The Talkingreef Community
   

June POTM, Get your Vote in now!

Welcome to the The Talkingreef Community forums.

- Please consider Joining our community to get access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

- If you are new and want to check out the podcasts you can find a full list of FAQ's to get you started. The most recent shows are on the homepage of Talkingreef

Go Back   The Talkingreef Community > General Discussion > Marine Tank Problems
Register FAQForum Rules Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

» Photo of The Month
» Talkingreef Live (TRL)
» Online Users: 71
4 members and 67 guests
92gallonreefer, BrianPlankis, Jasonanatal, swiseman
Most users ever online was 570, 05-23-2008 at 06:55 PM.
» Comment line

Powered by MyChingo
» Site Partners


Reefkeeping


Project DIBS


ReefPedia

» Sponsor
» Advertisement

Remove Advertisement

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-20-2007, 12:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: South Burlington, VT
Posts: 82
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cloob is on a distinguished road
Cyano not going away

I've done 3 water changes over the course of this week on my BC29 using R/O with Instant Ocean but the Cyano always grows in the center towards the front of the tank even after a water change. I sucked out all the sediment in the back chambers. I have a Sapphire skimmer, Purigen bag in the 1st chamber, Phos bag in the 2nd chamber, and a purigen bag with Chemi Pure Elite in the 3rd chamber with a Rio 6hf pump. If I adjust the flow onto the cyano it rearranges the sand. Not sure what else to do other than go crazy. Current stock is 1 saddleback, green BTA, zoas, xenia. I feed the clown every other day and only once during that day. No nitrates or phosphates show up when I test the water.
cloob is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored links
Old 04-20-2007, 04:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: South Burlington, VT
Posts: 82
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cloob is on a distinguished road
So I'm going to trest the R/O tonight that I get from my LFS.If it is high in phosphates how can I alleviate this problem? The LFS is the only place to get R/O from in Vermont. There are only two LFS in Vermont.
cloob is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2007, 08:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
Grand Master Reefer
 
CarmieJo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 7,313
Thanks: 151
Thanked 114 Times in 111 Posts
CarmieJo is on a distinguished road
I guess if the RO from the LFS has phosphate you could try circulating it with a bag of phosphate remover. While we were on vacation my tank was overfed and I had cyano when we got home. I kept siphoning it out and changing water but it came back within a couple of days every time. I finally gave up trying to get rid of it using natural methods and used Red Slime Remover.
__________________
Carmie

Only disasters happen fast!



54 Corner Tank
Carmie's Cube


Show people you appreciate their advice! Click the icon under their name to add to their reputation.
CarmieJo is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2007, 09:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
Insightful Reefer
 
doctorthompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 276
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 14 Posts
doctorthompson is on a distinguished road
Send a message via Skype™ to doctorthompson
These 3 steps have worked for me:

Try adding another powerhead or shifting around existing powerheads or return nozzles to finesse your water turbulence or at least make better use of your overall water flow. Examine the areas where the cyano tends to collect and make sure there aren't any "dead zones" where the water looks still or food particles are settling instead of being kept in the water column.

Siphon out as much of the slime as you can. Airline tubing works pretty well for siphoning but if you have really thick mattes of cyano on your rocks/sand you might want to use something else like a turkey baster or something.

Temporarily cut your lighting period back. Keep the tank lit for only 4 or 5 hours a day for the next few days (corals and macroalgaes will be fine, cut the period back slowly if you have an anemone or any easily stressed livestock). After a few days gradually start increasing the period again by 30 minutes every 3 or 4 days until you get back to your original, preferred, lighting schedule. You'll probably see the cyano dwindle within just a couple days of cutting back the photoperiod but I've seen it come back if you skip the gradual increase and just jump back to running your lights for 12-13 hours a day. I think the gradual increase of the lighting period allows the other organisms in the tank that would normally use/consume the cyanobacteria a chance to catch up.
__________________
Lucas "Doctor" Thompson
doctorthompson is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2007, 01:59 AM   #5 (permalink)
Grand Master Reefer
 
fat walrus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: held captive on a BORG cube
Posts: 2,747
Thanks: 1
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
fat walrus is on a distinguished road
Increase flow, especially in the trouble areas.

Make sure you have enough scavengers and sand sifters.

Make sure your PH and KH is on the high side of the acceptable scale.

Reduce or eliminate the use of foods and additives that contain sucrose, glutcose, gel-binders, and EDTA.

Know exactly what is in your water prior to adding salt mix.

In regards to phosphates, hair algae and diatoms are more effected by phosphates then cyanobacteria. Phosphorus is part of natural seawater and a required trace element, however it does show up on many test kits as phosphates.
__________________
USA
fat walrus is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2007, 01:36 AM   #6 (permalink)
Master Reefer
 
JayBeDriften's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bronx, New York
Posts: 690
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
JayBeDriften is on a distinguished road
Send a message via MSN to JayBeDriften
Quote:
Originally Posted by cloob View Post
So I'm going to trest the R/O tonight that I get from my LFS.If it is high in phosphates how can I alleviate this problem? The LFS is the only place to get R/O from in Vermont. There are only two LFS in Vermont.
I would suggest that you purchase your own RO/DI unit and a TDS Meter to purify and test water. It will eventually cut down on the cost of driving out to purchase water from your local fish store and you can be sure that you follow the maintenance on it to keep nothing but 0.000 TDS reading aka PURE wate coming to you. It was honestly the best purchase that any Marine Aquarist can make and it is relatively cheap.
JayBeDriften is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2007, 04:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
Insightful Reefer
 
doctorthompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 276
Thanks: 0
Thanked 17 Times in 14 Posts
doctorthompson is on a distinguished road
Send a message via Skype™ to doctorthompson
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBeDriften View Post
I would suggest that you purchase your own RO/DI unit and a TDS Meter to purify and test water. It will eventually cut down on the cost of driving out to purchase water from your local fish store ...
If you're going to continue buying water (instead of splurging the $$$ for an RO/DI unit) I'm pretty sure you could find somewhere other than those two local LFS's to buy water from, check your local grocery or department store.


JayBeDriften, what product or process did you use to clear up the cyano outbreak you had last year?
__________________
Lucas "Doctor" Thompson
doctorthompson is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiFurl this Post!
Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
damn cyano dadonoflaw Macro and Micro algaes 18 02-13-2007 09:04 AM
cyano bacteria iglowce Marine Tank Problems 3 10-19-2006 08:25 AM
Attack of the killer Cyano! fishcounter Additives and Chemicals 21 07-10-2006 05:51 PM
Cyano? Red and green "stuff" in substrate DeederMc Marine Tank Problems 6 03-12-2006 05:52 PM
Help with Cyano bacteria Danamck Marine Tank Problems 11 03-09-2006 05:20 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.0.1

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:47 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
LinkBacks Enabled by vBSEO 3.1.0
Ad Management by RedTyger

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91