I have been keeping a T. crocea for nearly two years. Its firmly attached to the rockwork in my tank.
A Stylophora coral has grown to the point where its seriously encroaching upon the clam. Part of the crocea's mantle is continuously bent over.
I obviously have to move one of the two. The clam is the best candidate.
This brings some questions to mind:
1) What is the best way to cut the byssal threads away from the rockwork without causing damage to the byssal gland? I dont have much room to work and the rock surface is very irregular. Is there some way to get the clam to extend those threads or loosen its grip on the rock? Can I slide a thin razor/cutter blade betwen the clam and the rock? Will that risk tamage to the byssal gland?
2) I'm considering another sopt for the clam lower in the tank. It is currently about 14" from the surface. It's new spot will be about 20". Could this change in lighting be dangerous for the clam? My lighting is 250W metal halide. I was thinking of lowering my lamp/reflector to reducing the distance from the surface to help make up for the light change. I can easily drop 6+ inches.
I too would trim the acro before moving the clam, but with that said, it can be done. I've moved crocea many times when changing tanks.
If you find the most exposed area at the bottom of the clam, you should be able to use an exacto knife and cut a few byssal threads. DO NOT GO TOO FAST. As you cut a couple, you should be able to "rock" the clam a little more, back and forth (Very gently...do NOT force the clam or you will tear it's gland), exposing more threads. Cut CLOSER to the substrate/rock than the clam itself. You do not want to accidentially knick or sever the byssus gland/port.
While you have the clam off, give it a once over and check for nusiance algae, aptasia, boring sponges etc. When you put it where you want it, use smallish chunks of rubble or LR to hold it in an area for a couple/few days. If the clam is healthy, it will create a mucous at the port and begin threading itself to the rock again.
Your lighting is such that you could have that clam anywhere in the tank. Unless the tank is unusually tall, you could even put a clam on a flat rock, and settle that on the sand. I'd not worry about adjusting your existing light. That will only throw off the other inhabitants of your system.
as Dave mentioned, it's safe to use a blade to carefully cut the byssal threads in order to relocate the clam. cut as close to the rock as possible, and go slowly.
i've also CAREFULLY rocked clams over a period of time, which loosens the threads, but this is VERY tricky to do, and you run the risk of damaging the byssal gland if you get impatient, so use a blade if you can. sometimes it's necessary to use a combination of rocking and cutting to get the clam loose. just remember, if you damage the byssal organ, you'll most likely lose the clam.
after you give the clam the once over, if you get a small piece of LR or a clam halfshell, let the clam attach to that, and if you ever have to move it again, all you do is move the halfshell or LR it's attached to.
I wanted to let you know that I looked at your site tonight and think your tank is beautiful and the images are exquisite! I am slow when reading Spanish so I have not been through all your archives but I have really enjoyed everything I have looked at so far. I love my Penn Plax pumps that come on when the power goes out for exactly the reasons you mentioned. I was impressed with your DIY model.
I am looking forward to working my way backwards through the archives and reading your articles.
__________________ -------------------------------------------------------- Life is just a tire swing. J.Buffet
ArrecifeMadrid
I keep a 100AGA SPS dominated reef. Lighting is 250W MH in a Lumenarc-III reflector and IceCap ballasts,
Tunze electronic & stream pumps, Deltec electronic return pump,
Bubble King skimmer, Deltec CaRx and ZEOvit reactor. Running since March 05
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