Greetings all, I hope I can find some good help here.

I am a work study at WVSU and my newest duty is taking care of the two saltwater tanks that have fallen into disary. No one has consistantly taken care of the tanks in about 2-3 years, and things are pretty bad. Henceforth my new job is to start from scratch and try to get the tanks back up and running. The tank I am currently concerned with is a 150 gal tank. It was set up by a company called Charleston Reef. The tank has currently some polychaete's, and had a small snail and hermit crab. The snail and crab I have moved to the other salt tank until I can put them back-if I can find them again-. So onto my questions.

1) The "sump pump" that was used to pump the water from the filter underneath back up to the tank has fried. I assume that all the water evaporated out and with no more water the pump got to hot and gave up the ghost. It is customly plumbed in, but I can plumb well enough to plumb the new one in. I would like to know what a good brand and specs is for a pump for this tank.

2) Polychaetes. Even though I initially thought they were really large hydra, I like the little guys. Is there anyway to save them when I start draining the tanks? or will moving them to another tank distrupt them to much?

3) New animals. Since I am draining the tank and starting over from scratch, what are some good animals to put in the tank? I would like at least one extremely interesting fish that people "Oooooh" at when they walk by the tank.

Thanks!

http://pageoftruth.com/images/02-01-08_1022.jpg

http://www.pageoftruth.com/images/02-01-08_1024.jpg

the size of the return pump is going to depend really on the GPH that the overflow (s) are rated for. i dont see any overflow boxes in the tank, so i am guessing that there is an overflow box ?? the pump in the sump now looks like a mag9.5 but it could also be a mag7. i would recommend using the same pump that was in there to start with.

i dont know a lot about Polychaetes, so i will leave that question for others to answer.

as for the fish that everyone ooooohs and ahhhhhs about ... well in this hobby there are a lot of them. i personally like Hippo tangs, and Naso tangs. there are a lot of others though. i would google search for colorful marine fish.

First of all.. welcome :) You've started off on the right foot by starting your research here. Not only are there a lot of knowledgeable folks here, but they are very friendly and will NOT make you feel as if you are asking dumb questions...

The Mag brand pumps (which I think yours is) are good. Just research the flow rate/head loss/ that you want/need for your system and go from there. You need to understand the capabilities of the overflow system you have when you figure this out.

I used a Mag9 on a 75 Gallon with a real tall stand. I like my tanks at eye level. It worked wonderfully. Again, the Mag series, in a 9, 12, or better, depending on what you want to keep will be just fine. You want TONS of flow, to include the return and other water movement by way of powerheads, a closed loop system or something, if you are starting a true stony coral reef set up.

That system has macro algae etc. and seems as if it were a Fish Only with Live Rock kind of set up. Again, in that case, I'd still use good flow, but you'd not NEED as much as in a stony reef set up. Enough flow to keep the detritus etc. in the water column for good filtration, but that is really it. Personally, I like lots o' flow and would design the flow in tank the same, regardless of the set up.

If you are going to look to corals, we'd need to know more about your set up. What kind of lights? Power of said lights? Mechanical Filtration, if any (ie. skimmer, canister filter), The heater in the system..and what source you are using for fresh water for mixing salt water and for top off.

The little worms, dusters, etc. in the rock will do just fine if you can put the rock in a bucket/barrel or other container with salt water. They are pretty tough critters, making it into our systems by way of dry transportation and nasty water conditions for a bit. Yes, you may lose some, but not all. When you set up the new system, you'll be amazed at how they rebound.

Dave

I'm a little confused with your sump set up... it seems as if there is nothing in there but a return pump. Does the water actually overflow into there...or another chamber, and then pumped to there, and up? Typically, sumps designs clearly show an overflow pipe, and, at a minimum, a return (which you can see there). What's the flex line doing? Where does it come from and go to? Is there a filter or something under there?

Dave

When you get into "setting up", I'm going to push you for a deep sand bed too ;) There are a lot of differing thoughts on this, even in this same forum. You should read up on that (and a bunch of other stuff) and be ready to decide.

In any case, again, welcome, enjoy your research, take your time, and you'll do just fine.

Dave

From "looking" through the sump, it appears to have a bio-ball chamber at the back, we are looking at it from an end on-view. I am not a huge bio-ball fan and would advocate their removal unless you plan just on using this tank with fish and no corals. Bio balls are great aerobic zones and excellent at the reduction of ammonia into nitrite and nitrite into nitrate. However over time they accumulate detritus and beome nitrate producing factories. My only concern or curiosity is that I cannot see any overflow pipes actually going into the sump! A better picture and/or diagram of just how the water flows around inside your tank would be good.

Kind Regards

Thanks for all the help! You guys are great. I have made up a diagram of what all is in on and around the tank, I will scan it and upload it when I get home. Maybe that will help. Because There is a box on the back of the tank, but I think its just part of the filtration, not really an Overflow tank.

I will try best to explain how the sump is set up. But will still upload poorly drawn diagram later.
1) There is a small box/ tank on the end back of the aquar. that water is siphoned into. As water falls down to the sump. More water from tank is siphoned in. Water must also pass through a fibrous filter.
2) Water then falls into and through the BioBall section of the pump. Below the BioBalls is a "screen" that lets the water pass through freely.
3) When the water passes through this screen, it is immediately in the same section as the pump. The pump has another fibrous filter on it through with it is pumped back up into the aquaraium through two "heads"

I have decided that I would indeed like to keep this tank a reef tank instead of saltwater if this helps with your suggestions any.

:) There ya go... welcome to the "good side" lmao

Okay... the box on the back is an overflow box. So, Your tank is not drilled out or "Reef ready". You can stick with the overflow box, but you're going to have to get help on that from others. I've only had drilled tanks.

If you want to keep a reef, you are going to have to get that rock out, put it in a large trash barrell with salt water, a heater, and a pump for circulation. No light. The rock is COVERED in algae that is not condusive to reefs. It will smother any and all coral that you want to keep. I'm guessing that since you "inherited" this project, that you don't have, or want to spend more money.. correct? So new Live rock is out?

The return pump you need will be very similar to the one you are using. However, you really want to take all sponge filters etc. off of anything in the tank. They will trap detritus and such and become aerobic, nitrate factories. Same for the bio balls. Best to replace them, slowly, but in their entirety, with live rock or live rock rubble. The rock is going to help filter the water for you, much like the balls do/did, but they will encourage anerobic activity, that helps keep nitrate in check.

Again, what kind of lights do you have over this tank? Metal Halide? Compact Flourescent? OR the standard Normal Output, sold with most "off the shelf" tanks? This will make a difference.

Dave

Looking again at the rock, it seems as if some of it is not covered in too much invasive algae... IF the majority of the surface is alga free, you can clean it some, and keep a clean up crew to finish the rest and keep it at bay. If there is LOTS of algae, you may want to cook it back to clean.

Dave

Hi WVSU and :welcome: to TR.

Since you are draining the tank and starting over I don't think that you need remove the bio-balls slowly. I'd just take them out all at once.

I have CF Lights. I talked to a saltwater reef shop down the road from the college and they said that those were the kind we needed to be able to have coral and other reef plants and animals.

And the lots of money thing is correct. This project has been picked up and let down a numerous amount of times since the reef company that was taking care of it quit taking care of it, so the department is careful about putting money into this project.

He also had a few ideas that would make the tank better, one was a small electric eye setup that would refill the tank when the water got to low. (anyone know what this is called as I have forgotten? or where I could get a cheap one?)
The other thing was a set of water pumps for inside the tank that would alternate back and forth, creating a wave motion inside the tank. (Once again, forgot what it was called and looking for a cheap set)

This Friday I will be draining the tank and cleaning it. Is there anything special that I need to use to clean the tank with? anything I should specifically avoid? Should I even replace the sand in the bottom?

You guys have been great! I can't wait till I get started on the saltwater tank!

If you are going to completely drain the tank and clean it I would ditch the substrate, or if its decent looking, I would rinse it in fresh water and reuse it (flush out the crud). You may want to scoop a little of the top layer and keep it a plastic tub with some of the old tank water to reseed the cleaned tank with.

I would do the actual cleaning with a mix of vinegar and water. An old credit card will work well to safely scrape off the stubborn stuff.

I would do the actual cleaning with a mix of vinegar and water. An old credit card will work well to safely scrape off the stubborn stuff.

Any specific ratio of Vinegar and water? and any certain kind of vinegar?

distilled white vinegar. I dont usually measure but I guesstimate about a 30/70 ratio to in the favor of water. Some people use straight vinegar with a good fresh water rinse.

I use about 25% vinegar to water for soaking. If I'm scrubbing, I'll make it closer to 50/50. Give yourself enough time to rinse and clean it out well. Don't use any commercial cleaners at all. The old credit card trick is a good one for scraping corraline off of the rocks. Just ensure you don't drag any sand on the glass or you could scratch it.

I'd look into rinsing and reusing the sand, if it is not a low tide muck mix :) The rock will help reseed the sand bed with some stuff, but, if you have a nice colony of spaghetti worms or something in the sand bed, I'd try to save some of them in the sand like Jon said.

Compact Flourescent lights in a short tank like that, would give you options on keeping some corals and coralimorphs etc. You'd probably have a hard time keeping stony corals as they really do best under T-5, Metal Halide etc.

Dave

It sounds like you are up for a lot of fun at work.

Yeah, the fun part comes when i get to choose fish to go in it.

New question. Is it ok to use dechlorinator to do this job with? I nor the college has the setup or space to allow 120 gals of water sit around for 24 hours to dechlorinate. We do have a machine for e-pure water (distilled then de-ionized) would that work for filling up the tank? I know reverse osmosis is preferred but I don't think we have that kind of machine.

OK, list of things I need, If anyone has anything else to add, please speak up! (and fish will be added after the draining scraping and refilling is done)

Sump Pump
Power head/s (since one of the old ones is broke)
Salt
Live Rock/ rubble Filter
Plumbing supplies (For pump)
Distilled White Vinegar (For Scraping)

Also, does anyone know where the cheapest place to buy a Mag sump pump is if I can't get one donated?

Also, I am not familiar with this Live Rock or Rubble for a replacement for BioBalls. More details?

you should wait to add the fish to make sure that the tank is not going to cycle (i am willing to bet that it is). the cycle of a tank will likely kill most fish. mag pumps are a dime a dozen on classified forums on tons of websites (reefcentral.com ... reefs.org ... marinedepot.com ... the classifieds here are not very active, but hopefully that will soon change).

i think that the water you mentioned will be OK for you to use, but i would highly recommend getting them to invest in or trying to get an RO/DI unit donated. you can try buckeyefieldsupply.com for RO/DI units at a good price. they guys there are very nice to do business with.

you can place LR rubble in the space where the bio balls were for added fitration, BUT if it is not COMPLETELY submersed in the water they too will become nitrate factories.

you should wait to add the fish to make sure that the tank is not going to cycle (i am willing to bet that it is). the cycle of a tank will likely kill most fish.

Cycle?

with the rock being out of the water for a while when you are cleaning the tank ... some of the bacteria in and on it will die off causing what we call a mini cycle. listen to this podcast and it will explain it all to you ...

http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/podcast-episodes/146-podcast-episode-2-a.html

Cycling is the maturation process of the bacteria in the tank. Its a good thing, but the first stage of chemical break down produces ammonia which is highly toxic to fish. Once the tank and bacteria age a little they very quickly convert wastes from deadly ammonia to less harmful nitrite and nitrate.

I would keep the rock submerged in buckets or tubs of old tank water while you are doing the cleaning, This will minimize die off that will fuel the cycle. I would also use the E-pure, which should remove all the chlorine (if its properly maintained) and other bad stuff until you can secure your own RO/DI.

I think the e-pure water is reagent grade water for lab purposes and being distilled and deionized would be fine for the tank.

Once again guys, thanks for your help. I will be adding water this Friday, by then I hope to have the new sump pump installed, and a new plumbing setup for said pump as well. Any last minute advice? Anything I need to put in the water, aside from salt? Anything else I should do to prep the tank? This will be it and the rock's second week without water, but no worries, I have a new bag of live sand from the reef shop down the road to reseed the tank.