Hey nick!
3 things we need to narrow are:
Was it Turbeularium, black specks coined "black ich" , which is a flatworm infection, black spots are irrations cause by the infection itself.
Was it Crypto Irratans, white spots coined "marine ich or white spot" which is a fast spreading parasitic infection.
Or was it Amyloodinium, a ruff textured infection of raised dots coined "marine velvet & gold dust" that spreads in the water column mainly!
I'll post up crypto since that what your inital thought was. Follow any links the guys give you to get a well rounded grasp, which i belive u have already, & if you believe its one of the others, drop in the request & i'll post them too!
Cryptocaryon irritans : This species is an obligate ectoparasite, which simply means that it needs a fish to be a parasite of, and a parasite is simply any organism that feeds or benefits from another plant or animal without giving anything back in return. This species of parasite takes one of four distinct forms as it goes through its life cycle. In an infected tank, each one of these forms are most likely present at any given time. If we can kill or stop any one of these forms, we can irradicate it from our tanks. The life cycle and time line of each stage:
1 : TOMONT STAGE: This is where the parasite forms a membrane while attached to the substrate and goes into its reproductive mode, this can take from 3 to 28 days depending on the temperature of the water.
2 : THERONT STAGE: This is where the newly hatched parasite is free swimming in the water and is looking for a fish to attach to. It only has between 24 to 48 hours to do so or else it will die.
3 : TROPHONT STAGE: This is the adult parasite which is attached to a fish and actively feeding and the one that we can visibly see on a fish. This stage lives from 3 to 7 days.
4 : TROPHONT FREE SWIMMING: This is where the parasite has dropped off of the fish and is free swimming within the water looking for a suitable place to attach to so that it can form itself into the Tomont or reproductive stage, which can take up to 18 hours.
HOW?
So now comes the obvious question, how did it get into my tank? Well, it was put in there by you. If you put a fish, some sand, rock, inverts, anything that came from an infected tank straight into your tank, including the water those things came home in, then you run an extremely high chance of adding it to your tank. Remember, all it takes is just one of any of the parasites stages to infect the tank. Even if the fish looks just fine, it could still be carrying the Trophont stage, the water it came home in could be carrying a free swimming stage, even certain inverts can be carrying a Tomont stage, as well as whats in the water free swimming. Sand and Rocks can carry the Tomont stage also. So now what are we supposed to do with that bag of water and the fish or sand/rock that we are so proudly holding? PUT IT IN A QUARANTINE TANK!!!! yes, even the sand and rocks,
anything that came from another tank should be quarantined. Here is a link that will guide you in what is needed and how to set up and use a
QT TO LATE
Okay, you just found out the hard way, and now its too late, the parasite is in your tank, so now what? Well, now its time to kill the little commies. With the use of the quarantine tank that you are now going to go buy and set up, we can get rid of the parasites that are on the fish and those that are in your aquarium. This is going to be done with a two way attack, meaning that we must separate the fish from the aquarium by placing them into a quarantine tank. Yeah I know, its really hard to catch all the fish now, but to bad. It HAS to be done.
The reason it has to be done is that we are going to use the treatment method of hypo
salinity, which means, the lowering of the
salinity levels of the water that the fish are in, note that I said, that the fish are in. Which will be in the quarantine tank. You can not use this method on a reef tank with any inverts or corals in it. Dont worry, we will get to the tank itself in due time. Since the whole idea of our battle plan is to wipe out at least one stage of the parasites life cycle, we can attack the Trophont parasitic stage that are actually on the fish, not by direct attack on the adult parasite itself, but by making it impossible to complete its reproductive stage once it does drop off of the fish. This is done as I said, by placing ALL the fish into a quarantine tank and using a hypo
salinity treatment. This link will explain exactly what to do when ALL the fish are in the quarantine tank, Hypo
salinity solution.
NOTE: You must use a refractometer to ensure proper
salinity level is reached and maintained. A
hydrometer can be highly inaccurate which could, and most likely will allow this parasite to continue on. If you can not use or get a refractometer, then I would treat the tank with another treatment method such as
copper while still having to leave the main tank fallow for six weeks as well. To make it easier to understand, I am going to list one by one, the steps needed to be rid of this parasite now that your tank is infected. Some of this will be a repeat of what I just said, but its worth it.
TREATMENT OF THE FISH
1. Set up and have ready your quarantine tank filled with your tank's water.
2. Catch and place ALL of your fish into the quarantine tank.
3. Adjust the
salinity as per what you read in the hypo
salinity article with the use of a refractometer, if one is not available, then treat the quarantine tank with a medicated / chemical treatment method.
4. What is happening to the parasite now that it is trapped in a tank with nothing but fish and a low
salinity level. Over the course of the first week, most, if not all of the adult parasites that are on the fish will reach the stage where they must drop off of the fish and go into their reproductive stage. This is where we catch them with their pants down.
As the adults swim to the bottom of the tank and anchor themselves, they will form a membrane surrounding themselves in order to reproduce, which they do by division, much like a bacteria does. But the problem is, they are unable to do so at lowered
salinity levels since they rely on the osmotic pressure difference (salinity differences) between normal sea water levels and what is formed within their membrane to pass what they need from the outside world through their membrane, in short, since the
salinity levels within the membrane and outside the membrane are almost equal, there is no pressure difference to allow any transfer of liquids. In short, they smother to death and are unable to start their division process. They may even be totally unable to form a membrane to start with. With that done, we have broken their life cycle. No possible "babys" that can attach to the fish and start the cycle all over again.
5. If you add up the time of these cycles, you will note that the fish should be clear of the parasite in a little over a week. Are we now going to put the fish back?...NO!!!, to do so now would just infect the fish all over again. The parasite is still in your aquarium. So lets deal with that now. Actually you already have been dealing with that since you first removed the fish. Here is why:
TREATMENT OF THE AQUARIUM
1. This is the easy part. By having no fish in the tank, we can let the tank just go about its daily routine. we can feed the corals, and do our normal tank maintenance.
2. With no fish in the tank, any Tomonts that hatch will not have any fish to attach to and start feeding to grow into adults...........No fish = starving baby Ich.
3. The reason the tank must remain without fish for 6 weeks, is that the Tomont stage can take up to 28 days to hatch out, if it is a different species, it could take longer. With this being the longest stage of the parasite, it will take the longest to "cure". Note that I said 6 weeks and not 28 days. This is just being on the safe side. Why wait exactly 28 days only to find out the hard way that it may have taken a bit longer. Or that it may just well be a different species of this parasite.
Welcome to TR reef to dude!
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First post...and its the common ICH :/ 
sold you a 29 gallon.... I have used the food you gave me and works great but remember that helps withthe immunity of a fishes system.
to TR. I have read that you can break the ich cycle. But everything I have read indicates in a tank without a host for at least 6 weeks. I've never read anything about with a fish in the tank. I just was reading something the other day that was really good. I will look and see if I can find it. If so I will post the link.
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