Well your question seems a little vague to me, but I’ll give it a shot. You’ll have 39+ gallons in your setup lets round that to 40 to err on the side of caution and go from there. First thing, you want to circulate a min of 10 to 20 xs per hour. Let’s go with 20 because you can decrease you
GPH with a ball valve but getting it higher means a new pump (been there done that). You’ll want about a 800gph pump you can add a power head to up your water movement. But I digress.
Let’s start with the 800gph pump. If you are pushing 800
GPH through your system you will be moving 13.3 GPM through your pipe which coincidentally is the max GPM for 1” schedule 40
PVC pipe. So we know that you’ll need a min of 1” pipe
Now lets look at you diagram and figure out you head feet. Here are some lines for the pipe fitters manual.
A. First, find the equivalent loss from each joint. These numbers are in equivalent foot lengths of straight pipe.
1" pipe: 90 bend 3', 45 bend 2', T-thru 3', T-bend 3', valve 1'.
B. Add up the total equivalent feet from all the joints and the total length of pipe.
C. Look up the right value from this list.
The numbers are for 0.75", 1', 1.25", 1.5", 2", 2.5", 3" pipe
0300
gph: 6.3, 1.9, 0.5, 0.3, xx, xx, xx
0600
gph: 23.1, 6.5, 1.8, 0.8, 0.1, xx
0800
gph: 48.3, 21.9, 4.0, 1.9, .25, xx
1200
gph: 73.5, 22.8, 6.2, 3.0, 0.8, 0.4, 0.1
D. To find the losses in lift equivalent, look up the right value from the table and then compute B x C/100.
E. Add D to waterfall and/or stream height to get the total lift (head) equivalent drag on the pump
F. Look at the performance table from the pump instructions to see the amount of water that will be delivered at the head computed in step f.
G. Repeat a-f for each pipe size under consideration. A preliminary c check is to see the pipe size where the high numbers for your pump size suddenly go low. Also compute the materials cost for each pipe size!
On your diagram you have 5 90° bends at 3’ each = 15’ head. Now the height of the tank is the question I’m going to take a guess and say 4’ with the spray bar and the bends lets add 2’ so that’s 6’ of pipe and 15’ of drag that make it 21’ of head.
So: 21X21.9/100=4.7523 head feet.
Now we have the pump size and pipe size. Now for the return from tank to
sump if you don’t want to drill (I don’t) I use an overflow box they are all rated by
GPH so just pick the appropriate size. Now for the return for
sump to tank if you are using a spray bar that is above the water line it wont create a siphon in a pump failure. If it’s below the water line just drill a small hole .15” about .25” above the water line and angle it downward toward the tank. It will constantly shoot a small stream of water but in the case of a pump failure it’ll allow air in and break the siphon.
The only thing is in the case of a pump failure making sure your
sump doesn’t overflow from the head in the tank. The best way I find to do this is outside fill the tank and get the overflow going then stop the hose. This is where the water line will be at failure. Fill your
sump a little at a time from the hose till everything runs fine but has barley enough water to do so and you have a flowing system. Then kill the hose and pump and let everything drain into the
sump. This is your min line this is the minimum amount of water you can have in your
sump. Now fill you
sump to about 1” of the top and start the system again when the water levels out mark that line as your max line if while your system is running the waterline goes much above that line you will have a wet living room.
Hope this helps.
