHING. WE will be more than happy to walk you through REDOING everything that the LFS has done. it really is not that hard to do so dont worry if you mess up a little bit. we can rebuild it ... better ... stronger ... and mostly more impressive than it was before. and YOU will be very proud to be able to say that it was built BY YOU !!

you get us pics of the whole shebang ... we will blow your mind with what can be done in this tank !!
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks Bobby,

Would you believe and I'm embarrassed to say, that I have a little over 2 grand tied up in this little system so far? AND no lighting system yet! I hope things finally plain off to a stable maintenance routine and not fall into the same category as that movie with Tom Hanks, "The Money Pit!." But of course that sum includes the $225 charge to build my sump/fuge from a 55g I had and around $300 for labor on plumbing,