Metal Halide Lighting Suggestion.

[JayBeDriften]

Hello everyone, I'm interested in stepping up from the world of T5 High Output Lighting System to Metal Halide Lighting. However, I have some questions that I hope you wont mind answering since I don't want to make any costly mistakes.

1. I would like to slowly add smaller units to my system due to financial restrictions rather then just getting a full blown system on my 180 gallon and having my credit card company kill me. Would anyone have any suggestions on this?

2. What temperature bulbs does everyone use? I have seen systems that come with the 10,000k bulbs and are somewhat yellowish in color and then some that have the 14,000k to 20,000k bulbs that are more blueish and more natural in my opinion which is what I would prefer.

3. Could someone also explain to me the deal with the ballast and Metal Halide setup to begin with?

[veriann]

well, my suggestion is to find some info on lunenarc products, ive fallen in love with these. 10k with actinic works best in my opinion. but this is a big can of worms u've opened because of the varables that come with it! in saying that cause your american buying american gear, its best i zip it! & leave it to folks geographicly

[veriann]

if u need help finding links to these products, if they are not in the link TR D-base on the site, its because they are not transfered over from the new wave thread. but the products are in there!

i was there anyways to get the link for the page, so i brought the LunenArc product range for u to check out! but by far the cheapest way to do any lighting is in retro form. this could be a possibliity for u

[JayBeDriften]

I am interested in the Ice Cap 250/400 watt pendants and may going with the 20,000k bulbs what do you guys think of this?

[Rob]

preference as to what temp is used is dependent on what you are keeping and on your opinion.
some people think that the 20,000K is too blue, and others think the 10,000K is too yellow.

you might think, well they 14,000K should be perfect.. well as it turns out, 14,000K is usually the lowest in intensity or usefulness.. not that its bad, just not as strong as the others.

many people commonly go with what V recommended.. 10,000K bulbs with supplemental actinic lighting. the supplemental lighting is usually provided by PC, T5 or VHOs, most people prefer VHO or T5 or the actinic..

i personally use 2x 250w 10,000K with 2x 110W VHO actinics.

make sure you research the bulbs, the ballasts the reflectors, as they all matter, and effect the system as a whole.

its also important to know what type of coral you are planning on keeping.
many people are successfully keeping all types under the proper amount of T5 bulbs, but replacement costs can get high when you have 8 bulbs that have to be replaced ever 8-10 months, where MH bulbs, will be more expensive, but you dont need as many, and replacement more around 11-13 months.

of course the replacement details and bulbs intensity i state above can vary from one manufacturer to another...

as much as this sucks there are exceptions to everything i have said, which is what makes lighting a very hard topic to give advice on. i would recommend as Veriann did.. look in the link database here on Talkingreef. start getting an understanding of the component, bulbs, and there effects... bring ANY questions you may have to us.. and we'll help you.. but ultimately the decision has to be yours and should be made based on a good education, not "because i said so"

so to be so vague, if you need any more specifics just let us know

[JayBeDriften]

Rob, is 10,000k more powerful then 20,000k or is it the other way around? I'm just trying to gauge which way the measurements go. I want to have just Metal Halide and remove the T5's and Powercompacts. As far as corals go I'm not sure what I would like to house but I would rather have the ability to house anything. I was hopefully going to get 1 400 watt metal halide system and adding two more of those systems later on.

[Rob]

the K rating is a rating of the relative spectrum, as in the color, of the bulb and doesn't directly indicate its power

its "power" is now-a-days referred to by its PAR rating (photosynthetic active radiation)
this basically indicates the amount of energy it produces that is able to be actively used for photosynthesis.

that said, 10,000K bulbs usually have a higher PAR rating that 14,000K or 20,000K
and 20,000K us less than the 10,000K, but is usually still higher than the 14,000K
just remember the K rating is not and indicator of its brightness, just of its spectrum. (although the lower temp bulbs usually look brighter.

if you do not want to use any supplemental lighting, they you will want to look at 14,000K or 20,000K as the 10,000K bulbs usually lack alot of the blue wavelength that is needed by many corals

i know it may seem complicted, so if you need clarification, just let me know.. lighting can be a pain to learn..

[veriann]

i think it wise of any aquarius to take into account the new LED technology at our door step as an alternative to the same high price of other units in the lighting fields

[JayBeDriften]

Originally Posted by veriann

i think it wise of any aquarius to take into account the new LED technology at our door step as an alternative to the same high price of other units in the lighting fields

Veriann, I took a look at the LED lighting on your website but the price seems almost double to triple of Metal Halide setups that I am planning for my aquarium. I'm getting excellent results with my T5 High Output Lighting and I'm just wondering other then having that shimmer of Metal Halide is it even worth it to change them? The shimmering effect really does make me want to say yes. Would you happen to have any photographs of aquariums that have the LED already installed so I can visually decide?

[JayBeDriften]

Originally Posted by Rob

the K rating is a rating of the relative spectrum, as in the color, of the bulb and doesn't directly indicate its power

its "power" is now-a-days referred to by its PAR rating (photosynthetic active radiation)
this basically indicates the amount of energy it produces that is able to be actively used for photosynthesis.

that said, 10,000K bulbs usually have a higher PAR rating that 14,000K or 20,000K
and 20,000K us less than the 10,000K, but is usually still higher than the 14,000K
just remember the K rating is not and indicator of its brightness, just of its spectrum. (although the lower temp bulbs usually look brighter.

if you do not want to use any supplemental lighting, they you will want to look at 14,000K or 20,000K as the 10,000K bulbs usually lack alot of the blue wavelength that is needed by many corals

i know it may seem complicted, so if you need clarification, just let me know.. lighting can be a pain to learn..

Thanks for the assistance. I went into a store and saw what I believe was 20,000k Metal Halide and personally I'm a fan of the blue tint of color. The shimmer was amazing and I wish their was a way to replicate that with T5's I'm gathering because the bulbs is completely clear as oppossed to opaque T5 bulbs that it contributes to the shimmer.

[Amphibious]

Originally Posted by JayBeDriften

Veriann, I took a look at the LED lighting on your website but the price seems almost double to triple of Metal Halide setups that I am planning for my aquarium. I'm getting excellent results with my T5 High Output Lighting and I'm just wondering other then having that shimmer of Metal Halide is it even worth it to change them? The shimmering effect really does make me want to say yes. Would you happen to have any photographs of aquariums that have the LED already installed so I can visually decide?

Actually JBD, I think you found the LEDs on my web site, The Cultured Reef. No one has photos of the LEDs on their tank yet because no one has the lights yet. The first production run is being built now as I type. The first shipment is scheduled for around 7/31. My six foot Solaris should be one of the first out because I was the first to place an order. The first public showing was at IMAC in April. Now I've never been known to be the brightest bulb on the tree but, the minute I saw these LED fixtures and what they could do, my bulb glowed a little brighter. So I placed the first order right then and there. As soon as I can present pictures here, you know I will. However, the shimmer effect doesn't show up on photos. So, you won't be able to compare that against MH except in person. I'll let you know, when I know.

Dick

[gwen_o_lyn]

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