Hey all-

I finally decided to start a build thread on my new 55g tank. I'm pretty excited about this one, and pulled out a few stops when taking the plunge. This also makes me a bit nervous, because I can already feel the pressure to make something remarkable since a) I dumped a good chunk of change already, and b) I purchased a "turnkey" system that requires very little DIY. I'm going to have to earn some respect some other way... :p

First off, I would like to thank Rob, the TR staff and members for providing such a great resource and cultivating a supportive community. I would not have nearly as much confidence and knowledge without the encouraging backup.

The Tank

ELOS System 70 (http://www.eloseurope.com/en/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.elos_flypage&product_id=120&category_id=34&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=87)
ELOS SUMP 400 Marine
ELOS NS 500 Skimmer w. Eheim 1250 pump.
ELOS SQUARE stand.
ELOS Osmocontroller II
Eheim 1260 Return Pump
Ecotech Marine Vortech MP40 (http://www.ecotechmarine.com/products/mp40.htm) powerhead
PFO Solaris G series (http://www.solarisled.com/Home/tabid/36/Default.aspx) 24" LED fixture.
2x 150w Visitherm Stealth Heaters


The Goal

Up until this point, I have maintained a 24g Nanocube FOWLR tank. Like many beginners, I was nervous about keeping corals after reading (over and over) that water conditions must be more stable and nutrient poor than maintaining a tank with a few hardy fish. In retrospect, I fully agree with the "corals first" philosophy, since fish tend to muck up the water pretty fast. Now my nano seems stuck in a nitrate-laden state (~10ppm), most probably due insufficient flow, crowded aquascaping, and lack of refugium and/or DSB.

With that said, I have learned a great deal over the past year and one half about tank maintenance, ecosystems and poor tank design. This tank upgrade will hopefully satisfy the following goals:

1) Larger water volume - The System 70 DT holds about 48g to the overflow line. The sump I would estimate at 15g. With a DSB and 64# LR, I estimate that the system has almost 48g total water volume. This is nearly 3 times the water of my 24g.

2) Much better circulation - In a nanocube, the LR is often piled up against the back, or is crowding the sides. It is very difficult to get an interesting aquascape when trying to allow for good water flow all around the rock. The System 70 is much longer and wider, which alleviates this limitation. I also wanted to utilize wide-stream powehead(s), to help prevent laminar current.

3) Better lighting - The nano came with 72w of PC lighting, which is fine for FOWLR and perhaps a few softies, but not enough for a full-blown mixed reef tank. AIO Nanos are also prone to overheating when there is sufficient lighting, due to the enclosed lid with insufficient ventilation.

4) Simple damnit - I am not a fan of power cords or plumbing tangles. Every decision I make about what to include takes into consideration the added gain/convenience versus complexity of appearance and maintenance. I want to make sure reefkeeping is enjoyable and that the system have as few points of failure as possible. I also wanted to keep water changes at or below 5g per week.

5) Denitrification - AIO Nanos allow very little room to facilitate the processing of nitrates into nitrous oxide. I hope to utilize an effective DSB and a macro-algae refugium in the new tank.

6) Coral Husbandry - More than anything, my main goal with this tank is to support a thriving environment for corals. I will probably start with the more hardy corals, such as Mushrooms, Ricordea and some other soft corals, and later expand into some stony branching corals. I seem to be attracted to color and movement, which probably labels me as a total noob.

---

Enough intro. Here's a few pictures of the cycling tank. I have been experimenting with flow rate from the Vortech pump, which can create major troughs in the sand with its wide flow (depending on speed and placement). The pictures show nearly 105# of 0.2mm<->1.2mm aragonite sand. After some initial settling, I added another 15# to bring the substrate to a 4" depth. I also have some adjustments to make on the Solaris light fixture mount. The tank has been cycling for almost 1 week.


http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/front071025.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/left071025.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/right071025.jpg

Cool!! But isn´t the light a little too purple?

Cool!! But isn´t the light a little too purple?

Thanks. I took the picture thinking that the color balance was pretty close to what was seeing, but I have never had a "20k" equivalent fixture before. The fixture is currently at its default factory settings:

100% Day White
100% Day Blue
100% Lunar White - these look greenish compared to the lunar blue.
100% Lunar Blue

I will double check the color balance of the photos when I get home.

-Scott

oki:-) looking forward 2 see more pics:-)

I chose two very large (35#, 25#) pieces of live rock for the main display. The LFS had the rock curing for about a week. The rock was fairly clean, with some evidence of dead macro and micro algae, as well as encrusted mussels, coraline and some brown spots that reminded me of brown wafer algae. I had the LR in a heated and circulating plastic brute pail for almost 3 weeks before placing it into the DT. I tested several times, recording at first the presence of a small bit of Ammonia but a huge nitrite spike, then later ammonia and nitrite settling to zero, with Nitrates around 5ppm.

Now that I have had the LR in the main display for a week, my tests are about the same (0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5ppm Nitrate.) I have never had a DSB before, and I assume I am going to wait 4-6 weeks for this tank to settle in, but I am wondering if there is not enough putrefaction in this tank to start things off.

I have read Eric Borneman post that he likes to "feed" his tanks during the intial cycle, and I recall the oft mentioned rotting table shrimp nod in this forum - which probably amount to the same thing. Should I do the same, or just let the mostly cured LR do its thing?

Thanks,

-Scott

Cool!! But isn´t the light a little too purple?

LOL. I think I figured it out. I was looking at my other photos and realized that the sun was probably reflecting off a bright orange barrier fencing that we have outside for our deck repair! You can see the fence in the following photograph, as well as some splash of the orange light on the doorway molding and fixture. This is why the light and shadows of the right end of the tank are more purple than the left hand edge...

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/orangeFencing.jpg

Absolutely gorgeous. The first time I saw an ELOS tank i was stunned. They ooze quality. I like what you've done and look forward to many more posts!

I chose two very large (35#, 25#) pieces of live rock for the main display. The LFS had the rock curing for about a week. The rock was fairly clean, with some evidence of dead macro and micro algae, as well as encrusted mussels, coraline and some brown spots that reminded me of brown wafer algae. I had the LR in a heated and circulating plastic brute pail for almost 3 weeks before placing it into the DT. I tested several times, recording at first the presence of a small bit of Ammonia but a huge nitrite spike, then later ammonia and nitrite settling to zero, with Nitrates around 5ppm.

Now that I have had the LR in the main display for a week, my tests are about the same (0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5ppm Nitrate.) I have never had a DSB before, and I assume I am going to wait 4-6 weeks for this tank to settle in, but I am wondering if there is not enough putrefaction in this tank to start things off.

I have read Eric Borneman post that he likes to "feed" his tanks during the intial cycle, and I recall the oft mentioned rotting table shrimp nod in this forum - which probably amount to the same thing. Should I do the same, or just let the mostly cured LR do its thing?

Thanks,

-Scott

Scott,

Great looking system. I love the look of the tank as well as with two large pieces of LR instead of a lot of little pieces piled up on each other. When i set up my new 60g, i was lucky enough to find 2 larger pieces to add to my collection, but the were 20# and 15#, but they are the centerpiece of my liverock work.

I have used the dead shrimp method of cycling a tank. I think that if in another week or so, your ammonia is still at 0, I would add one hole, raw shimp to get the ammonia prodcution started. If you see the spike, then probably no need, but after one week, I would think that you would start to see some ammonia in the system.

Good luck! Look forward to seeing the progress.

John

Danamck & John-

Thanks for the compliments. I hope my husbandry will do the tank justice.


When i set up my new 60g, i was lucky enough to find 2 larger pieces to add to my collection, but the were 20# and 15#, but they are the centerpiece of my liverock work.

I found the two pieces of Marshall Island LR at Vivid Aquariums, the one LFS I prefer in the area. Their LR prices were more than I remember, and perhaps more than they should be considering LA is probably the import capital of LR for the country. Never the less, I was really happy with the pieces and was willing to commit.

I really like the less complicated look of a few monolithic pieces, but I quietly panic a bit when I suspect that many corals for purchase already come mounted on rock. Incorporating those rocks may be a bit challenging. I assume that small frags are less of an issue.

Also, if I ever had to move this tank when it is well occupied by corals, it would be far more complicated if the corals are all mounted on a single huge rock.

Any guidance/suggestions?

Absolutely gorgeous. The first time I saw an ELOS tank i was stunned. They ooze quality. I like what you've done and look forward to many more posts!

Thanks again. ELOS tanks are nice, and I like the sump and skimmer as well. Solid build, and minimal fuss. The stand is great for a MDF style knock-down variety, but I was very close to building a new custom stand to accommodate some ideas...

During the cycle I will attempt to post an objective overview/first impressions of my sump & stand, followed by the Vortech and Solaris.

-Scott

Scott, your tank is beautiful.

Hey Scott,

Love the Elos tank. While I love a variety of sizes when it comes to LR, I also like a few large pieces. I was in Hawaii a few years ago and found a large beautiful piece of coral rock 3/4's buried in the sand on a beach. The end sticking out was intriguing so, I dug it out. It was a really cool piece. So cool, I spent $45 to ship it home. I know about paying for just the right rock. Yours are beautiful. Nice light, too.

Dick

Thanks Carmie and Dick for the kind words,

And also thank Dick for the fantastic Solaris G, which I purchased through him at the best price I have seen. Dick's customer service is also outstanding.

Speaking of the light, I am having one problem. Any time I have the light on, it seems to trip my plug-in 15 amp GFCI. It usually happens well after I turn it on, but sometimes as soon as I turn it on. All my electrical equipment is completely bone dry, so I don't know why this is happening. I thought it may have something to do with a UPS I was using, but I have bypassed that and I am still having the problem. :(

I had a similar problem with my nano a while back, and the problem seemed to happen when I was using a particular timer I had purchased. I replaced the timer, and everything was fine. This setup is a totally different outlet, GFCI, and equipment.

For now, I may try getting a second plug-in 15A GFCI just to run the fixture on. This way, if the light causes a false trip, at least it doesn't cut power to the rest of the setup.

-Scott

I was in Hawaii a few years ago and found a large beautiful piece of coral rock 3/4's buried in the sand on a beach. The end sticking out was intriguing so, I dug it out. It was a really cool piece. So cool, I spent $45 to ship it home.

Isn't there a Hawaiian God (of Tourism) who curses those who plunder the islands? :p

Wow! I'm stunned! Awesome tank! I can't wait to see what kind of creatures you put in it! :D

When I transferred the LR from the 44g Brute container it was cycling in, I noticed a large amount of debris on the bottom. Lightly sifting through it, I found a hitchhiker I was already familiar with from my nano - a Peanut Worm (Sipuncula) (http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/sipuncula/sipuncula.html). He had escaped his burrow in the LR, but he still looked viable - so I placed him on top of the LR in the DT, hoping that he would find a new hole to inhabit. The next day he was gone, so I assume he succeeded.

What I discovered a few days later was another familiar sight, Peanut Worm poop on my substrate. The interesting thing is that the poop, elongated tube-shaped rods, are all over the tank - settling into loose piles. There were varied sizes as well, most being extremely thin (much thinner than I have ever seen in my nano), and some medium thick (nothing compared to the 3-4 veterans I have in my nano). The shear number of thin poops lead me to believe that I have a potentialy large number of young Sipuncula in this new tank... which I am quite happy to see. The leaving piles are also helpful in showing me the potential "dead spots" in my tank.

When I returned home last night, I looked into the dark tank and discovered 3 tiny Peanut worms inhabiting the same 3/4" nub of LR! I hope they are good neighbors...

Here's a picture of one of several "collecting sites" of Sipuncula feces in my tank.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/peanutPoop.jpg

Wow! I'm stunned! Awesome tank! I can't wait to see what kind of creatures you put in it! :D

Thanks Clarence,

Like I said earlier, I like color and movement. If it doesn't move, it better be colorful...:)

Seriously, my focus this time will be on corals. I have no experience keeping corals, but I am trying to do ample research into hardy, colorful corals. Lots of my inspiration is based on looking at and reading about other people's tanks. The internet is a godsend for this research.

Nothing is for sure, except going slowly and doing ample research. Possibles (pending more research) include:

A variety of Mushrooms and Ricordea
Purple Tip Frogspawn (Euphyllia paradivisa) - Aggressive I've read
Green Wall Hammer Coral (Euphyllia ancora) - Also aggressive...
Lord Acanthastrea
Blastomussa
Fungia Plate Coral
Fluorescent Green Star Polyps

I really like colorful Zoanthids as well, but I am currently researching the toxicity of corals. My wife and I are not that fond of having potent neurotoxins in proximity to my young children.

As far as branching stony coral are concerned, the following species have caught my eye:

Superman Encrusting Montipora (montipora tuberculosa)
Vivid Green Stylophora (Stylophora pistillata)
Green Tip Birdsnest Coral
More colorful Acropora species (such as Acropora Tortuosa)

---

As far as fish are concerned, I'd like to keep them small, sparse and reef safe. I have a few fish and critters that will come from the old tank (including Ocellaris Clown & Spotted Cardinal). I have a thing for Sixline Wrasses and Longnose Hawkfish, and my daughter wants a star (the spotted Linckia being he only one that I have read doesn't routinely starve to death in captivity and is reef safe). Lastly, I think Tuxedo and Black Long Spine urchins are really neat, and my wife thinks Clams are rad...but I do not know enough about either yet...

Oh, and did I mention that I love critters... :)

Nothing is for sure, except going slowly and doing ample research. Possibles (pending more research) include:
...
Green Wall Hammer Coral (Euphyllia ancora) - Also aggressive...
...


I've just been reading about the toxicity of Hammer corals, which may rule them out as well...

Temp 78.0
pH 8.48
SG 1.026

NH3/NH4 - 0 (Same)
NO2 - 0 (Same)
NO3 - 5 (Same)
PO4 - 0 (Same)

Alk - "High" (This Red Sea test kit to be replaced with one that measures in units of dKH)
Ca - 390 (First test)

100% Reef Crystals Mix. (702 grams/5 gallons)

I've just been reading about the toxicity of Hammer corals, which may rule them out as well...

That's too bad about the hammer as they are one of my favorites, though i understand your concerns. i have read that some human can have an alergic reaction to the sting of the hammer, but mostly the toxicity of the coral is more in conjunction to its relationship with ohter corals in teh tank.

Anyways, looking forward to seeing the progression of your tank.

Thanks Carmie and Dick for the kind words,

And also thank Dick for the fantastic Solaris G, which I purchased through him at the best price I have seen. Dick's customer service is also outstanding.

Speaking of the light, I am having one problem. Any time I have the light on, it seems to trip my plug-in 15 amp GFCI. It usually happens well after I turn it on, but sometimes as soon as I turn it on. All my electrical equipment is completely bone dry, so I don't know why this is happening. I thought it may have something to do with a UPS I was using, but I have bypassed that and I am still having the problem. :(

I had a similar problem with my nano a while back, and the problem seemed to happen when I was using a particular timer I had purchased. I replaced the timer, and everything was fine. This setup is a totally different outlet, GFCI, and equipment.

For now, I may try getting a second plug-in 15A GFCI just to run the fixture on. This way, if the light causes a false trip, at least it doesn't cut power to the rest of the setup.

-Scott
Thanks for the kind words, Scott. We try our best to be the best in customer service and satisfaction.

About your light problem. Call PFO - 800 577-9690 ext 17, you will reach Carla, my PFO Rep. Explain the problem you are having and she will probably put you through to Pat.

Isn't there a Hawaiian God (of Tourism) who curses those who plunder the islands? :p
Yes, the Hawaiian god of Tourism turned out to be a woman and I wined, dined and wooed her so she let me plunder that rock. :rotfl:

Dick

That's too bad about the hammer as they are one of my favorites, though i understand your concerns. i have read that some human can have an alergic reaction to the sting of the hammer, but mostly the toxicity of the coral is more in conjunction to its relationship with ohter corals in teh tank.

I haven't ruled out the hammer, I'm just weighing precautions. Two more concerns:

Borneman suggests in Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History that Euphyllia may be over-harvested, indicating that Euphyllia as a group represent a significantly larger percentage of imported corals than the numbers found in nature.

Borneman also mentions that E. Ancora may reproduce by releasing its sweeper tips. The tips stick to a variety of surfaces, and may generate into a new colony. The released tips can also cause problems by harming organisms that they touch...

Yes they are toxic but most of the time unless you have an allergic reaction to their touch or an open wound they won't harm you. They only release these toxins when they are warring with other corals. Better to be safe than sorry I guess. My significant other has also expressed these concerns when we have children one day. I have a simple solution for this, keep the tank out of their reach and when they do get old enough to be able to stick their hands in the tank, educate them about the animals and what they are capable of. You might get a nice little helper one day to do water changes with you or better yet for you! :)

I haven't ruled out the hammer, I'm just weighing precautions. Two more concerns:

Borneman suggests in Aquarium Corals: Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History (http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Corals-Selection-Husbandry-Natural/dp/1890087483/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-3753445-7655866?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1193936715&sr=8-1) that Euphyllia may be over-harvested, indicating that Euphyllia as a group represent a significantly larger percentage of imported corals than the numbers found in nature.

Borneman also mentions that E. Ancora may reproduce by releasing its sweeper tips. The tips stick to a variety of surfaces, and may generate into a new colony. The released tips can also cause problems by harming organisms that they touch...

Do you own/recomed that coral book. I have been looking for agood book on corals.

I agree that propogated corals are the way to go. Vivid has a lot of smaller LPS corals like the Anchor. i am not certain if they are frag'd or not, but you may want to ask them. I know it is possible to propogate LPS, though a bit had.

John

Do you own/recommend that coral book. I have been looking for agood book on corals.

I get the impression that Aquarium Corals is considered a seminal work. I am reading it now. Apart from an introduction to corals and a review of the Families, Genera and Species, there are chapters on Husbandry, Water Chemistry, Care & Handling and Diseases. It is an encompassing reference. Don't just take my word for it; there are 44 reviews on Amazon, virtually all with a 5 star rating.

Sprung & Delbeek's The Reef Aquarium series (Vol 1&2) may be more exhaustive (go into more detail), but has not been impervious to reader scrutiny. I have Vol 3 of that series which is very impressive, but is about the science and construction of reef biotopes, not its inhabitants. I am certain that I will someday pick up Vol 1 and 2 as well.

I agree that propogated corals are the way to go. Vivid has a lot of smaller LPS corals like the Anchor. i am not certain if they are frag'd or not, but you may want to ask them. I know it is possible to propogate LPS, though a bit hard.

Good idea - I will ask.

-S

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/elosSkimmer.jpg

This is the ELOS "Natural Skimmer" 500 (http://www.eloseurope.com/en/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.elos_flypage&product_id=42&category_id=12&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=87) that comes with the System 70, complete with a Eheim 1250 pump. The NS 500 is a variation of the popular venturi injection method that ELOS entitles "Top Down Injection System" or TDJ for short. I am not sure if this makes it special or typical, but ELOS certainly markets it as being unique. My jury is out until I start seeing it produce decent skimmate...but here's a video (http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n85/Nuuze/?action=view&current=MOV07037.flv) of the NS 500 model from another user that looks promising.

The unit came to me with a bit of manufacturing debris in the main chamber, which was easily removed by unscrewing the thumbscrews to access the interior. Despite this, the skimmer is extremely well built. The Collection cup sits on the main chamber with just a slight lip holding it in place, which makes the cup easier to remove in tighter spaces.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/skimmerDebris.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/innerChamber.jpg

After the initial sandstorm, I have been running the skimmer while the tank is establishing its cycle to help produce a biofilm in the chamber for when the water really gets polluted. The skimmer has not produced much in the first week. I assume this is because my LR was pre-cured for 3 weeks before putting it into the tank.

I have read that this skimmer's Venturi needs periodic cleaning in order to work optimally. Specifically, the end air inlet tube should be dipped into some warm RO/DI water while the skimmer is operating. The water will be drawn up the tube and will help clear the tube of salt crystals that may build up and constrict the airflow.

One thing that I really like about this skimmer is how easy the large round collection cup is to clean. I have a OXO bottle brush that is the perfect size for this, and with just a few revolutions to wipe the cup and a few strokes to clean the riser tube, I am done. This is so much easier than my rectangular Remora cup with all its corners.

The air injector inlet is tuned by screwing the threaded end cap. Bubbles are bigger when the cap is off or loose, and finer when the cap is tight. Once the water has dissolved organics, I will spend some time getting the right setting.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/airInlet.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/inletCap.jpg

that's a nice plan.... can wait to see the out come

Nice looking skimmer. Let us know how it works.

Do you own/recomed that coral book. I have been looking for agood book on corals.


John

This is a good book. The Site Navigation Panel to the left has a link to the TR Library with books suggested by members and is a good place to start when you are looking to add to your library.

Well I have not updated the tank thread in a while. Here's a summary on how things are going:

Water parameters are still the same. Nitrates at 5 ppm. My salinity was a wee bit high at 1.027, so I have gradually reduced this back down to the optimum 1.026. I am currently using ESV B-Ionic to help raise/maintain calcium/trace ions and alkalinity. Right now my Salifert Ca test results are 380.

I seem to be the only one I know who has a DSB in an ELOS tank. :eek: Slowly, gas bubbles are appearing on the edges of the tank. I have seen some clumping in the sand that was revealed by one trough created by my Vortech. Should I break the clumps when I see them? All in all - the sandbed is definitely forming a bio-film. The sand does not get blown like it used to. I will be ordering some micro-fauna from IPSF (http://www.ipsf.com/index.html) based on Amphibious's rec.

Two minor diatom blooms have come and gone. The two fighting conch I have make quick work of the brown dust. I have several types of algae that I find curious. I will take a set of pictures and post them soon.

I installed the ELOS Osmocontroller II that came with the tank. I quickly broke the glass snail guard. I thought it was plastic, and I tried to mount the guard onto some egg crate in order to avoid using the suction cups it came with. I pulled on the zip-tie firmly and PING! - the guard cracked in half! Oops. A new guard would cost me $12, but I would just find a way to break it again. Therefore, I devised a new (rock solid) mount for the sensor that I was pleased with. I ended up using a Maxi-jet bracket and rim clip and fastened them (quite soundly) to some eggcrate. All I have to say is that Zip-ties are fantastic when one is trying to avoid using adhesives.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/sensorHolder.jpg

The Osmocontroller draws water from the ~4.6g reservoir and pumps it into the sump for a certain number of seconds, adjustable by the user. The time limit helps to safeguard the Sump from being filled in error. Seems to work well so far. My evap is at about 3/4 gallons per day, so the reservoir should last about 6 days. I have never had a ATO, so I really am enjoying the one less task to perform.

Here's a pic of the built-in reservoir and the ATO pump:

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/reservoir.jpg

More to come...

I will be ordering some micro-fauna from IPSF (http://www.ipsf.com/index.html) based on Amphibious's rec.I received my order from Indo Pacific Sea Farm about 2 weeks ago. Everything came in alive and in good shape. I am so pleased with the Micro Hermit Crabs, I've ordered 100 more of them from IPSF.

The reason is, they are eating my problematic Bryopsis algae. I received about 10 of them. Six of them wound up on the same rock and stayed their. That rock is now devoid of all traces of Bryopsis. YEA!!! I have battled this for 12 months or more. I haven't done a tank thread upgrade since 12/'06 because of it. I seem to have it under control (before the micro hermits were added) but it will not go away. Now, it appears, the hermits will erradicate the bitchin stuff.

Be sure and get some of these.

Dick

I am so pleased with the Micro Hermit Crabs, I've ordered 100 more of them from IPSF.

The reason is, they are eating my problematic Bryopsis algae.

...

Be sure and get some of these.

Thanks for the tip.

Are micro-hermits smaller (and less bully-ish) than typical hermits? I ask because I always read that hermits can be trouble makers toward small inverts, picking on snails and causing some corals to slime when they walk all over them. I now have 3 red-legged hermits that are very small, and somewhat harmless, but their contribution to the tank is not obvious. I have found them picking on some overturned Astraea in the past.

The micro-hermits sound very cool.

These are really tiny hermits...

http://www.theculturedreef.com/MicroHermit-12-07-1.jpg

I believe this is full grown. I'm told they are herbivorous in nature. They may fall prey to larger hermits and some aggressive fish but are reef safe.

Dick

Great photo...I will definitely order some of those.

IPSF is like a candy store. I should just be buying the Live Sand Activator Plus, but then when you add the standard $29 shipping, you might as well get the Mix-N-Match (with Free shipping). Once you do that, you think to yourself, I want some mini-stars and more mama-mias, and then suddenly your order is $140. :wow:

Seriously Amph, how did you like the Wondermud? Find any cool critters inside? If so, please elaborate...

Thanks!

I didn't get the wondermud. I did get the Live Sand Activator Plus and found 5 more Micro Hermits, 3 small snails, 4 Mini Stars and Pods galore. Yes, my order hit $140. I got confirmation today the 100 Micro Hermits are on the way, $129.95. A small price to pay if they do the job on the Bryopsis.

Hey all,

I wanted to express my thanks to drfostersmith.com. Even though I generally can get things much quicker from Los Angeles based Marine Depot and their drygood selection is not always as deep, I prefer them for their eco-packaging, fair shipping rates on heavy items and good customer service. Today they exceeded my expectations...

I recently called about an order I placed for a bucket of Reef Crystals. The shipment was supposed to arrive in 5-7 days, and I was already on day 7 with an expected delivery on day 9. I wanted to make sure the bucket would arrive by Friday, since I was running low on SW and the tank was overdue for a WC. The FedEx tracking made it seem as though USPS was handling the package(?), and the tracking indicated that it went from WI to CA and then to GA(!). Whoops.

I called F&S, and they offered to send me out another package of salt, at no charge. I assumed they were rushing a smaller bag of salt to me overnight, but they actually sent me another bucket!!! I received the original shipment on day 9 (Friday), so it did not matter that the courtesy bucket did not arrive until today.

Wooohoo!!!

The mounting of my Solaris LED fixture to the ZeroEdge Lamp Tree wasn't perfect. To make a long story short, the vertical arm touches the back of my tank and the fixture does not mount flush to the cross-bar because the curved part of the arm acts as an obstruction.

I've been thinking for several weeks on the best way to rectify this, and I assumed that hanging the fixture from the cross-bar with cables was my only solution.

Low and behold, I receive an email from the ZeroEdge rep today asking about a previous inquiry and was wondering how the install went. I explained about the obstruction and how the arm touches the back of the tank, and he replies that he has some mounting spacers he can send me for the lower bracket (that attaches to the stand) and another for the cross-bar to alleviate the obstruction.

This is super sweet, since I am never satisfied with my DIY kludges...

Keeping fingers crossed...

Wow, 2 examples of over the top customer service! I don't know why it is so hard to find companies that want to get and keep your business.

Being from WI, I did business with Drs F&S plus visited their facility several times. When I can't supply a customer with something they are wanting to buy I always refer them to F&S knowing they will receive the kind of service you experienced. Drs. F&S are first class in my book.

It's good to verify that Zero Edge took care of your other concern, too, since I represent them. I had one other customer with a major problem and they took care of it without question.

There are good people out there.

Dick

I have dealt with both Marine Depot and Drs. Foster & Smith, and have them them both to be fantastic companies. Any problems or mis-ships have been addressed quickly and professionally. With the quantity I need to purchase supplies in, they have both saved me loads of money. Which I used to buy more fish and corals!

I needed to light a sump chamber for Chaeto, so I suspended a Trouble Light (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=693) over the chamber and installed a 18w Fluorescent Flood bulb to shine straight down. The bulb was about 6" above the water surface, but the bulb reflector cracked within minutes - presumably when some spray hit the warm bulb. I am not really sure how Melev and others use these bulbs for this purpose, unless the bulb I was using was unusually intolerant.

Scrapping that plan, I remembered that Nano Customs has an LED Fuge Light (http://www.nanocustoms.com/product_info.php?cPath=17&products_id=19). 5w total (5 x 1w LEDS), 6500k, supposedly as bright as a 18w Fluorescent. Pretty expensive, but the dimensions are perfect for lighting the chamber from the front of the sump. A nice touch is that the fixture is built with two heavy duty (marine?) velcro tabs and comes with two self-adhesive velcro strips to mount to your tank/sump.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/fugeLight.jpg

I received the light two days ago, and installed it. I am impressed by the build quality. Solid like a brick. The heat sink inside is all aluminum. The LED array appears precisely spaced, and the power cord is a hefty 18/3 insulated/grounded cord. The only thing I would criticize is that the rocker switch appears not to be sealed/water resistant. The fixture is designed to be installed vertically, with the rocker switch on the top most end. If water were to drip on the fixture, it is possible that some could get in through the hairline crack around the switch. Since I'll have the fixture plugged into a timer, I may just cover up the switch with some tape.

Here's the light in its new home, lighting up some cozy Chaeto:

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/system70construction/fugeLightInPosition.jpg

Thats a nice light. It looks much better than the curly CF bulb in a clamp on aluminum reflector I light my fuge with. I had one crack (but not shatter) when it got dropped but I've never had any other problems.

Do you have a link to that light, Scott?

Do you have a link to that light, Scott?

Sure: NanoCustoms 5.1 Refugium Light (http://www.nanocustoms.com/product_info.php?cPath=17&products_id=19)

At $89, it is a bit expensive...but well built and nearly zero heat. It also provides me with enough illumination for my sump maintenance. FWIW, It will save me $6-$7 dollars a year over a 18w fluorescent based on S. Cal electricity rates.

NanoCustoms was good to deal with for this order. They called me immediately after the order to inform me that there was a 3-4 day delay due to a part they were waiting on. By the time I got to work, my light had already shipped because another customer cancelled.

-Scott

Temp: 79.5f
Salinity: 1.026
ph: 81.2
Ca: 385 ppm (Slowly climbing)
NO3: 5ppm (same)

Alk: Still contemplating new test kit. Red Sea Kit still reads "Normal", but I do not exactly trust its crude assessment. I read about some recent problems with the Salifert Alk kit on RC (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1117617), so I am a bit weary of that. Looking into an alternative, such as LaMotte, ELOS...or perhaps API?

What about SeaChem? I'd like to see more articles like this: Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine - Product Review: Alkalinity Test Kit Showdown (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/8/review)

What about SeaChem? I'd like to see more articles like this: Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine - Product Review: Alkalinity Test Kit Showdown (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/8/review)

Thanks for the link Carmie. The Seachem Alk kit seems promising according to that article. The titration style tests are so easy to assess. The only thing I worry about is that there are no expiration dates on the reagents. If you happened to get old stock from a vendor, you might experience questionable results. Probably nothing to worry about though.

ELOS reagent batches are tested by NIST (National Institute of Standard and Technology) for accuracy. Seems pretty appealing, although more expensive. ELOS kits (http://www.eloseurope.com/en/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.elos_flypage&product_id=22&category_id=7&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=87) should be available through MD soon.

I have read that they will replace the reagents if you suspect that they are not fresh. I have the ReefStatus Mg kit and I think it is well done.

Temp 79.5f (will be raising this to 81-82f gradually)
Ph: 81.6 (Swings between 81.5 - 82.4)
Salinity: 1.026 (Reef Crystals)
Nitrate: 1.0 ppm (Salifert - previous 2.5ppm. Whoop!)
Phosphate: undetectable.
Cal: 390ppm (Salifert) - slowly raising with B-ionic. (15ml each solution per day)

Notes: Pretty happy with results, but need to get new Alk kit (still). Waiting for Elos kits at MD, but it looks like they did not arrive. :(

Over the past 18 days I've had my Chaetomorpha growing under the new fuge light, and things have really started to take off. I couldn't seem to grow the stuff under my "20k" tank lights (even though several other forms of algae are growing), but under the 6500k LEDs, the Chaeto has relaxed from its very tight curls and roughly doubled in size. I will have to trim it shortly to keep it from overgrowing the chamber.

Every day or so I turn and/or flip the Chaeto to make sure all sides get some light.

I am not sure how fast Chaeto can grow, but I am pretty happy with the results.

Some other small notes:

1) Set up a QT tank at work. Decided to go with a 10g, but may expand to 20g if needed. Read more about it in this developing QT Survey (http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/5592-quarantine-survey-call-qt-pics.html#post65286) thread. Also connected a Lighthouse controller so I can control temp better and check some vitals from home (see my signature below). Unfortunately, the Lighthouse power strip has a short in one of the sockets, so I will have to get that fixed. I bought it used, so I am not sure what MCUresearch will do for me. We'll see.

Remaining QT tasks is to stabilize temp and improve the eggcrate shelves I built. I will take a pic and post it once I'm finished.

2) Added 6-8 pounds of LR rubble to the sump chambers, utilizing remaining space.

3) Using Hanna Instruments handheld Temp/Ph tester (http://hannainst.com/usa/prods2.cfm?id=030001&ProdCode=HI%2098127) for the last few weeks, and it seems to calibrate and work well. It takes up to 20-30 seconds for the readings to fully stabilize, which is my only gripe. Otherwise, it is very handy when I need to make readings of my RODI or SW batches, or get a second opinion on my tank.

4) My DSB is starting to show its colors. I still plan to get some micro-fauna from IPSF (http://www.ipsf.com/). Just need to get off my duff and make some final decisions.

5) Several distinct species of algae are growing in the tank. Nothing huge, but I plan to excise the most aggressive micro-algae, hoping that the Chaeto and Halimeda will take up the slack nutrients. I will take a picture of each and post them. I have noticed that the tips of some of the micro-algae fade to white, almost as if they are dying-off. I hope this is not sexual reproduction.

I have noticed that when HA turns white it becomes possible to siphon it out.

I totally agree with you about the Hanna meter. They work great, but they TAKE FOREVER to stabilize on a reading.

The 10g QT is all setup at work. I am now trying to get the temps to stabilize. Ironically, at night when the lights (and AC) are off, the 10g has been heating up to 84.5 degrees!. Time to make sure all the computers are going to sleep at night. I may have to move the whole setup back home... :huh:

I am waiting on some pH calibration fluid to get the Lighthouse pH measurements in line.

Here's a blurry photo taken with my iPhone. I cut a bunch of pvc legs for the shelves in case I need to raise/lower the height of each. I am not sure how much radiation 130w of PC lighting can offer a coral, but the distance from the bulb to the higher shelf is about 8".

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/qtSetup.jpg

I finally ordered micro-fauna from IPSF (http://www.ipsf.com/), and received my confirmation today. The order should arrive next Friday, and will include:

Coral Heaven - IPSF proprietary Coral Food. They are guarded about its contents, but I am taking a leap of faith based on their reputation.

Live Sand Activator - Live Sand including micro-Hermits and grazing snails

Wondermud - Slurry including Reef Amphipods, Mama Mia Worms, Baby Bristle Worms, baby shrimps, baby snails, phytoplankton and zooplankton.

6 additional bristle worms

6 additional micro-hermits

6 sandbed clams

reefamphipods + podflakes + podmat - Complete "Amphipod Breeding kit"

6 Mini-brittle stars

I am mostly concerned with micro-fauna that will stir the top layer of the DSB and eat detritus. I probably ordered more than I should have, but the "Mix 'n Match" special comes with free shipping ($29 value), so it is only $10 more than ordering only what I needed. Plus - I really wanted to get those Mini-brittles...which really put me over the top.

I will try to take pics when the bags arrive...

Today I arrived home to find my glass covered with two forms of critters, both tiny. Half look like a white (colorless) dot with 8 or so radial legs, and the other form are elongated tubes that I first took for some sort of larvae. Most were stationary, but some (of both growth forms) were crawling along the glass surface, primarily in areas of diatom growth. At first I thought some sort of pod, but several searches came up with nothing.

Following my last post, I did a search for mini-brittle stars, and I came upon a WWM FAQ page about Hydrozoan Jellyfish (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/jellyidfaqs.htm). There on the page was a picture of legged critter, with a link to another Shimek article with a few paragraphs about Staurocladia oahuensis (http://www.ronshimek.com/Animal%20Groups%203%20Cnidarians.htm)! Gotta love the internet.

It seems as though Staurocladia oahuensis are generally not thought of as harmful, and they often appear in numbers and then disappear altogether. They reproduce by budding or by fission, and are often introduced into the aquarium in the polyp stage on LR. Gotta love reef tanks.

I am not sure what the second (elongated) growth form is, whether it is larval or somehow related to the polyp stage.

I've seen the two critters you describe in my system. It seems there is a population explosion of them when a tank is relatively new and then they disappear for awhile. From then on you may find a few on the glass now and then. I believe they are harmless.

i dont know what it is, but your gear just seems so....crisp .... thats prob the best word to describe it. Nice work, just did a bit of back reading, had alot to catch up on!

i dont know what it is, but your gear just seems so....crisp .... thats prob the best word to describe it. Nice work, just did a bit of back reading, had alot to catch up on!

Thanks Veriann,

I am a bit of a nit-picker when it comes to products and techniques, especially when it comes to reef tanks. That is partly why I am not a good DIY person, although I wish I were. I analyze and think too much as I look at something. I contemplate possibilities, get disappointed with imperfections, and obsess on these details in a horrible, time-consuming, myopic manner. Even posting to threads takes me several revisions...

However. Reef Keeping is particularly forgiving since the patience it requires often affords a lot time for thought between actions.

I am most excited about keeping stony corals. Crispness is for naught if I don't succeed at this goal.

I received my critters from IPSF, but unfortunately did not take any great pictures. My daughter always insists on helping me acclimate all new additions - which is fun, but my hands were full watching her while unpacking and preparing.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/IPSForder.jpg

Here is an initial review:

Everything came really well packed in one Styrofoam container. Inside were the various bags with the livestock, and Coral food, and a few heat packs. Everything was double bagged (even the receipt). There was a very small bit of water that appeared to have leaked from one bag, but no bags appeared to be missing any water. Overall the packing was very good. It was neat to get a box from one of my favorite vacation destinations (The Big Island of Hawaii), and IPSF must be really close to where we usually stay in Kailua-Kona. I'll have inquire about a tour the next time we are there...

IPSF was kind enough to send 5 bonus Micro Hermits and 5 extra Mini Brittle Stars with my order.

Coral Heaven - IPSF proprietary Coral Food. They are guarded about its contents, but I am taking a leap of faith based on their reputation.

This is a dry, powder type food, but they recommend keeping it sealed in the refrigerator or freezer to extend shelf life. The powder is about as fine as nutmeg, with some larger (firm) pieces here and there. It smells very fishy, so it must be good. :p

To use the powder, you simply mix it into a slurry with some tank water, and then target feed. The instructions are very careful to mention not to leave uneaten food, but suggest that your corals should be left to feed for 45 minutes.

Live Sand Activator - Live Sand including micro-Hermits and grazing snails


The micro hermits are VERY active, and move pretty quickly compared to my other red-legged hermits. They always seem to be climbing on stuff, checking things out, but I cannot say exactly what they are eating yet. I have not seen clear signs that they are eating any micro-algae, but the do climb through it from time to time. I would say they seem to be a good addition so far, but only because they are so small.

The grazing snails are also small, and not very smart. They will climb up out of the water and start descending your tank from the outside! Twelve times I have picked one off the outside and plopped it back into the tank. Fortunately, they seem to be very resilient to the outside world, and seal themselves up tightly when they run low on moisture. This morning I found one who made it all the way down the outside of my tank into the stand below. He was sealed up, and I put him back into the tank and he seemed to slowly come back to life - but not before a Nassarius snail spotted him and pinned him down and ate him. This also happened to a few when they were first acclimated, even though I made sure to feed the tank first. The Nassarius snails seem to love these guys... I would say they are not a very useful addition because of these vulnerabilities, and unless you have a ton of them, I cannot see such a small snail making a significant grazing impact, but if you can protect them from predators (and from killing themselves), then why not?

Wondermud - Slurry including Reef Amphipods, Mama Mia Worms, Baby Bristle Worms, baby shrimps, baby snails, phytoplankton and zooplankton.


The Wondermud was a bit of a wonder. What is in this silt-like stuff, and what to do with it? I added this to my DT with trepidation and with a leap of faith. The fine particles dispersed and did not cloud up the water as much as I assumed it would. While pouring it in I saw several Micro-Hermits and brittle worms inside, but nothing else of note.

One could assume that the mud has beneficial bacteria and minute micro-fauna, but I cannot help but think that it will make little difference to the tank.

6 additional bristle worms

The bristle worms were reddish-brown in color, and larger (2.5") than I expected. They wriggled on the sandbed for an hour or so after acclimation, and then disappeared. I assume that they will breed in the tank, but if not, I am fine with the dozen or so that are in there now.

6 sandbed clams

These are very small (0.75") clams, very conventional looking. I added them to the tank, and one of the Nassarius snails glided over to it and jumped on top. I am not sure if the snail was trying to pry the clam open, but he wasn't very successful and then went on to torment the small Nerite snails. The clams, like the bristle worms - eventually disappeared not to be seen since.


reefamphipods + podflakes + podmat - Complete "Amphipod Breeding kit"

These Amphipods are huge compared to any pod I've ever seen in my tank, and are pretty active. The "podmat" consisted of some folded kelp-like algae combined with clumps of Gracillaria. The only place I had to contain & light this was the same small chamber my Chaeto was in. So I lifted the Chaeto and placed the matt underneath. Spare bits of Gracillaria started coming up from the bottom of the chamber and leaking into the rest of the sump, and the matt was far looser in structure than I thought it would be. After a couple of weeks of having the matt down there I decided it wasn't growing too well (too cramped) and it was kind of a mess compared to my Chaeto. I made the executive decision to get rid of it after determining that the pods would be just as much at home in the Chaeto anyway. Too bad since someday I would like to have a full size fuge with some Gracillaria.

I also had a hard time "feeding" my Amphipods, since I would hope that I did not have to increase nutrients to the tank for them to thrive. The low-flow chamber I have them in collects bits of debris that I assume includes some food particulate for them. I will feed them with the flakes occasionally, but I am hoping they can do well on their own. The flake food may double as fish food...and IPSF sends you a generous amount.

I did not have the facility to take advantage of this "Breeding Kit". Perhaps if you have a larger refugium it is well worth the money.

6 Mini-brittle stars

The Mini-brittle stars were really cool to look at in the bag. Tiny Tiny Tiny. Of course, I haven't seen them since adding them to the tank. I hope they reproduce and I wish them luck.

---

All told, the order included hits and misses. I really like the micro-hermits, the bristle worms and the micro-brittle stars. The clams were a close second. If I ordered again, I would skip past the wondermud and breeding kit - unless I upgrade my refugium. The only thing I would advise against is the Nerite "grazing" snails, unless you are trying to feed a finicky Nass. :p

The only criticism I have for IPSF is that the pricing structure is tricky. You cannot order everything a la carte, and you pay a premium when you do. When you factor in the $30 shipping, it just makes sense to get the $99 Mix-n-Match Special that comes with free shipping. But not all items are available in the Mix-n-Match, including the mini-brittle stars, and the "Mama Mia" Spaghetti worms. For $20 each, you can add these items as part of the Super Mix-n-Match Special. The customer may end up ordering things that they may not want (as much) just to come up with nine items, and then have to pay extra to get the things they that are not covered. The saving grace is that, if you factor in the free shipping that comes with the Mix-n-Match, the deal is not all that bad. The ordering process is just a bit of a mind-bender. I would prefer it if you could just order everything a la carte and simply get quantity discounts based on how much you buy and free (or 50% off) shipping for any order over $100 (free shipping is offered at $200 or more). Nonetheless, IPSF was kind by throwing in a few extras - and the extras were the things I liked the most. Overall, I am very satisfied and would order from them again.

BTW: I did receive a prompt call from founder Gerald Heslinga when I inquired about a missing tracking number. He went over some questions I had and was very pleasant to talk to. I was impressed that he gets on the horn to talk to customers.

Awesome reporting. Overall, sounds like a good deal and a good company to work with.

Ammonia: 0.0ppm
N02: 0.0ppm
N03: 0.2ppm
Ca: 375ppm
Mg: 1215ppm
Alk: 8.5 KH
Ph: 8.1-8.4
Temp: 82.5 (Lowering this to 81.5)
Phos: 0.0ppm
SG: 1.026

48g estimated total water volume. 5g water changes weekly.

Still striving to get Ca up to 400+. Currently at 375 ppm. I am dosing 30ml of B-ionic each day, with minimal progress. From what I have read, 30ml of both parts should raise my Ca by 10ppm each day while raising my Alk by 0.5 KH. This calculator (http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chemcalc.html) indicates that 210ml of ESV B-ionic should be able to raise 48g of SW from 345ppm to 415ppm. My 5g (low Ca Reef Crystals) SW changes at 345ppm are not helping, nor is the Ca uptake by Coralline algae or the minor amount of Halimeda in my DT. However, I figured that it is better to dose the tank rather than the WC bucket, since I can safely dose the tank up to 48ml/day (1ml/gallon as per ESV rec.) after the WC, while I can only put 5ml/day into the bucket.

Amphibious mentioned that I may want to check my Mg levels, since depressed Mg levels somehow effect your Ca levels (or readings?), so I bought a Salifert Mg kit. Mg tested a bit low at 1215ppm. My understanding is that normal Mg in SW is 1350-1500ppm. I even read that some temporarily use elevated Mg levels (http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic67434-13-2.aspx?Highlight=magnesium+bryopsis) (sustained 1500+ levels) to abate nuissance algae like Bryopsis. It looks like I may be getting some ESV Mg supplement...

Otherwise, everything seems to be going well (chemically speaking). The DSB is really settling in with more signs of de-nitrification and microfauna, with some pale-green and pale-brown tinges here and there. I encountered two hardened areas of my DSB, toward the front and in one other area. I broke up the slabs with a turkey baster, and did some minor research about the cause of this hardening. Seems like some camps think its due to Ca precipitate, others think its some sort of bacterial growth that fuses the particles together. Since very limited areas of my SB were affected, I am not sure how much I should worry. Is this why some people poke their DSB routinely to break this up?

I was going to suggest increasing Mg but Dick has beaten me to the punch! I run mine at 1300 - 1350. Are you seeing white particulate "snow" in your tank? You don't have that high of Ca demand in your tank, your Mg is not that low and you are dosing Ca so I am wondering if you are precipitating out the Ca you are adding?

I was going to suggest increasing Mg but Dick has beaten me to the punch! I run mine at 1300 - 1350. Are you seeing white particulate "snow" in your tank? You don't have that high of Ca demand in your tank, your Mg is not that low and you are dosing Ca so I am wondering if you are precipitating out the Ca you are adding?

Thanks Carmie. I am thinking that you are right. I wonder if the micro-bubbles I think I see in my tank are (at least in part) actually Ca precipitation. When I stop my return circulation (but not the Vortech), some of the bubbles/particulates clear up. Perhaps the other half of what I see is precipitation.

My parameters are pretty good, although my Ph is dipping just below 8.1 recently. One thing I have witnessed since I have started dosing is a hard Ca build-up on my DT glass at the surface. I was not sure if this is normal when dosing, but it sure is hard to scrape off.

I just finished dosing 32oz of both part A and B (at 30ml/day), which should have easily boosted my Ca to target levels several times over.I must be precipitating. I will be getting some Mg additive shortly and I'll report the results. I am starting to feel like the noob that I am...

I've got much to cover, so I had better get started.

Over the past month, I have added several small corals, one fish and one invert. Pretty ambitious for me, and I hope not premature (at least for the Ca-loving corals) since I do not have my Ca levels solved yet. I thought I was right on track, but now my Alk (~7.0 dKH), Ph(8.0), and Ca (340!) levels have seemed to sag. Also, it is possible that I am seeing precipitation of Ca in the tank, although some recent tests with a Filter Sock in my sump on the overflow drain suggests to me that I currently have a only a micro-bubble problem. With the help of Randy Holmes Farley's articles, I am now determining a course of action.

With that said, I am happy to officially report that I have introduced my (first ever) corals into my care, including a Euphyllia Ancora frag, a Euphyllia paradivisa frag, a green Stylophora pistillata, and a variety of different Corallimorphs.

I was not expecting to purchase a Euphyllia just yet, let alone two - but they were always on my short list (despite their aggressiveness) and the frags were inexpensive ($20 each) and so cute. The Frogspawn looked like roughly the same size as the branching Hammer when in the LFS, but now the Frogspawn looks about 3 times as big (when fully expanded) as its diminutive cousin. I am really surprised how tightly these corals retract at night. The hammer can fully retract flush to the edge of its skeleton. I am still considering the positioning of these two, heeding the advice to give them plenty of (6") distance to any neighbors.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/hammerFrag1.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/frogFrag1.jpg

The Stylophora pistillata is a stony coral that I've been eyeing for a while. My research indicated that it may not be as difficult to take care of as many other stony corals, and I really liked how the bright green polyps seem to visually float above the reddish brown branches. This particular Stylo was the largest frag available from the LFS mother colony, which was the size of a basketball. Within a few days, the Stylo began to fully extend its polyps. It really looks almost furry with the polyps shimmering in the flow. I hope this extension is a good thing. I have been feeding it the smaller particulates of Rod's Food and occasionally Coral Heaven from IPSF. I positioned the Stylo high up on the rock to give it ample light. I botched my epoxy putty mount of the frag disc, so I will have to revisit that later.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/stylo2.jpg

The frag came with a tiny hitchiker, which was promptly extracted, and for lack of a positive ID, disposed. I was saddened by this, as I was hoping that the crab may be some form of Commensal, but traits indicated that it was more likely to be some form of Xanthid. I almost decided to take my chances, but extracting a problem crab (and determining the cause of crab invoked events) may be very difficult. He was very small, furry, and dare I say - cute. RIP.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/styloCrab.jpg

I also obtained a 3"x6" rock covered in about one dozen Corallimorphs of varied species (including Discosoma sp., Rhodactis sp., Actinodiscus sp.) and colors. The LFS calls this their "Rainbow Rock", and sels it for $60. Each mushroom is mounted to a small bit of rubble that is affixed to the rock with a white adhesive that looks like hot glue or something similar. Not sure what it is, but the rubble (with mushroom attached) will detach from the main rock with little effort. In fact, two fell off while in the DT, so I repositioned these to shady areas of my LR. I have to figure out how the rest will be relocated. I particularly like the more hairy (Rhodactis sp) ones, which quiver in the flow.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/rainbowRock.jpg

Lastly, I splurged on a $29 Ricordea. Pretty specimen, and it seems to be happy in its current location. It is getting so big that I wonder if it will split soon. Unfortunately, I posiitoned the Ric so that it is mostly occluded from frontal viewing. It seemed to fit well in that area, and I am now secretly hoping that it will split and spread to cover the entire outcropping. I will try to get a photo of this posted.

Here are some close-up shots of these new additions. My photography leaves a lot to be desired. With my 2 year old running the house ragged, I only had time for a few hand-held shots with the macro.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/hairyMushroom1.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/hairyMushroom2.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/hammerFragCU2.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/blueMushroom.jpg

Lastly, here's a strange little something that came with the mushroom rock. I am wondering if it is some sort of sponge:

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/newAdditions020808/ufo1.jpg

Great shots! And great buys! Isn't it exciting getting your first corals? Actually, it's not just with the first one...I have that experience with each new addition. I hover over them each evening as if they were my own children!

Yes, the last photo looks like a sponge.

Scott, looking good! I love my Euphyllias. I have a torch that has divided from 1 head to 5 in my corner tank and a frogspawn with 2 heads in my nano. I know they sting and engage in allopathy but they are just beautiful. They wave in the current and the torch positively glows under my Solaris. I got my first 2 polyps of rics in the early fall and now I have SIX! I hope yours multiply like that!

Great shots! And great buys! Isn't it exciting getting your first corals? Actually, it's not just with the first one...I have that experience with each new addition. I hover over them each evening as if they were my own children!

Yes, the last photo looks like a sponge.

Thanks RB.

I was so self-conscious about purchasing any corals that I spent months doing research, only to go in the LFS like a kid in the candy store. I unfortunately have little time to connect with other local reefers, so I only have my research and forum participation to guide my purchases.

I hover as well. When my kids inevitably wake me up at 4 or 5 am (for whatever random reason), I always make a point (even in my half-asleep delirium) to check out the tank under the moonlights.

Scott, looking good! I love my Euphyllias. I have a torch that has divided from 1 head to 5 in my corner tank and a frogspawn with 2 heads in my nano. I know they sting and engage in allopathy but they are just beautiful. They wave in the current and the torch positively glows under my Solaris. I got my first 2 polyps of rics in the early fall and now I have SIX! I hope yours multiply like that!

I hope my ric propagates like that! Earlier today I was perusing one 65g TOTM tank (http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-08/totm/index.php) over at RK that is stuffed with Zoanthids and Ricordea. I am avoiding Zoanthid Palytoxins in my tank but this TOTM tank is stunning.

The Frogspawn and Hammer glow brilliantly under my Solaris too, especially at night. The waving motion is very interesting. You get so used to the motion that they seem lifeless by comparison when you turn off all the pumps. In fact, photographing the Frogspawn when the pumps are off seems problematic since the resting pose is not nearly as dynamic/graceful as when it is moving. Perhaps I will have to experiment with diffuse off-camera flash to get a good dynamic yet sharp pic.

As far as feeding your Euphyllias, how often and how much? I generally feed about 5 times a week. Half the time I will target feed the Euphyllias by gently blowing some food until some sticks, otherwise I just "feed the tank". I feed them medium sized particulate of various foods, as well as any finer particulate that happen to be in the turkey baster. They seem to be doing well, but I do not have any way of knowing.

One last observation: For the first time, my Frogspawn frag tipped over slightly and I found it leaning against the LR. I repositioned it, but later noticed that there was a tiny tip of a tentacle that had separated and was floating around the tank. The Frogspawn proper did not appear to be in duress when I found it, but I was wondering if this was some sort of a survival or propagative event. I read some threads on another site about "budding", but I am unsure exactly what the symptoms are. Any idea?

I don't feed my Euphyllias specifically at all. They seem to be able to catch enough in the water column from my normal feedings. Plus, I think they depend more on the light at any rate.
My divisa has split from 4 heads, when I bought it 2.5 years ago, to 18 heads now! (at least from what I can count..there are so many packed together). I have another one that I got last year and it had 1 head...it now has 4. I don't direct-feed them at all.

If your frogspawn dropped a polyp, it's probably because it got caught between the rock...it's no big deal. I find little buds floating around in my tank at times as well. I think it's quite normal; however, probably a bit more effective to divide heads rather than bud off and start a whole new coral! :D

I target feed mine a couple of times a week. They get mysis that has been soaked in Zoe Marine and fish mush. I wouldn't worry about polyp bailout as long as it is sporadic or from a stressor. I too see it occasionally. I've never had any settle out.

First, my current Ca related readings:

pH: 8.07
Alk: 7 dKH
Ca: 410
Mag: 1290 - Used ESV Mg (75ml per day) to raise this from 1210.

Just finished dosing 50ml/day of C-Balance Part "A" to get my Ca level to 410. According to the Randy Holmes-Farley article entitled "Solving Calcium and Alkalinity Problems" (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm), my levels are right about where the NSW (blue dot) appears on his charts. This puts me well into the "balanced" zone, just to the south-by-southwest of the recommended (red) target region. Now all I have to do (I hope) is to add Ca and Alk in a balanced fashion to boost both levels so I am squarely in the red zone (425ppm Ca, 9 dKH), and then reduce my additions as I simply maintain these levels. I assume my Ca uptake is nominal, with only developing Coraline Algae, small amount of Halimeda algae, my Euphylia and Stylophora frags consuming. I am not sure what the maintenance dosage will be, but I assume it will be around 10-20ml/day.

:dance:

Whooh! I'm almost giddy. Due to my own fault, it took me much longer than it should have to get there. My Alk and pH are on the low end of recommended, but I am hoping they will square up as I proceed with balanced additions.

It's looking good...your values are good for your low need of calcium....

It's looking good...your values are good for your low need of calcium....

Thanks, agreed. I am just fine tuning.

---

In related news, I just picked up a new Salifert Alk/KH kit, which now comes with a handy 6.4 dKH reference solution to verify the reagent accuracy (within the 0.3 dKH resolution). I wanted to compare it with the Elos kit, which has a relatively low resolution of 1.0 dKH, which had been irritating me during my quest for calcium/alk balance.

What I found was interesting. The Salifert Kit clearly tested my dKH between 8.15, while the Elos kit had been testing at 7. I realized that Elos reagents follow NIST standards, so I suspected I was doing something wrong. I re-tested using the Elos kit, and found out that the full titration color change required 2 drops (for the Elos kit, 2 drops = 2 dKH!), and not just one. In other words, I was ending the test when the solution went from a vivid blue to a pale yellow, but one more drop made the solution distinctly yellow. I believe that the Elos kit does measure my dKH to be 8.0, I just was never adding the second drop to see the full color change. In contrast, the Salifert kit has titration colors are more pale from start to end, but the color change is more abrupt, happening within one 0.3 dKH drop.

Just to validate my Salifert kit, I performed a test using the 6.4 dKH reference solution. The instructions state that the solution should test within +/- 0.3 accuracy, and my test indeed determined the kit tested to be accurate to the drop.

My conclusion, which is not based on thorough testing but my limited runs, is that the Salifert kit offers better resolution and less ambiguity in titration color change. The reference solution that Salifert includes also gives the Aquarist some peace of mind for the kit's accuracy. Although the Elos kit is fine for casual use while maintaining Ca levels, I have found that the Salifert kit is more "responsive" while first establishing optimum Ca/Alk balance.

Wow,

I haven't posted here in nearly a month. I may be fired from this tank thread soon!

Here's the news, good and bad.

Heavy feeding after the first two months must have caught up with me, since despite zero readings of nitrate and phosphate, existing hair algae and Bryopsis growth (on the right side of the tank) accelerated. After that, what I believe to be dinflagellates took hold, and at their worst they seemed to smother the HA and Bryopsis (making it much easier to remove) and even slowed the growth of my Chaeto at one point. Fortunately, the dinos have had little to no effect on the corals, fish or inverts. Now the dinos seem to be waning, and I have adjusted the feedings and feeding method to minimize leftover nutrients.

The tank's pH hovers between 8.0 and 8.1. I've read articles and posts from Randy Holmes-Farley and Anthony Calfo stating that high pH levels can help ward off dinoflagellates and Bryopsis.

I have considered dosing Kalk to help raise the pH, apart from the obvious benefits of maintaining Ca levels. Instead of dripping, I am thinking I might (if I actually can find room in the stand) get a Kalk reactor and tie it into my top off. In order to dose calk more gradually, my ATO unit can be adjusted to pump for a nominal number of seconds (ie.. 6 seconds instead of the usual 12). The ATO water will pump into the reactor (the reactor is a $300 (!) device to keep the Kalkwasser at maximum saturation), and then the Kalkwasser will overflow to the sump.

I think I would rather spend the $300 for two dosing pumps for 2 part, and switch my Salt mix from Reefcrystals to some other salt (like Bobby's Coral Reef Pro? or Tropic Marin Reef Pro) that actually has the Ca levels I need.

While on the topic of spending money (which I have gotten quite good at, THANKYOU Reef keeping ), I have been also thinking about getting a decent Aquarium controller. I have been messing around with a used Lighthouse controller I picked up, but despite the way cool ethernet jack and web server, there are several things lacking that make me want to get something else.

These are my needs:

1) Temp control. Sure, a Ranco Temp controller can do this really well, but at $130 for a dual, we are halfway toward a multi-controller.
2) Ph monitoring Do not need control yet, but who knows down the line.
3) Logging. I would love to see Temp and pH logged and graphed, even if just for peace of mind.
4) Feed timer. I manually unplug/replug my return, and Vortech when I spot feed, which is inconvenient and could lead to disastrous user error if I should forget to plug them back in. I could buy and/or modify a mechanical timer or microcontroler, but I'd end up spending $50-$100 putting that together when I could just apply the money to a multi-controller.
5) Ethernet connectivity. Being able to monitor my tank parameters over a LAN/WAN is really cool, and offers me more peace of mind. Sure, I do not have to have this - but it seems to make the controller more useful (and Mac OS X friendly). Most of the less expensive controllers have Serial port as an option, only support Windows OS, and require a computer host to support features like email alerts and WAN access.
6) Email alerts. It would be cool to have my controller send me notifications (especially power outages) if anything goes haywire.
7) Fuge light timer. My Solaris has its own controller/timer.

Downside:

Micro-controllers are electronics, and electronics are to varying degrees fallable. I work intimately with computers, and over the years have seen at least one of every component that makes up a computer go bad. A simple bulging capacitor can go bad and render a less functional. On top of hardware there is software with all its glorious bugs and limits. Dedicated controllers (like a Ranco temp controller) may have more reliability because of overall less complexity.

Scanning through the posts on the RC vendor forums is quite revealing. You see certain issues pop up (sticking channels, interference, digital relay limits, fading displays, erroneous pH readings, et cetera) that makes you think twice about putting so much trust into a single device.


The upcoming Digital Aquatics RKE seems interesting, although it will not (on debut) have ethernet connectivity. It is a bit more expensive than the entry level, but significantly less the current mid-range. It is design on a modular approach, and Digital Aquatics has alluded to many optional modules to extend RKE capabilities.

An alternative would be the DA RK2, or Neptune System's ACjr, leaving me with finding a way to upload data to an internet server. A second micro-controller could be programmed for this task, but the additional cost would bring you close to an RKE. Hmmm...

Perhaps for now I will just get a Ranco for dual temp control, and use the Lighthouse for monitoring only. Please excuse my thinking at loud, but if anyone would like to interject my brainwaves, I would welcome any suggestions.

3 weeks ago I purchased a Red Scooter Blenny (Synchiropus stellatus), and he is now introduced and doing well in his new home. I bought him without realizing that he was a dragonet (shame on me), and that they are difficult to care for. I was worried that he would not take frozen food, but by turning off the pumps and careful spot feeding, he seems to be doing quite well. During the day he hunts and snacks on pods in the substrate as well as LR. He is pretty darn cute, scooting along an inch at a time with a puppy dog face. I am assuming that he is quite nearsighted, because he does not seem to spook from sudden movements as easily as the other fish.

I cannot say that the other tank mates have really take much notice of him. Since he sits still so often, he proves to be very photogenic.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.Public/newAdditions030808/redScooterProfile.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.Public/newAdditions030808/redScooterFace.jpg

Boy... if the RKE is really everything they hype it to be, it will be really cool! Hopefully its really as great as they are selling it to be. I have a Neptune Aquacontroller II which I love. Granted its not the newest thing on the market, but it does way more than I need.

Personally, I dont get the point of monitoring a tank via the WWW. Being able to log into the control and see what the ORP is from 3000 miles away is cool, but even if its off, what can I do about that far away? Thats just me though.

Boy... if the RKE is really everything they hype it to be, it will be really cool! Hopefully its really as great as they are selling it to be. I have a Neptune Aquacontroller II which I love. Granted its not the newest thing on the market, but it does way more than I need.

Personally, I dont get the point of monitoring a tank via the WWW. Being able to log into the control and see what the ORP is from 3000 miles away is cool, but even if its off, what can I do about that far away? Thats just me though.

Thanks for the input pFresh. The RKE is overkill for me, but does seem like it is flexible, and extensible. However if you consider that an RKE + the announced Ethernet module will almost be as much as a AC III, then the price is less remarkable. The RKE should (by its somewhat incomplete description) display parameter graphs on the display - which could go a long way toward belaying my connectivity need.

No, I do not care to control my tank from Hawaii - only monitor it so I can go home from work if there is a problem, like excessive temperature, loss of power, or even flooding.

At the same time I purchased the Scooter, I also purchased some corals, each coming with an assortment of hitchhikers. I couldn't resist. Any help with identifying some of the hitchhikers would be really appreciated.

Branching Euphyllia glabrescens (Torch Coral) - 4 heads

This came with some really cool, mullti-colored sponges encrusted on the base.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.Public/newAdditions030808/torch.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.Public/newAdditions030808/torchSponges.jpg


Caulastrea furcata (Candy Cane Coral)

Also came with sponges, Anthelia(?), some Tunicates (not pictured). if you look closely, you can see a wooly-like coat covering the stalks. Not sure what that was, but over the past 3 weeks the coat, and some of the sponges have receded. All told, a good deal. 15 heads for $90.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.Public/newAdditions030808/candyCane.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.Public/newAdditions030808/candyCaneSponges.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.Public/newAdditions030808/candyCaneHitchiker1.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.Public/newAdditions030808/candyCaneHitchiker2.jpg

Cool additions. I love the red scooter blenny!

Things have certainly slowed down in the tank, with "new tank syndrome" finally starting to wane. I thought I would discuss some happenings prior to any new additions.

In my 24g Nano Cube, I had experienced small tufts of filamentatious algae, some tiny spots of bubble algae and one outbreak of Lobophora (brown wafer algae). All in all, I was lucky. In the new tank, I have experienced various forms of algae that I find both troublesome and interesting. The interesting aspect is how they wax, wane and out compete each other for nutrients, and what indications that gives me on my tanks diversity and my continued maintenance.

In the 55g, I have deliberately hosted Chaetomorpha, encouraged the hitchhiking growth of Halimeda and Chlorodesmis, and suffered Bryopsis, Dinoflagellates, Cyanobacteria. Early growth may have been spurred on by maverick feeding procedures, but now I have dialed those back a bit and am following more strict self-imposed guidelines on limiting excess and trapped food through selective spot feeding and pump control.

When I had a pronounced Dinoflagellate outbreak, I noticed that they out-competed the other Macro and Micro algae in the tank. In fact, my troublesome Bryopsis threat weakened and waned almost entirely by being out-competed. My resilient Chaetomorpha growth has even showed some signs of slowing during the worst of it, but has since rebounded.

Prior to the Dino phase, the Bryopsis (almost entirely limited to the right side of the tank) was particularly troubling. Routine pruning the Bryopsis was pointless (within 10 days it grew back entirely), and I could not remove the rock since they are firmly implanted in my DSB(!). When the Dinos hit, the Briopsis became coated and became pale and weak. I decided to take that opportunity to attack. I turned off all my pumps until the water was still and used a stiff OXO bottle brush (which is my preferred skimmer cup cleaning tool) to scrub the bulk of the Bryopsis off the rock. The session was quite effective, and I was able to carefully net up virtually all of the debris, and only a few hints of battered Bryopsis remain to this day. I do not think it would be nearly as effective if the Dinos did not severely weaken the Bryopsis through competition.

my new best friend
http://img.epinions.com/images/opti/ae/9b/650311-elec_lg-resized200.jpg


This gave me new insight on how to battle problematic algae. Not that I would deliberately introduce a pernicious algae to help weaken another, but perhaps there is something (apart from the more careful control of nutrient introduction) to be learned from these events.

Consequently, my Dinos (and even the latest Cyano phase) are now fading (albeit slowly) as my tank matures.

Thanks for the update and that useful information, scott.

Your welcome Dick. I hope the observation was of some practical use.

---

On another related task:

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/unidentified1.jpg

I recently identified a Vermetid snail (http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/5576-unidentified-organism.html#post65100) in my tank, and was worried that it would multiply. Well, a few months later - they have slowly yet steadily increased in number. Not enough to be worried about them taking over, but enough that the mucous webs have become unsightly and sometimes irritate the corals . I decided to act. Instead of using a Needle nose plier to methodically crush the embedded shells to extract the snails, i used a hemostat (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hemostat) (Kelly forceps) I had in a tool drawer. It was very effective at reaching into tight areas and adept at crushing the small shells. The locking mechanism was a bit of a hindrance for this task, but I quickly got used to unlatching the clamp as I worked.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b9/Hemostats.jpg

The hemostat became useful for yet another task: Pruning smaller areas of algae. Since it locks, you can securely remove a tuft of algae without worrying that some will escape back into the water column. The tool rinses off much easier than your hands do, and can reach into areas tha fingers cannot.

In this excellent thread The Building of a Reef (tank) (http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic23945-9-1.aspx) Eric Borneman talks about the waxing and waning as a tank matures. This is one of the reasons I am dubious of any method that promises faster cycling than what nature intends.

OK, this may be old hat to you seasoned reef geeks, but I came home to find a pinkish hairpin-turning trail of stuff on my back glass. First time I have actually seen this in my tank. I am guessing that this may be Nassarius eggs, but seek any expert guidance. These images are fairly large, so you may have to click on the bar above each image to see the full detail.

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/snailEggs/snailEggs1.jpg

Detail:

http://homepage.mac.com/svanzo/.public/snailEggs/snailEggs2.jpg

FWIW: The image was taken with a Canon G9 in macro mode with manual focus, illuminating the eggs from behind with a powerful LED flashlight. Fortunately, I have roughly 4 " of clearance between my back glass and the wall, enough room to slide a compact digital camera and press it firmly against the glass. My glass is 3/8" thick, so the camera was set wide as it can go so the focal distance could be set to minimum. This creates chromatic abberations in the image, especially toward the edges where the glass refraction is more pronounced. Could be sharper, but turned out fairly well for a hand held shot.

Ahh, Nassarius caviar. :up: Great photography, too.

Great image!