I am new to the hobby of saltwater fish and reef tanks. I have decided to build a 55 gallon reef and fish tank. The dimensions of the tank are 48"x12"x20". I bought the tank from my former landlords who were moving back to their home state. It was originally used as a fresh water tank. There is still crud around the top of the tank and I will clean it with a mixture of vinegar and water.

I also purchased a brand new base and top stand for the tank because the old base stand could not hold a refugium. The stand is black and I have placed it inside a nook in my apartment.

Finally, I purchased an All-glass MegaFlow Wet/Dry Sump Model 2 with the intent on converting it into a refugium. I decided to use this unit because it was already pre-built and I don't have enough experience making my own custom refugium. From talking to others who are in the hobby they recommend the removal of the bio-balls, and place into that space either BioHome pellets and/or a white sponge filter with bags of carbon.

My next update will include my idea for plumbing the system as well as choosing an overflow box.

Looking good and welcome to TR. You have come to the right place to help you get started right. The only suggestions I would have for you is since it is an old FW tank make sure there isn't any copper residue left over from meds etc that may have been used in the tank. Also for myself I would skip the carbon/sponge filter (These may cause nitrate problems down the road) and look into getting as much LR as you can in your sump. Just my opinions like all of the other advice you have probably gotten so far.

:welcome: to TR Balorg! Glad that you found us. Setting up a new system is always an exciting time and it is full of decisions that must be made. Be sure to get the full benefits from TR by listening to the Podcasts, viewing Members' Tank Journals and following threads that may be interesting to you. The only thing that I also see that may be a draw back to the tank you plan on using, like IAreef stated, was the possibility of the previous owners using copper based treatments in the tank. Be sure to check the tank's seals real well and fill the tank up with water and let it sit for a few hours to make sure that it doesn't have any leaks. Sometimes moving around older tanks will cause seal failure.

Again, welcome to the family and we all look forward to your progress!

Quoting IAreef: "... it is an old FW tank make sure there isn't any copper residue left over from meds etc that may have been used in the tank."

Thanks for the tip regarding copper based treatments. If I can how would I test for copper and/or remove it from the tank?

Quoting Skurvey Dog: "Be sure to check the tank's seals real well and fill the tank up with water and let it sit for a few hours to make sure that it doesn't have any leaks. Sometimes moving around older tanks will cause seal failure."

I have tested the tank for leaks without any problems.

Quoting IAreef: "Also for myself I would skip the carbon/sponge filter (These may cause nitrate problems down the road) and look into getting as much LR as you can in your sump."

I agree that using LR instead of the sponge is a better idea. I wonder if the plastic screen can bear the weight of the LR?

Thank you all for the welcome to the site and forums!!!

Thanks for the tip regarding copper based treatments. If I can how would I test for copper and/or remove it from the tank?

I am under the impression that chemicals are absorbed into the silcone and I myself have not read any articles on how to test or remove them. Hopefully there are others here who have more knowledge in this area and can assist you.

I agree that using LR instead of the sponge is a better idea. I wonder if the plastic screen can bear the weight of the LR?

I think I know the sump you are referring to. What is the screen plate made out of and it looks like it is removable? You could try to find some light weight, highly porous LR rubble and place in that chamber. It will give you the volume and surface area with out the added weight. If that plate is delicate and can't support the weight, if it is removable, you could always replace it with a more durable/stronger DIY screen to serve the purpose. Just an idea, as I am not there and can not see the materials used in this system.

Thank you all for the welcome to the site and forums!!![/QUOTE]

You are always welcome! Can't wait to see it up and running. :up:

I am under the impression that chemicals are absorbed into the silcone and I myself have not read any articles on how to test or remove them. Hopefully there are others here who have more knowledge in this area and can assist you.

I found out that there are kits available to test for the presence of copper in water. What I can do is test for it when I fill the tank and sump to check for leaks in my plumbing. I will use either distilled water or RO water to eliminate potential contamination from my tap water pipes.

I think I know the sump you are referring to. What is the screen plate made out of and it looks like it is removable? You could try to find some light weight, highly porous LR rubble and place in that chamber. It will give you the volume and surface area with out the added weight. If that plate is delicate and can't support the weight, if it is removable, you could always replace it with a more durable/stronger DIY screen to serve the purpose. Just an idea, as I am not there and can not see the materials used in this system.

The screen plate is made of plastic squares that are 3/4" x 3/4". It looks like the same type of plastic used in covering work office lights.

Hi balorg and :welcome: to TR!

I found out that there are kits available to test for the presence of copper in water. What I can do is test for it when I fill the tank and sump to check for leaks in my plumbing. I will use either distilled water or RO water to eliminate potential contamination from my tap water pipes.

I would start out with the tank just filled with plain water, let it sit for a few days and then test for copper. That way if there is Cu you have not wasted a batch of SW. If it is present you can use CupriSorb (http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/CupriSorb.html) to remove it. Or you can remove the old silicon from the inside and re-silicon it.

The screen plate is made of plastic squares that are 3/4" x 3/4". It looks like the same type of plastic used in covering work office lights.
I think I have the same setup. I use the area above the plastic plate for a fuge. http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f198/CarmieJo/DSC_8281.jpg I have LR rubble below the plate. If you use it above the plate you want the rock to be submerged, not open to the air. (Yes Bobby, this is the same pix and I know my sump needs cleaned! I need to clean it and tank a new picture.)

Thank you for responding Carmie! Sounds like great advice!

CamieJo ---

Thank you for the advice concerning the potential copper problem. Should I let the tap water sit stationary in the tank or should I have come down my overflow box and into my sump (No LR, algae, sand, etc...) and be circulated?

Regarding the sump:
I don't have that model that you have posted in your response. I have the All-Glass MegaFlow Sump Filter Model 2.

Here is a link to an online store that sells the unit (I purchased mine for a lot cheaper at a LFS): MegaFlow Sump Filters, Wet-Dry Filters | Pet Solutions (http://www.petsolutions.com/MegaFlow-Sump-Filters+I15919000+C26.aspx)

I hope that this will give everyone a better understanding of what sump I will be using. It is the same type Amphibious used in his 135 gal tank but I believe he has either a Model 3 or Model 4.
Forum link: http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/member-tank-projects/412-amphibious-135-gal-reef.html
Picture link: http://www.theculturedreef.com/135gal-plumbing.jpg

I could place LR in place of the bio-balls, and then put down below it in the main chamber a 6" sand bed with some more small LR and micro algae to create the refugium. Finally the water would pass through the last blue sponge filter, and be pumped back up to the tank with a Mag1200 or Mag1800. I still don't know where I could put my Protein Skimmer at yet.

If I am way out in left field about this idea please let me know.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow night showing my progress.

I think I would circulate the water. As far as the sump goes, that sounds reasonable to me. You will have to be meticulous about keeping the sponge rinsed or it will build up nitrates.

welcome to the reef !! glad to have you aboard.


I agree that using LR instead of the sponge is a better idea. I wonder if the plastic screen can bear the weight of the LR?

Thank you all for the welcome to the site and forums!!!

you will want the LR to be completely submerged in the water or they (like the bio balls) will be completely useless and cause nitrate problems down the road. IIRC, carmie has removed her egg crate and the overflow drains into the rock, but the rock stays submerged in the water at all times.

Actually, my rock is below the egg crate and the caulerpa is on top of it. :) I don't have any additional sand in my sump.

Here are some pictures of what I have right now:

55 gallon tank (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25203826@N07/sets/72157604331733608/)

That is a good start!

Just bought some more components for my fish tank.
1. Mag 1200 Pump
2. CPR CS100 Overflow box w/ vacuum pump
3. 2x200 watt Jager Heaters
4. Two SCWDs
5. Protein skimmer.

They will arrive early next week, and I will continue with plumbing the system with screen shots.

Can't wait till next week for you! We're all photo hungry here! :tongue2: That's a nice set up you bought.

Got my supplies in today and I will start work on the tank tonight.

I for one look forward to seeing your progress, looks like you are starting off right.

Any updates?

I received my supplies and have now started the plumbing of the tank. The outlet consists of a 3/4" PVC pipe which come up from the sump and into two outlets for 3/4" flex hosing (including ball valves in case of a leak). I then have the two flex hoses going into two SWCDs and then into the tank. I am still having problems with the inlet pipe from the overflow box into the sump. I am wondering if I need to use PVC or flex hosing?

I did a dumb thing and accidentally dropped one of my heaters and the glass broke :(. So there goes some money right down the tubes.

I also just bought a used Coralife 48" Power Compact from another individual in town along with the mounts. The individual also works for the same company as me and he has agreed to sell me live rock and sand.

Well that's it for now. I will post more pics on flicker tomorrow night and post the link here.

You used to be able to buy tubes for heaters but IDK if you still can or not.

Newest Pictures added to current set (http://www.flickr.com/photos/25203826@N07/sets/72157604331733608/)

Cool deal that you know someone with an established tank. Thats a one-up for ya! :D

I went ahead and bought 20 gallons of RO water and dumped it into the tank. I will now let it set for about 2 days and then do a copper test to determine if that will be an issue.

Performed a Copper test on the RO water that has been sitting in the tank for the past 2 days. The test turned out negative for copper. I also went ahead and ordered another heater, as well as a smaller pump to get the water out of the tank, and to use it for water changes. I will drain the tank on Monday, and then finish my plumbing.

glad to hear about the copper, now the fun reallybegins:up:

IMO it is just as easy to siphon water from the tank as to use a pump. I do use a pump to a) mix SW and b) pump it from my Brute into my tanks.