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Old 02-23-2006, 04:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Nearly ready for water

Hey everyone,

I couldn't quickly find the thread showing my 135 plumbing pics. So. here's an update. The plumbing below the tank is finished. A couple of things to do at the tank level tomorrow and then test fill with fresh water, run for a day and then, if all checks out...........WOOHOO, saltwater and all that goes with it. Wish me luck. Of course, read my sig line.

Here's a pic of the nearly finished plumbing. I don't have my UV yet so there's an open T for that and an extra T just because. Here it is and I've got to go, heading out for dinner and late.



I'll expect some critiques when I get back.
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Reaching my 70th BD, I realize that I cannot help but grow old. However, I refuse to grow up!!! My wife would tell you, "He may be 70 but, He's going on 17". Life is wonderful with a woman like that.

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Amblyeleotris randalli commonly called Randall's Goby.
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Old 02-23-2006, 05:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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an image from the other angle would bee cool, its hard to see where the lines all go to from this image...
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Old 02-23-2006, 08:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow....looks awesome! Can't wait to see more.
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Tank setup 8-5-05
26 gal bowfront

click sig to see my tank and 'tankcam'

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Old 02-23-2006, 08:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i am really looking forward to seeign more pics and possibly a schematic or two.

really neat so far.
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you would think with a degree and professional career i could actually spell words correctly. sory.
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Old 02-23-2006, 09:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Rob

I don't think a different angle would help. Maybe you mean from the top. That will come tomorrow. Let me run through each line from left to right.

Dicscharge from pump, a Mag 24 at 2400 gph zero head, is 1" immediately increased to 1 1/2" header. The first T goes behind and to top of tank. Will show this tomorrow. 2nd T will be for UV, not here yet. 3rd T goes to a Bermuda Aquatics Skimmer rated for 225 gal. 4th T goes behind and up to the top for a 3/4" Sea Swirl. 5th T is a by pass, goes directly back to sump. 6th T goes behind tank to the top. Exactily like the first T, will show you what I do with these tomorrow. 7th T is extra, just in case I forgot something. The last T, horizontal, is the return line running up the inside of the overflow and discharging through 3/4" Flex Loc fittings at the top of the O/F Also in that line is a 1/2' T and valve for water changes or whatever.

The "sump" isn't, but I didn't want to wait for my manufacturer to make up my design for the sump. I'll order that soon. This is a trickle filter box that I'll fill with LR, Walt Smith's Fiji Mud and Aragonite sand for now. That can be changed out easily enough when the sump arrives.

More pics tomorrow.
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Amphibious

Reaching my 70th BD, I realize that I cannot help but grow old. However, I refuse to grow up!!! My wife would tell you, "He may be 70 but, He's going on 17". Life is wonderful with a woman like that.

Our web site The Cultured Reef
Our Talking Reef Forum The Cultured Reef Forum
My tank journal Amphibious' 135 mixed reef.
The Cutured Reef toll free number - 888 745-0449



Amblyeleotris randalli commonly called Randall's Goby.
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Old 02-23-2006, 09:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Forgot.

Two 1" drains with Durso stand pipes.

Lights. I'm thinking of a 60" Aquactinics with 2 175 watt XM 10K and 2 80 watt T5 HO Actinic bulbs.

Tank is 24" tall and will have 5" DSB, Aragonite sand, LR, LS, etc.

Any thoughts on light selection. Anybody have experience with Aquactinics??? Here's a link to the page with the lights. Scroll down to the 60". They are $775.00. OUCH!!!

Lighting_Systems.
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Amphibious

Reaching my 70th BD, I realize that I cannot help but grow old. However, I refuse to grow up!!! My wife would tell you, "He may be 70 but, He's going on 17". Life is wonderful with a woman like that.

Our web site The Cultured Reef
Our Talking Reef Forum The Cultured Reef Forum
My tank journal Amphibious' 135 mixed reef.
The Cutured Reef toll free number - 888 745-0449



Amblyeleotris randalli commonly called Randall's Goby.
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Old 02-23-2006, 10:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amphibious
Forgot.

Two 1" drains with Durso stand pipes.

Lights. I'm thinking of a 60" Aquactinics with 2 175 watt XM 10K and 2 80 watt T5 HO Actinic bulbs.

Tank is 24" tall and will have 5" DSB, Aragonite sand, LR, LS, etc.

Any thoughts on light selection. Anybody have experience with Aquactinics??? Here's a link to the page with the lights. Scroll down to the 60". They are $775.00. OUCH!!!

Lighting_Systems.
wow.. that is expensive.. im sure you could DIY for much less than that
i know that my MHs were $350 new (retro kit)
and i got used VHO ballast and reflector (new bulbs) for $100

i would look that route..
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Old 02-24-2006, 07:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey Dick!! Looking fab! Is that a downdraft skimmer? Also, wouldn't it be good to have a true valve (I think that's what they're called) on both sides of pump so that you can remove it easier for cleaning/maintenance?
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Old 02-24-2006, 08:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Good Morning Christi,

Thank you!

I'm really not sure about this skimmer. It's a new design by a new manufacturer, Bermuda Aquatics out of CA. I met the "kids" that own BA at MACNA last year. It looks like a great product. Workmanship is very good, design is good (similar to others). Bought on a whim also sale priced. Also, the guy's wife was a "hugger", immposible for me to resist a "hugger".

The guy claims to have the best injector system. We're about to find out. (I called them "kids" above because they were only in their late 20s, they were kids to me.) I was going to sell the skimmers, set up a page on my website but haven't gotten prices from them yet.?? You can read about them, their words, at this link - Bermuda Skimmers

Should be doing a freshwater flush today or tomorrow. Checking for leaks, that sort of thing. I don't expect any problems but you never jump into salt without a thorough test of the systems.

Quote:
wouldn't it be good to have a true valve (I think that's what they're called) on both sides of pump so that you can remove it easier for cleaning/maintenance?
Good question! A valve, of any kind, would be a good idea at that location if the job was spread out away from the pump. But, everything is right there and I have valves on every take-off. So, to do pump maintenance, I just need to shut-off all the valves, allow the water to drain into the sump until it stops. Then syphon out the sump to where the water level is below the pump intake bulkhead fitting. At that point I can loosen the bulkhead fitting and un-screw the pump suction line (flex hose and a threaded male adaptor). On the discharge side of the pump is a union for disconnecting that line. Walla, the pump is free. There would be a small amount of water to catch but, that's normal.
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Amphibious

Reaching my 70th BD, I realize that I cannot help but grow old. However, I refuse to grow up!!! My wife would tell you, "He may be 70 but, He's going on 17". Life is wonderful with a woman like that.

Our web site The Cultured Reef
Our Talking Reef Forum The Cultured Reef Forum
My tank journal Amphibious' 135 mixed reef.
The Cutured Reef toll free number - 888 745-0449



Amblyeleotris randalli commonly called Randall's Goby.
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Old 02-24-2006, 08:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Rob

I suppose I could go the retro route and save some money (don't tell my wife, okay?) But, I'm in a hurray, don't trust my eletrical skills, wouldn't know what to buy, don't understand the entire, ballast/MH/HQI/magnetic/electronic thingie. Are you getting the idea, Rob? I don't want to waste my time trying to figure out what to buy, where to buy, get the wrong thing, send it back, wait for other parts, run 10 miles to HD to get a wire nut. I think that about covers my electrical skills. I'm a pipefitter, not an electrician. My sig by-line says it all. Electrical success for me is "Plug and Play".
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Amphibious

Reaching my 70th BD, I realize that I cannot help but grow old. However, I refuse to grow up!!! My wife would tell you, "He may be 70 but, He's going on 17". Life is wonderful with a woman like that.

Our web site The Cultured Reef
Our Talking Reef Forum The Cultured Reef Forum
My tank journal Amphibious' 135 mixed reef.
The Cutured Reef toll free number - 888 745-0449



Amblyeleotris randalli commonly called Randall's Goby.
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Old 02-24-2006, 09:47 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Dick,
totally understand your point..
the retro kits are all wired. and ready to be mounted.
the main differences are this

Full hood - a lot more money, just hang it and plug it in.

Retro - all wiring is don't, but you will need to supply the canopy/hood, mount the reflectors and find a home for the remote ballasts

Full DIY - get out the cutters and electrical tape, as you have to do it all..

i went Retro, and there was "Zero" wiring. my reflects has prewired sockets right on them, that simple plugged into my ballasts, then i plugged the ballast into the wall, and walla, let there be light.. i will get some pictures up tonight of it all..

for reference here is the exact equipment i have

* Reflectors - i got standard spider reflects that had SE moguls sockets already on them, the socket was all wired up and ready to be plugged into my ballast (again, simple plug, no electical work needed)

* bulbs - i got 2x 250W 10,000K XM bulbs

* Ballasts - i revieved two PFO magnetic