I have completed my custom sump and ATO system. If it is OK with Rob I will post these details both here and in my journal.
Project Overview:
I wanted to add an ATO system to refill my sump when the water from the main tank was lost due to evaporation. I needed a custom solution, I didn't want it to be an eyesore like the 5 gallon bucket and doser pump that I was currently using. Here is an overview shot of the work area:
I decided that a 10 gallon Rubbermaid tub would fit well under the existing bar booth seat.
Only slight modifications would need to be made to the booth and the system would be hidden from sight.
My idea was to put Keep It Simple (Stupid). I tend to get very complex when working of things like this. So I decided to install the smallest pump I could find to deliver the water to the sump. I choose to go with the Hydor Pico. The Pico was very small when I got it, about the size of an HP printer cartridge. I used 3/8" hose to carry the water.
For the control inputs I choose to go with a float switch that I saw on Ebay. I purchased 3 of them.
I needed to figure out how I was going to switch the pump (120 volts) on and off. I obviously didn't want to run 120 volts through the switches, although they would handle that. Instead I borrowed a trick I use almost everyday at work...I used a relay.
Whats a relay? A relay is an electrical switch that opens and closes under control of another electrical circuit. So bssically I could run a lower voltage through the float switches and when all three switches were in a "closed" position they would close the switch on the pump circuit turning it on. When one of the float went to an "open" position, the pump would stop. I happened to have the right relay for the job in my garage, a left over taken out of a project that I worked on earlier in the year.
So I had the switches, the relay, the pump, but I needed a lower voltage that would control the relay (through the switches). I founf an old transformer in the garage. It was 12 volts DC, just what the relay required. I also grabbed one of those cheap extension cords to supply my 120 power.
All of the electronics would be housed in a standard electical 4 square box with cover, and I decided to run everything from the reservoir to the sump in a PVC pipe to keep the job clean.
Pump- $12
Container -$4
Hose - $4 PVC Pipe - Free
3 Float Switches - $30 (incl ship)
Wire - Free
Relay - Free
12v Transformer - Free
Not having to put water in the sump everyday - PRICELESS
I scratched out a plan on the wiring on a box lid. Ran a few quick tests with the switches and came up with this plan.
PLEASE NOTE: If you don't have much electrical knowledged you should seek help from someone who does. You risk eletrocution and death with this project. Water and voltage don't mix.
NC=Normally Closed - Voltage flows between NC and COM when the relay is not energized.
Com = Common
NO = Normally Open - Voltage flows between NC and COM when the relay is Energized.
Now I will explain what you see. The 12volt transformer flows voltage through three switches. The reservoir swith is closed (or allows voltage to pass) if there is water in the reservoir. If I am low this is open to not allow the ATO pump to run dry.
The Sump High switch protects from a stuck float and overflow. This switch is closed if it is LOW. If the water causes this switch to float HIGH it stops the pump. Obviously this switch is high in my sump.
The sump low switch is what tells the system ATO pump that water is needed in the sump. When it goes low, it closes. As long as the reservior has water and the sump high switch is not floating, the water will run until this switch floats again.
When all three switches are in the closed positon, voltage runs through a coil (built into the relay not shown) and it causes the NC and NO terminals to switch states. So since we are hooked through NO and COM, when all switchs are closed voltage flows through the extension cord. When one of the switches opens, the electricity through the cord is stopped.
If we plug the pump into the female end of the extension, we can control it.
I placed the rubbermaid container in the bottom of the seat., drilled a hole in the to to allow the cod and hose to run through. I pulled the seat away from the wall and drilled a 3/4" hole through the lower side of the booth frame to accomidate wire and tubing.
I mounted the PVC to the wall, and ran my 12 volt wire from the relay to the switches, my tubing, my extension cord (the outlet is behind the tank) and an extra 2 wires just in case I need them later.
I mounted the junction box and wired the relay.
Here is a photo of the final under the booth seat.
I then mounted the sump sensors, here is a photo of them. The other switch is partially blocked from view by the skimmer. I used silicone on the wire nut connections in the sump area...better safe then sorry.
And then I plugged it in and gave it a test. As you can see, when the float is down, the water runs in!
After 24 hours the sump was at the exact same level. It works like a charm. I don't have to look at a doser pump, constantly adjust the dose, see a bucket in my bar area and the reef is more stable....we ALL win!
good workwildone. i use the blueline pumpsaver and the tsunami top-up sensor. your float switches seem much more economical. can you tell me more and where i can find them. is there a brand name?
ROb, I am topping off with just RO water. My next step is to check out the Kalk podcast and figure out what to do from there.
Walrus, look up a store on E-bay called FISHBOWL INNOVATIONS. I didn't see a name brand on them. I plan on siliconing them in place once I determine they are in the best location. I wouldn't want them to fall and create problems....
ROb, I am topping off with just RO water. My next step is to check out the Kalk podcast and figure out what to do from there.
ok, cool, but if you go to kalk, you might want to eiher keep a close eye on that pump or go to a peristaltic pump, as kalk kills those impeller pumps..
just a heads up..
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ATo is working real well. I had a slight problem that I never ran into until I installed the ATO and that is I had 2 large Turbo snails plug both overflows at the same time. I thought by intalling two overflows the chances of that were real slim, but alas they fooled me. So needless to say, my sump ran low, the ATO kicked in and dumped 5 gallons of RO water into the tank. Not a huge deal, but it dropped the salinity to 1.023 or 1.024. So I had to raise that back up with changeouts. Since then I have covered my overflows with GutterGuard material to prevent this from happening again.
One thing I do want to do is take the float that is in the reservoir and tie it to a second relay so when it is low it kills the pump (so it doesn't run dry) and trips a wireless transmitter that will in turn trip a silent zone on my home alarm system and in turn will page my cell phone to remind me to fill it back up. Yeah, I am lazy and hate to look and see if it needs filled .
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are you a history or aviation buff? i love your ARMY AIR CORP stuff
I am an aviation buff. My basement or "hangar" as I call it is full of aviation items including the frame of an actual piper cub tail that I snagged off of Ebay. I have always loved aviation, but I have yet to get a license, but I will some day. My idol growing up was Eddie Rickenbacker (The only American Ace from WWI) mainly because he lived down the road from my Grandparents here in Columbus! Anyway, I digress.....
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