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View Full Version : HOW TO MOD A NEW POWER SUPPLY FOR SOLARIS LEDs



bklynreefdude
04-30-2009, 11:20 AM
IF YOU HAVE ANY FEAR OF ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT HAVE SOMEONE MORE KNOWLEDGEABLE HELP YOU OUT ON THIS. THE MOD IS EASY BUT THERE ARE CAPACITORS INVOLVED THAT CAN STORE ENOUGH ELECTRICTY TO KILL YOU.

WHAT YOU NEED:

ATX power supply. These are common PC power supplies widely available on the web. It has been recommended to get one of 500W or slightly more so as to have headroom (will run cooler and longer) and 2 fans. They come with a variety of outputs, we are interested in the 12V (YELLOW) and the 5V (RED), the BLACK and the GREEN. I bought Sunbeam Casegears 580W, the fans are a little loud but it is just the sound of air not an annoying whine. You can spend as much as you like but $30-$50. should get you a good one.

Soldering iron and solder.
Zip ties, everyone needs zip ties
Wire snips.
Sheet metal snips or Dremel tool
The old 4 pin connector from your PFO power supply.
Electrical tape
A friend (optional)

Take off the covers of both PSs. You’ll see how the PFO is connected with 2 black on top and yellow and red on the bottom. Mark the orientation somehow (my friend used paint pens but you can use whatever works) because this is crucial to reassembly.

BE MINDFUL OF THE CAPACITORS

You can snip the wires off the old PFO connector and then remove it to make it easier to work with or just use the soldering gun to melt the old solder away and pull the wires out then remove the connector.

On the new PS, snip off all the connectors and leave enough (black, yellow, red and green) wire to reach where the 4 pin connector will be installed.

Gather all the YELLOW wires, use the zip ties, twist and solder the stripped ends together.
Gather all the BLACK wires into TWO EQUAL BUNDLES, use the zip ties, twist and solder the stripped ends together.
Gather all the RED wires, use the zip ties, twist and solder the stripped ends together.
Pull the GREEN wire apart from the rest, you’ll attach this (stripped) to the 4 pin connector body as seen on the old PFO unit.
Gather all of the other wires by color, don’t strip the ends to prevent a short circuit, tape the ends, tuck them away we don’t need them.

Cut the opening on the new PS to fit the 4 pin connector, this may take a little doing with a pair of snips or Dremel tool. Be sure to blow out any metal bits that may have fallen onto the circuit board.

Solder the Blacks, reds, and yellows to the 4 pin in the original orientation that you have marked.

Attach the 4 pin connector to the case and attach the green wire to one of the screws.

Put the case back on, plug in the Solaris and plug in the power supply, turn it on, Voila! PLEASE NOTE: You MUST plug in the Solaris unit to the power supplies BEFORE switching the power on. The reason is that the power supply requires that there is a "load" on the circuit prior to powering it up. If you forget this procedure, simply cycle the power back on after you have connected the Solaris unit. The power supply will not work if there is no load on the circuit.

bklynreefdude
04-30-2009, 11:57 AM
I'll just add that I'm not responsible for anything that goes wrong with this project. I'm no expert, it's just what I've learned off the web and through doing it. Good luck!


Matthew

Carty
04-30-2009, 11:58 AM
why would you mod it?? what do you get out of it?

bklynreefdude
04-30-2009, 12:02 PM
It's for when your power supply fails as a lot of owners (including me) have reported. Since PFO is gone, you either have to find a used one for sale (that will also eventually fail), throw out the entire lighting system, or mod a new power supply. If yours are fine, don't worry, yet.

CarmieJo
04-30-2009, 06:27 PM
Thanks Matthew! I'm glad that you are back up and running.

rayme07
04-30-2009, 09:53 PM
Thanks Matthew.

Carty
04-30-2009, 10:51 PM
I dont have a solaris, I was just curious

Amphibious
04-30-2009, 11:33 PM
Thanks Matthew! I get many inquiries about modding a Solaris power supply. I'll pass this info on.

Dick

xtmreef
05-04-2009, 02:46 AM
Hello,

I guess it would be easier (not to mention SAFER) if you can draw up a schematic diagram for our folks who are interested in this project.) Besides, you don't want those caps frying your hair... lol

Just a suggestion

fsp-jeff
05-15-2009, 05:24 PM
Hey guys,
I think this will lead you to exactly what you are looking for. He's currently providing an excellent service in creating a PFO original power supplies replacement. Please see my blog for his product (since he has no website or web commerce site). The only way I know how you can find him is thru calling him.

PFO Solaris lighting system, Reef Central, Thereeftank, talking reef Jeffrey’s View, Professionally (http://jeffreysview.wordpress.com/2009/05/07/pfo-lighting-system-reef-central-thereeftank-talking-reef/)

Thanks all, please pass this around to all the previous PFO customer if you find this a great link.

THanks.

Jeff

highdesertreef
05-17-2009, 05:21 PM
Does anybody know if its possible to get replacment LED sections for these fixtures?

bklynreefdude
05-19-2009, 12:22 PM
You can get in touch with Pierre at The Coral Corral, he's selling slightly used ones OR you can DIY. I'm trying this now and will post if I have success. FYI my modded supplies are working quite well so far, it's been a couple of weeks.

advresource
06-03-2009, 12:55 PM
What this guy is doing is exactly what PFO did. That's why we're all
getting the failures that we have been observing. All of the supplies
are good when used with a computer. However, with a Solaris lighting
system they will fail. They either will fail gracefully (just shut off)
or they may catch fire (which has been observed by some). People blame
the dust for the fire. Unfortunately, there's an application error when
using regular off the shelf power supplies that cause the failures over
time. Thus, I evaluated the system and determined the exact cause of
the failure. I worked with FSP, the power supply company, to implement
a design change to eliminate the problem.

If you know a little about electronics:
The supplies used are a switch mode power supply that uses a pulse width
modulator to chop the high voltage to convert it to a lower isolated
voltage. In this lighting application, the duty cycle gets too small
and makes the power switches cross conduct and eventually the power
devices will fail.

If you don't know about electronics:
The use of these types of off the shelf supplies will fail.

I like many people don't like to keep replacing parts that will continue
to fail. I paid $8000 for two sets of 72" lights. I am an electrical
design engineer. Thus, I like my nice things to both look nice and
last. (Also, wouldn't like the higher fan noise).

There are a lot of DIY's that can't afford to pay for a re-designed
power supply that works with our Solaris lighting systems so they're
willing to take the risk. Can't really blame them for that.

I hope this is a reasonable explanation,
Mark

advresource
06-03-2009, 12:57 PM
PFO Solaris lighting system, Reef Central, Thereeftank, talking reef Jeffrey’s View, Professionally (http://jeffreysview.wordpress.com/2009/05/07/pfo-lighting-system-reef-central-thereeftank-talking-reef/)


THIS IS THE FSP POST. FSP is the original manufacturer for PFO's power supply. GH and I series.

advresource
06-03-2009, 01:10 PM
http:// jeffreysview.wordpress.com/2009/05/07/pfo-lighting-system-reef-central-thereeftank-talking-reef/

bklynreefdude
06-03-2009, 01:17 PM
What "this guy" is doing is looking into T5/Halide combo lighting units.

advresource
06-03-2009, 02:00 PM
I see. We'll then, since you found out the hard way that the DIY lighting band-aid fix isn't quite the best solution, this post is currently misleading people. Good luck with the T5's.

bklynreefdude
06-03-2009, 02:26 PM
I never misled anyone (see my disclaimer) and I don't appreciate your tone. Perhaps that's why several of your posts were removed over at Reef Central. This thread was for an emergency DIY fix and I never guaranteed anything. The DIY power supplies are working but the system has given me enough headaches (and in general lacked enough overall performance for my needs) that I have decided to look into other lighting alternatives. Good luck with your system and your attitude.

advresource
06-03-2009, 02:46 PM
I just don't appreciate people without proper knowledge of power electronics giving power electronics advise without thorough investigation. Your post is misleading since it gives people the impression that you know what your doing. The disclaimer just provides an out for you but, doesn't stop you from giving poor advise.

I'm genuinely trying to help people since I both have the design knowlege and budget.

Good luck to you as well.

The posts were removed from RC since they thought I was a retailer. (which, I am NOT). Thus, the posts are back in RC.

advresource
06-03-2009, 02:47 PM
If I put in your DIY fix and it burns down my house. I surely wouldn't be happy. Just going back to your disclaimer would be very frustrating.

bklynreefdude
06-03-2009, 02:59 PM
The fire that I read was caused by the ORIGINAL PFO UNIT, not a DIY. What if I buy one that you're recommending and it burns down my house? I'll go ahead and have this thread removed since you are concerned about my limited knowledge causing harm, it certainly wasn't my intention.

advresource
06-03-2009, 03:21 PM
No disrespect intended. The original PFO supply was an of the shelf unit, just like the ones you've purchased. Switch mode power supplies all work conceptually the same. When the duty cycle that controls the output voltage goes out of control, the power devices are subject to stress. The stress will eventually cause failure. In the case of the lighting application, it takes a while. Some supplies fail right away depending on component integrity.

While the DIY fix may suffice for some folks that don't have the initial budget for a new redesigned supply, they should not think that they aren't taking risk both failure risk and possible fire risk.

I appreciate that you are trying to assist folks that are all feeling pretty abandoned by PFO. I too am a little distrubed that PFO isn't still in the business.

I believe that by keeping the post up that people can understand the level of risk. If the risk outweighs their budget, then the folks should do whatever they need to do.

I've been reading a lot from the RC, talking reef and thereeftank and have been amazed at the amount of mis-guiding information that has been propagated. - unintentionally, i"m sure!

If there are two computers, one that has a design flaw that causes a potential fire and another computer where the designers at IBM resolved the design flaw. Which would you buy? Even if the "potential fire one" was cheaper?

Sorry if you felt offended by my comments.

V
06-03-2009, 08:31 PM
i so thought i was going to have to buy tickets for the prize match.
ether that or i would have heard the sudden word "draw" :)

so because word seems to travel slowly down here, or my heads in the sand, whichever you believe first, i only just found out about PFO's recent issues last week actully, to which i still dont know the propper story. but thats another topic.

todays topic is sooo much more interesting. ok so lets read this in summery fashion shall we.

- BK has posted a solution regarding a DIY fix to a known humpty dumpty problem, at which stage being DIY he has not noted any dirrect problems so far. Standard disclaimer BS just so i dont point the finger in case my cat catches fire whilst cleaning itself near the hood & subsiquently sets the curtains & rest of the house on fire in a fireball kitty dance. :eek:
Right, im ok with that. surly noted. lets concentrate on putting the cat out cause its f%#king up my chi. !!

Then Advre waves a much bigger stick with the gentle nudge & drop hint of a career background on such things & has noted a solution in colaboration with FSP. Im sweet with that also, nothing like a pissing contest at the best of times, especially if you have the knowledge you can hit the further mark. In short - kudos to both for keeping it cival.

So, taken as a whole, ive got some nieve questions than might need some answering if you dont mind bud.


So if im getting this correctly, FSP designed the powerpacks on the earlier models, if so, why was the problem not identified on this issue during the R&D testing development stage prior to production?


What is your current standing order or relationship with FSD at this time?


Everyone's gotta eat, so dont misconstrue this question - are you viewing your technical background in a capitalising venture with FSD to correct this electrical design problem or are you a hobbiest first & formost. The reason im asking is beside the cutting your lunch factor, is there anything stoping you post up design specs or schematics detailing the fix for those that can perform the DIY themselves & your building services potential captures the rest.


Given the above question - You know how many units with this known issue have been sold. Knowing these # vaules, & given a responce to the above questions, whats the future business plan factoring in the comment of LED focus in the future
at any rate, i give thanks to anyone that takes the inititive!
People are ether apart of the problem, apart of the solution, or just apart of the landscape. A perminant solution for this new tech was called for. well done

advresource
06-03-2009, 08:53 PM
V. Taking one bullet at a time.
1. The problem was not identified first during design or production because PFO purchased off the shelf power supplies from FSP under the assumption that "if they work with computers then surely they'll work with the light LED's." - oops, bad assumption. Also, when they received the FSP units out of the box, they repackaged the units in their own enclosure which voided the manufacturers warranty, UL certification and FCC license. FSP weren't aware of the PFO repackaging. FSP did not partake in the design of the PFO system. They were a hardware supplier.

2. I have no relation with FSP other than the fact that I now have been purchasing power supplies with the fix from them. There's a minimum buy of 100 units which is equivalent to a number of 72" fixtures that I am currently storing to assist other reefers like myself.

Otherwise, there wouldn't be an option for all of us. I happen to have the engineering background, money and willingness to help.

The other relationship is that they have applied a new part number for our lighting systems to differentiate the ones being delivered to me from other standard pack computer and server supplies.

3. FSP will not post the schematic or specifications on the web. They make their money by selling power supplies. I am not at liberty to post any of their documentation without being sued. Since I'm just a reefer/hobbyist with good intentions, I am not willing to compromise my life or business.

If others want to pursue the expense and continue support of our hobby then I have no problem passing the batton. Turns out that Solaris support will die down quickly after the power supplies have been replaced with the new parts that have the design fix.

4. I don't have any association to PFO. Thus, I don't know how many units were sold. I know that I have 2 units that cost me $4000 each. I like the units and so do my corals. I would like to be supported, as would all of the people who bought the PFO units in good faith.

The business plan is that I continue forking out the cash for bundles of 100 units until there is not a future need. Perhaps, like Pontiac, Hummer and Saturn, the units will eventually go obsolete to new generations of LED light manufacturers. I just want to be able to amortize the cost of my lights over years and not months.

Does that help answer your questions?

advresource
06-03-2009, 08:56 PM
To elaborate on 1. I don't know why PFO didn't figure this out. The number of customers with failures would have warranted a recall in any other industry. They obviously knew the power supplies fail because each person calling in would typically just get a replacement from PFO without question.

advresource
06-03-2009, 09:01 PM
As for item #3. It does take me a lot of time (spare time) that I could be doing my hobbies like scuba, golfing, cycling, mountain biking, billiards, weight training, skiing, riding my Harley, theatre and fine dining amongst other things. I am not making money on this venture. Although, I'm sure that's what a few people are thinking. Remember, I actually own a national staffing company now. I don't just work for one.

I just like the hobby. I have a 240 reef tank with great equipment and coral. I don't plan on getting out soon or changing lights soon.

V
06-03-2009, 09:05 PM
yup more than adequate, thanks bud

whats the price tag on the fix if you dont mind me asking

advresource
06-03-2009, 09:08 PM
Also, to item 1. If PFO noticed a power supply problem during development, they probably attributed it to a faulty supply. PFO is a smaller scale specialty contractor. They probably did not do any HALT (Highly accelerated life testing) to effectively shake out the problems. Also, they probably didn't do any thermal testing or vibration testing since they just don't do that kind of thing in high volume manufacturing facilities (like China) very often. The unit was tested for lighting density and control pretty darn thoroughly. Thus, the units, when manufactured well, are excellent!!! They also didn't do the typical KPC process that would communicate to manufacturing which areas of assembly were extremely important to long term success of the units. (as seen with the thermal grease application of the LED's). There's probably more to speak of but, at this point I'll leave it to that...

advresource
06-03-2009, 09:09 PM
$200. + shipping. per supply.

V
06-03-2009, 09:25 PM
KPC im assuming is Kiloparsecs

hey you started this..lol , elaborate, what is this process

so when your saying the HALT benchmark testing, your effectivly saying they perform overclocking, but with electrical componentry

advresource
06-03-2009, 10:03 PM
KPC's refer to key product characteristic. In the case of the Solaris, it would have been the thickness and uniformity of thermal grease. There would have been a specification for grounding in the power supply. There would have been thermal mapping of LED's for a test procedure. Fan wires and wire routing would be another.

Halt testing is highly accelerated life testing. Thermal cycling (hot to cold and then to hot) a number of times stresses electrical components. This weakens wire bonds, solder joint and they may have been able to stimulate the failure. They also use step vibration in HALT testing to increase until failure. This process shows bonding location, wire routing defects and component placement defects.

The hardware validation testing would have been done to qualify the units. All electrical signals would be tested under temperature. Also, things like drop test, salt spray, sand and dust, relative humidity, etc. would have definitely caught the problem.

Expensive but, usually warranted engineering.

They would have created all of the faults such as: overvoltage, overcurrent, thermal overheat, short circuit, and all of the recovery tests to determine performance. This problem would have been caught.

However, it depends on whether they received the power supply specification and schematic from FSP. They might not have received detailed specification - who knows!

Questions welcome.

advresource
06-03-2009, 10:05 PM
They would have done tests to insure light output. Diode temperature etc.

V
06-04-2009, 05:28 AM
Thanks for the insight bud. that filled the void.

V
06-05-2009, 05:52 PM
you now Advre, given recent events in my personal life, financial redundancy stuff, ive given the corporate world a flick & have decieded to give the electrical "tradies are the new earners" world a go! if i find your full of sh^t with the whole knowedge thing, regardless of disclaimers im going to fly to the US of A & give you an aussie knuckle sandwich:tongue2:

advresource
06-06-2009, 05:18 PM
V,

Good luck with getting into the electrical trades. It's pretty easy for you to confirm this information by "Googling" the key words. I know that you won't be able to get the entire technical detail of the processes but, you can get a feel for whether the stuff I've mentioned is "focrap".

As for the inner design of switch mode regulators, you may have to attend the 4 year university with some specialty in power design. If you want indepth knowlege, you'd have to get some working experience in power supply design.

advresource
06-06-2009, 05:19 PM
and, that knowlege would cost a bit more than $200 bucks.

7perseo7
07-04-2009, 01:02 AM
i guess i have to agree with a few of the members here, this is a DYS post and if you want to post a mod
like REEfduude you should not bash him, post your own schematic and if you want to sell the improved power supplys by all means do it in the right place like for sale?
if anybody has a picture of one of the units you can post it here and i am sure one of the guys here can figure it out.
just my is my 2 cents.