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ok, its learning time kids!
the mistic ora of drilling yourself will be converted into knowledgable gains!
just as soon as people start filling this thread .lol, Instructions, experiences and stage by stage pictures will be needed. a clear defination between glass and acrylic driling will also be required!
Ok Veriann, I am up for this challenge. I drilled my tank in March and it was very nerve racking! I tried all i could to get out of it, but the only place that would drill it wanted $50 a hole to do it, which was more than the price of a new drilled tank. So I decided that I would try it. If I did it right, I saved $150, if I messed up, no big deal.
The first thing I did was order my bulkheads from www.drsfostersmith.com. They had a nice chart that told you what size hole for what size bulkhead. Now that I ordered my 3/4"" bulkheads, I need a drill bit that would make a 1-1/2" hole for my bulkhead to fit in. I hit Ebay and found a seller buy the name of Lau. He was out of Hong Kong, but had had great prices and really good feedback. Since we in America make things tough, I had to convert 1-1/2" to mm, which is 45mm. I ordered 2 bits for less than $20 with shipping, they cam in a week later.
I cleaned my glass and made precise measurements. Marking the center point of the hole and then using the bit and a Sharpie marker, I traced the outline of the holes. I measured again, just to be sure. As my dad always told me "Measure twice, cut once."
I turned the tank onto its face on some towels and moving blankets. I put a towel on the inside as well, because when the cut piece falls it could break the tank it it hits it. I actually brought home a jig device that attaches to an electric drill to turn it into a sort of a drill press. This was beneficial for ensuring a straight cut by the bit, but it was not 100% necessary.
Drill Press Attachment
As you can see from this photo, I put plumbers putty around my hole to build a dam to hold water. I then added water to the dam. and started drilling.
The key to the whole drilling process is "GO SLOW". I would say you are running like 700 RPM. This is not a speed contest. You must remember you technically are not "Drilling" the tank, you are grinding a hole in it. Once trick I later learned is to leave the bit loose. Not real loose, but loose enough that if it binds, it will stop turning in the chuck of the drill. If the bit binds, it will shatter the glass.
Do not drill with much pressure. The weight f the drill is almost enough weight, just a slight amount of additional pressure is needed. Remember, grinding, not drilling.
DO NOT DRILL THE BOTTOM OF YOUR TANK! Most tanks have tempered glass on the bottoms. These will shatter and they sound like a bomb going off when they do. When in doubt, don't drill it. Check with the manufacturer before you drill ANY part of the tank to be sure the glass is not tempered.
My first hole took about 15 minutes to drill. I added new water to the dam I built every few minutes.
My glass was pretty thick. Remember, the thinner the glass the harder it is to drill without breaking. Shortly after drilling these three holes, I broke a 20 long because I drilled too fast and didn't take my time.
I watched someone drill a tank two weeks ago by drilling it with the glass being vertical. I prefer a horizontal glass, but the reason they did it vertical was because they taped an air line to the tank and siphoned water from a jar to drip on the bit/cut area ans they were drilling. I would say that it is about the same, but the you do have to have a steady hand to begin the hole as the bit would tend to want to walk on you. This is where the jig was helpful.
A few safety notes:
Always wear glasses to protect your eyes. You can always buy another tank, but new eyes are hard to come by.
Always wash the tank and you hands after drilling. The water turns cloudy. That is because of the tiny glass particles in it. If you get those in your eyes you will not be a happy camper.
Always use a GFCI outlet when using an electric too around water.
I hope other can add to this as I am sure I have missed a thing or two. Don't be scared, it is not a bad as it looks.
Focus your energy and concentrate it all into your wind. (yes, wind...not mind).
Using the bulkhead as a guide by firmly holding it at the preplanned location with your right hand, outline your hole by ingraving the glass with your left hand pinky-fingernail.
Remove bulkhead and trace the engraved outline with your right first finger. This will allow you to know your task a hand.
Lick the tip of your left first finger and hold it into the air in order to guage the atmospheric conditions. Once you have assessed the conditions, lick your left middle finger and then hold it along with the first finger in the shape of a V to channel energy to your chee.
Climb atop a three foot stool or an inverted trash can placed six foot from your tank placed aground.
Breath deeply. Leap off the stool aiming to alight two feet abreast left and two feet beyond. Beginners should not attempt to make kung-fu sounds while leaping.
Form your right hand into the shape of a crane's head. Strike tank at preplanned engraved circle with crane's head as you fly by. Strike at the glass in a hammerhead fashion.
Your hole should now be ready for bulkhead fitting and further plumbing. For more information, see my zen-plumbing guide.
back to the main point
\This thread had perfect timing, i just found out that no glass stores will dill tanks and the one that i did find had the wrong sizes and never guarantee their work.
Anyhow, i have an idea. If you were to take a plank of wood, drill the same size hole, in the same places, and then take a second piece of wood, and put it on the side you are not drilling, you then drill through the wood.
In this way when you get to the end, you have a pressure coming against the glass, preventing the thin pice from cracking off and ruining your project.
I dont know how well i explained that or how it will work, but you always hear "reduce pressure near the end, as glass is thn and can break"
Im not saying keep pressure thru all the way, but this way it may not be as nerve racking near the end.
ive had a tank builder that handles most of my projects for the last 7 years so the technical side of this has escaped me!. the kicker for me is i also have some more drilling through 20mm glass coming up, so i thought i would finally make the effort and learn instead of outsourcing. what do u think guys, will fry's idea cut the mustard?
teehee, doesnt mustard verge on liquid?? (lol, dont worry i get it )
I was just looking at the thigns you should never do and trying to come up with some ideas to prevent, but as i have yet to drill my own tank (will be ordering the bits on monday) i was nearly trying to get some input on the idea.
Small Fry, Im not a glass expert by any means, however im not sure if you want the glass tite light that. If you place a peace of wood on each side of the glass and clamp it down there would be no vibration. Im not sure if you crack the glass or not. I drilled my tank with just a drill and the HOLE tank was vibrating. now if you took that vibration out of the equation there wouldnt be anything to obsorb the drill bit vibrations. The corner or end peace of glass is the most sensitive area with glass so if the bit was to get hung up or something it wouldnt just chip the glass like it does it might just crack it. Just my thoughts.
Also when you put the bit into the drill make sure you can turn the bit without turning the chuck. just hand tighten the chuck. this way if you hit a snag the bit stops and doesnt crack the tank.
lol, Instructions, experiences and stage by stage pictures will be needed. a clear defination between glass and acrylic driling will also be required!
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