i'll work in reverse with the questions!
u can use the external filter to pollish your water with carbon or phozban ect when u think it needs it, or fill it with coral rubble if dont wish to remove it from the setup! if u do use it with coral rubble keep it away from any bubbles in the
sump. towards the pickup heading back to the main tank is best cause in this zone u should have already rid the section of bubbles!
are u useing a hydometer or refractor for messureing your S/Gravity?
your levels look good, your
CA reading is holding steady yes?
yes
PO4 test has to be on the cards at some point! its a way to assess excess nutrients buld-ups in the tank>fueling the HA in most cases.
also pay attention to temp. this is important as well. Delbeek& Sprung list ideal range as 70 to 80
another thing to pay attention to is your
PH &
ALK.(pH 8.4-8.6 and alkalinity 10-12 dKh) to favor
coralline and inhibit the nuisance algae.
u can tackle the problem on a few fronts. take one rock at a time in a bucket with drained tank water and scrub it out of existance. try 1 rock a day or at a time to limit spooking the fish!
never scrub it in the tank> it will spead like crazy if u do this!
look at the nutrients your adding to the tank & limit it! eg: food/salt mixes/water sources ect ect. your not stupid, im sure u can track it down. if its over feeding slow it for awhile till your
live rock reaches peak populations of bacteria to process all the wastes. or at the very least till the algae problem is under wraps!
i'd proberly gross feed the anems every second day for awhile
this is also where the external filter u have can come in handy, by adding phos removing media. the inital removal will starve the tank temporaryly of
PO4. but untill its gone u have to keep on top of it!
i would stick to the snails to see how that goes. there are other algae eaters, but a seahare or fish to tackle the job is still going to increase the bio-load on the tank, where as some trochus or turbo snail are not! alot less anyways
hope this helped