Someone told me in another forum that anemones do well in T-5 fluorescent lighting. I thought this couldn't be correct because they don't put out a ton of light and anemones require intensive light. So my question is this, will anemones do well under a T-5 light that would probably be about 30" Thanks.

Depending on the species,what flavor of Anemone lights your fire? :cool:

I had my BTA under PC's and it did well about half way up the tank. Under the Solaris it has moved to the bottom of the tank. It had stayed in the same place for nearly a year. It started wandering before I got the Solaris but was still always in the top half of the tank. Once I got the Solaris it moved its wondering to the bottom half or the back of the tank. I thought it had settled down as it hadn't moved for a few weeks but this week it is up to its old tricks.

I'm not sure what kind. I want something that a occelaris clown will host in. I like the way carpets look. The kind really doesn't matter to me, just something a occelaris clown will host in. I thought I couldn't have a anemone but now that I'm hearing I can use T-5 lighting for one I want to look back into it, because I can actually afford T-5.

What kind will work under the light?

How closely are you going to pack your T5's and how many will you have? How long will they be? Carpets are beautiful but get big and can be fish eaters.

I imagine they would be about 30", typical T-5 lights. I like them because they are cheap. Probably double bulbs. I do not know a lot about lights of this kind, I just started looking into the option.

Maybe not a carpet then.

What kind is relatively beginner friendly, won't attack other fish, will host a couple occelaris clowns, and would survive in T-5 lighting.

i was thinking something like a bubble tip to start you off with. they are a little less light demanding, and not as aggressive.

this is not a rule, but satill nice to have handy...

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n75/lReef_lKeeper/clown_anemones.jpg

I don't think that they come in 30", its 24" or 36". The 36" bulbs are 39 watts and I don't think that any anemone would be happy under 2 of them. You would be better off with PC's.

with only 2 i would agree with Carmie, it is just not enough light.

Okay
I might wait then. I was thinking the compacts from Coralife. They have some that are decently priced and 130 Watts total, what about that?

I had my BTA under 130 watt PC's for a year and it did OK but mostly lost its bubbles. I got my Solaris about 3 months ago and the bubbles are coming back.

I've seen Tomato Clowns(wild and tank-bred) host 90% of the Anemones on the list Bobby posted.
Once they settle in,the agression level tends to drop way down,localizing to the area around the anemone itself.And then they seem pretty content.
Ocellaris are not as likely to rush into any anemone except a Carpet.
So,IMO,a Tomato clown and a Bubble tip would be the way to go.

Okay, thanks.

if you haven't done so, check out the anemone article in the reefreaders forum Reefreaders - Anemone (http://www.reefreaders.com/content/view/46/)

it's not all inclusive, but it's a good primer.

You could keep an anemone under T-5 lights but a PC fixture would be your better bet. You would spend more at first on the fixture but the light is a little more intense and the bulbs last longer than T-5s so you won't be replacing worn out bulbs as often.


In my experience, lighting doesn't seem to be as important for anemones. Of course this depends on the species of anemone(actually the color, you can research it if you want, thats half the fun of this hobby!). I say as important because it is important, but to me flow is more important than lighting. Flow dictates the final position of the anemone in your tank. With your lights you know where the anemone will be in the tank by knowing the intensity of your lights. The lower the intensity(wattage) of the lights the higher in the tank the anemone will be. Flow on the other hand dictates where the anemone will be in all other aspects. Will it be on the left, the right, in the back, under a cliff, in a crevice, can you see it in plain view? Flow seems to have more duties than lighting huh? If you can keep soft corals under your lighting scheme then an anemone can be kept just fine. I will warn that some species get very large and should not be kept in smaller tanks. I suggest going with a green brown bubble tip anemone. They don't need high intensity light as long as they are kept fed and are in the right kind of flow. Make sure there is a random flow in your tank and the water moves a good bit. The anemone will move to where it wants. You can try and change the flow directions to get it to move to where you want if it doesn't settle in a viewable place but this can be tricky. Also make sure to test your parameters before even going to the store to get the anemone. If there is any test that reads too high(or too low in the case of pH) wait until the tests are reading normal. Make sure you acclimate it slowly and you should be ok. The lights need to be off and it might be a good idea to shut you pumps off until the anemone is stuck to something. If it gets caught in a current and hasn't attached it can get blown around and possibly sucked into a pump!(ouch!) Anemones are usually wild caught and there are people who are against keeping them in a tank but it can be done no problem if you plan it out right and keep up with husbandry. Also do a lot of research! Google search anemones and find out as much about them as possible! Good luck and let us know how you do! :)

Thanks!
Everyone here has been so helpful
If I hadn't found this sight I probably would have quit the hobby before I began.
I'm still in the process of deciding what tank to use, my 36 gallon or buy and aquapod 24. Previously I said I was doing the 36 but I love the aquapod design, I'll keep you posted!

Is this your first tank? If so I wouldn't recommend going with a small tank OR trying to keep an anemone right away unless you're prepared to devote a (possibly serious) amount of time to your aquarium when necessary.

That said... I've had a saddle carpet anemone (Stichodactyla haddoni, aka "fish killer") at the bottom of a 75g mixed reef tank under a mere 2x65W fixture and it's been growing and healthy for almost a year now (it was almost totally bleached when I got it), so it certainly isn't impossible - but I do feed it every night, it has a hosted saddleback clown that chases away our dumb fish and inverts so they don't get eaten, and I generally tend to keep a close eye on it (daily).

as most have described PC might be better for this application.
the thing with T5 bulbs is they are low profile, low heat, and high output. they are often used as a replacement for MH bulbs. in these cases 2 MH bulbs would be replaced with 6-10 T5 bulbs. the reason this works is because of whats mentioned above, you can pack a lot in and save on heat and energy costs.

you will probably need a minimum of 4x T5HO or 2x 65w PC or better to keep a BTA, which is a good starter anemone that doesn't need as much light as others.
stay away from carpets, they usually require much more light, and get large and aggressive as noted. also stay away from sebae's for your first one, they are almost always sold sick/bleached, and it takes some skill to bring them back to health

make sure you check out the lighting series of podcasts and the anemone podcast in addition to the Reefreader article mentioned. all of this info can be found in those shows with a lot more details.. :)

you will probably need a minimum of 4x T5HO or 2x 65w PC or better to keep a BTA, which is a good starter anemone that doesn't need as much light as others.

I'd agree those are probably good minimums for a new aquarist to keep a BTA, but as a lot of successful anemone farmers/propagators have found out, you can keep bubble-tips under normal output fluorescent shop lights, and not just in shallow prop tanks but standard sized 55g and 100g tanks - but ONLY as long as they are fed highly nutritious food on a regular basis. (highly nutritious = no crappy freshwater "silversides" from the LFS, regular basis = around 5g/day for juveniles seems to be typical, split across 2 meals).

Ron Shimek said back in 2001 or so that he figured any species of anemone could probably be kept in the dark as long as you were feeding it adequately - the photosynthesis is a backup in case there's no food around.

I'd agree those are probably good minimums for a new aquarist to keep a BTA, but as a lot of successful anemone farmers/propagators have found out, you can keep bubble-tips under normal output fluorescent shop lights, and not just in shallow prop tanks but standard sized 55g and 100g tanks - but ONLY as long as they are fed highly nutritious food on a regular basis. (highly nutritious = no crappy freshwater "silversides" from the LFS, regular basis = around 5g/day for juveniles seems to be typical, split across 2 meals).

Ron Shimek said back in 2001 or so that he figured any species of anemone could probably be kept in the dark as long as you were feeding it adequately - the photosynthesis is a backup in case there's no food around.
yes, as i noted in my podcast, BTAs are one of the ones that you can support under lower light, but the key with them is that you need to supplement that with regular feeding.

good advice.. :)

yes, as i noted in my podcast, BTAs are one of the ones that you can support under lower light, but the key with them is that you need to supplement that with regular feeding.

good advice.. :)

You did, indeed, mention that fact in the podcast ... I'm always forgetting to reference the relevant episodes & plug the show!

I am confused you guys are saying CF lighting for the anenomes but the article says T5 or does that apply to T5s with 4 bulbs I am looking to put a anenome in my tank down the road and am really confused about what type of lighting. My tank is a 29 gl 24wx20hx12. I am loosing my mind I don't want to mess it up or invest in something then have it be the wrong thing.

I am confused you guys are saying CF lighting for the anenomes but the article says T5 or does that apply to T5s with 4 bulbs I am looking to put a anenome in my tank down the road and am really confused about what type of lighting. My tank is a 29 gl 24wx20hx12. I am loosing my mind I don't want to mess it up or invest in something then have it be the wrong thing.

A T5 isn't much different than a CF - the extra brightness mostly comes from the fact that its a single tube (as opposed to a double folded CF tube) and thin enough to use individual reflectors on each bulb so more light makes it "down" into the tank. (Check out TR Episode 76 (http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/podcast-episodes/2550-lighting-part-2-fluorescent-podcast-episode-76-a.html) for more info)

If this is your first anemone, and especially if this is also your first tank, I would strongly recommend getting the biggest and brightest light fixture you can afford (remember to factor in the on-going electricity costs as well!). It will provide the anemone with an environment closer to what it is familiar with and give you a bit of leeway with the feeding schedule, and thus, the water clarity issues that the heavy feeding can cause.

What species of anemone do you want to get? Your tank should be at least 6 months old before considering even the hardiest anemones such as a bubble-tip or even a fish-gobbling coral-stinging pain-in-the-rear Condylactis sp. species from the Caribbean. For other species, such as carpets or long-tentacled anemones, your tank really needs to mature for a good 12 months or more... which is plenty of time for you to go through every anemone article, book, blog, podcast, forum, and tank log thread you can get your hands to choose an appropriate anemone for your system AND still have enough time for more in-depth research into the specific species you end choosing :)

I am thinking probably a bubble tip I am just trying to figure out what is the best lighting the t5 or cf. I am also wondering if I can add coral down the road with the anenome or if that is a whole differant ball game

I think that T5's with individual reflectors are probably better. You can keep corals and anemones together although the anemone may walk on them if it starts to wander. Some corals are easier to keep than anemones.

what are some good begineer corals and what would be there lighting requirements

if you have T5's already i would go with soft corals, and LPS corals ... MAYBE a few SPS corals up high (but that would depend on how many, what wattage, and reflectors that came with the T5's. sorry but i did not go back and read every post in the thread.

i would suggest leathers (most are extremely hardy), and maybe a few LPS like frogspawn, hammers, and torches. with the LPS's though, you will need proper flow for them to really thrive. the 3 MAIN ingredients of a reef tank are IN MY OPINION ... lighting, flow, and BIG skimmer.

No I have not got the lighting yet I am trying to do as much learning as I can before I buy anything I am still trying to decide between the compact or t5s

ok, since you dont know what type of anemone you want ... what type of corals will you want to keep in the tank ?? this will also be a factor as to the lighting that you will require.

with PC lights you will be more of a soft coral and a few LPS coral, reefer.

with T5HO (with individual reflectors and more than 2 bulbs) you will be more of a soft, LPS, and few SPS (possibly), reefer. i would go with at least a 4 bulb setup in this option.

Thanks for the advice I am actually thinking of skipping the anenome and going with some begineer corals. I think they will be more rewarding to look at

in either situation i would still go with the T5's. they will give you enough light to go with any starter coral that you want. then you can add other corals when you feel you are ready.

BTW ... individual reflectors are the key to T5 HO lamps. so make sure you get them with the reflectors.

It sounds like you have decided to not go with an anenome, but just in case you change your mind, I have a sebae anemone I bought in Sept. It was completely bleached out. My tank is 100 gal, 6 ft wide on the top, with only 4 T-5ho lights, 4'. (not a lot of light) The anemone was 3" when I got it. It is now the size of a basketball. It took a lot of nursing it the first 3-4 weeks, just to get it to feed. It only ate silversides, tiny 1/8" piece everyday. It is now taking 2 -3 3" silversides eagerly, every 1-3 days. Basically the key is feeding. They have to eat. It seems even more then the lighting they need meaty food. Of course, this is only my experience. They are not healthy when white, even though the lfs will tell you they are. They will become a bruised/brownish spotty look when they start to get better. And short fat stubby tentacles are not healthy eather, they should be long. Wetwebmebia.com has great advice on anemones, all kinds, but this woman truly helped me save my anemone, karensroseanemones.com
Remember, they can get BIG! AND FAST.

Just want to re-clarify, not all anemones are long tentacle, just speaking about the sebae I have researched and experienced. I have a lot of softies in my tank with this anemone too, and it by far has been easier to care for than the softies. Might just be my tank though.

It sounds like you have decided to not go with an anenome, but just in case you change your mind, I have a sebae anemone I bought in Sept. It was completely bleached out.

That condition is typical of all wild-caught/collected anemone specimens. Some LFS' will nurse them back to health a bit before displaying them for sale but many stores, particularly large franchise/chain stores, will simply slap a price tag on them and toss them in a display tank the day they arrive. Even if a specimen is bleached there are still many signs you can use to determine if it has the potential to be healthy such as making sure the foot/pedal isn't damaged, the mouth is not gaping, no tears in the tissue, etc... (this is all covered, in depth, by Rob in TR Podcast episode 40 (http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/podcast-episodes/577-sea-anemones-podcast-episode-40-a.html))

My tank is 100 gal, 6 ft wide on the top, with only 4 T-5ho lights, 4'. (not a lot of light)Plenty of light for a well-fed 100g tank, IMHO, especially if you have a DSB in your display, which effectively makes the tank shallower by another 5" to 7".

The anemone was 3" when I got it. It is now the size of a basketball. It took a lot of nursing it the first 3-4 weeks, just to get it to feed. It only ate silversides, tiny 1/8" piece everyday. It is now taking 2 -3 3" silversides eagerly, every 1-3 days. Basically the key is feeding. They have to eat. It seems even more then the lighting they need meaty food.You've hit the nail on the head, my friend! Light alone might give them enough "energy" to make it through the day but photosynthesis alone can not sustain any cnidarian (anemone or coral alike) for long. The carbon-based nutrients produced along with oxygen in photosynthesis are great for plants and dinoflagellates such as zooxanthellae but simple sugar-like carbohydrates and oxygen alone do not provide all the necessary nutrients that a multicellular animal requires in order to produce new tissue. Additional nitrogen-based compounds and amino acids, at a minimum, are needed by the simplest animals, and most have nutritional requirements that are much more complex. For anemones, and many other cnidarians, "growing new tissue" also includes the production of nematocysts (stinging cells) that the animal uses to capture prey from the water column. New nematocysts must constantly be replenished as they are fired to capture prey or spent competing with other sessile creatures for substrate dominance; and new nematocysts must be produced as the animal grows.

You did right by starting with small food items and I'd recommend you keep the chunks small even as you increase the actual size of the meals - the animal won't mind at all and will typically regurgitate less waste if given several smaller portions over a longer period of time. Research done by Dr. Ron Shimek has shown that you can actually starve an anemone by feeding it food items that are too large. Grabbing a large silverside or other chunk of food simply causes so many nematocysts to be fired/released that often the anemone ends up using a large portion of the nutrients gained from the meal just to regenerate these cells, leaving little leftover for actual growth, healing, or reproduction. Among the many premature anemone deaths seen in reef aquaria, oversized food items may even rank a close 3rd along with sheer starvation/lack of food ("a 400W metal halide over a mere 16 inches of water is all this baby needs!") and inadequate/dangerous environments (crushed in collapse of unsecured live rock, sucked into uncovered powerhead intakes, wandering into a colony of Euphyllia sp., Galaxia sp. or other aggressive coral kept in the same tank).

Of course, this is only my experience. They are not healthy when white, even though the lfs will tell you they are. They will become a bruised/brownish spotty look when they start to get better. And short fat stubby tentacles are not healthy eather, they should be long. wetwebmedia.com has great advice on anemones, all kinds, but this woman truly helped me save my anemone, karensroseanemones.comI wholeheartedly agree, both of those sites are excellent resources of information! For the record, many (most?/all?) of Karen's gorgeous specimens were grown using plain old VHO lamps (T12s), adequate feeding, regular water changes, and patience.

Thanks so much for the info on the food size. I wll keep them to a 1/2" chunk size, I kind of like it when I can put the food in different tentacle spots, maybe I shouldn't though, that probably makes it work harder and just waste energy. OR maybe it can be its exercise regimen, lol. Help keep the whole body functional.
Nice to know that seems to be a good amount of light, I always worry that I need to run out and buy MH, but quite frankly that whole set up still intimidates me. THanks doctorthompson for the extra advice.

Thanks so much for the info on the food size. I wll keep them to a 1/2" chunk size, I kind of like it when I can put the food in different tentacle spots, maybe I shouldn't though, that probably makes it work harder and just waste energy. OR maybe it can be its exercise regimen, lol. heh... the last thing you need is your anemone getting any stronger. My carpet anemone once wedged a couple of 23-25 lb. rocks right off the bottom of the glass (with 18" of water above them and a mature 7" DSB around them) with it's foot ... not bad for something with no muscles to speak of!
Nice to know that seems to be a good amount of light, I always worry that I need to run out and buy MH, but quite frankly that whole set up still intimidates me. The heat issues alone intimidate me! On your 100g you'd probably be able to keep just about any light-loving species with another 2x54W T5HO fixture added to the mix (for 6 bulbs total) as long as you kept up with adequate feeding and water quality control.