Nearly ready for water

[Amphibious]

Hey everyone,

I couldn't quickly find the thread showing my 135 plumbing pics. So. here's an update. The plumbing below the tank is finished. A couple of things to do at the tank level tomorrow and then test fill with fresh water, run for a day and then, if all checks out...........WOOHOO, saltwater and all that goes with it. Wish me luck. Of course, read my sig line. ;)

Here's a pic of the nearly finished plumbing. I don't have my UV yet so there's an open T for that and an extra T just because. Here it is and I've got to go, heading out for dinner and late.

http://www.theculturedreef.com/Plumbing-7.jpg

I'll expect some critiques when I get back. :rolleyes:

[Rob]

an image from the other angle would bee cool, its hard to see where the lines all go to from this image...

[Scott]

Wow....looks awesome! Can't wait to see more.

[AdamJ]

i am really looking forward to seeign more pics and possibly a schematic or two.

really neat so far.

[Amphibious]

Rob

I don't think a different angle would help. Maybe you mean from the top. That will come tomorrow. Let me run through each line from left to right.

Dicscharge from pump, a Mag 24 at 2400 gph zero head, is 1" immediately increased to 1 1/2" header. The first T goes behind and to top of tank. Will show this tomorrow. 2nd T will be for UV, not here yet. 3rd T goes to a Bermuda Aquatics Skimmer rated for 225 gal. 4th T goes behind and up to the top for a 3/4" Sea Swirl. 5th T is a by pass, goes directly back to sump. 6th T goes behind tank to the top. Exactily like the first T, will show you what I do with these tomorrow. 7th T is extra, just in case I forgot something. The last T, horizontal, is the return line running up the inside of the overflow and discharging through 3/4" Flex Loc fittings at the top of the O/F Also in that line is a 1/2' T and valve for water changes or whatever.

The "sump" isn't, but I didn't want to wait for my manufacturer to make up my design for the sump. I'll order that soon. This is a trickle filter box that I'll fill with LR, Walt Smith's Fiji Mud and Aragonite sand for now. That can be changed out easily enough when the sump arrives.

More pics tomorrow.

[Amphibious]

Forgot.

Two 1" drains with Durso stand pipes.

Lights. I'm thinking of a 60" Aquactinics with 2 175 watt XM 10K and 2 80 watt T5 HO Actinic bulbs.

Tank is 24" tall and will have 5" DSB, Aragonite sand, LR, LS, etc.

Any thoughts on light selection. Anybody have experience with Aquactinics??? Here's a link to the page with the lights. Scroll down to the 60". They are $775.00. OUCH!!!

Lighting_Systems. (http://www.aquactinics.com/Store/Lighting_Systems.htm)

[Rob]

Forgot.

Two 1" drains with Durso stand pipes.

Lights. I'm thinking of a 60" Aquactinics with 2 175 watt XM 10K and 2 80 watt T5 HO Actinic bulbs.

Tank is 24" tall and will have 5" DSB, Aragonite sand, LR, LS, etc.

Any thoughts on light selection. Anybody have experience with Aquactinics??? Here's a link to the page with the lights. Scroll down to the 60". They are $775.00. OUCH!!!

Lighting_Systems. (http://www.aquactinics.com/Store/Lighting_Systems.htm)
wow.. that is expensive.. im sure you could DIY for much less than that
i know that my MHs were $350 new (retro kit)
and i got used VHO ballast and reflector (new bulbs) for $100

i would look that route.. :)

[Reefbaby]

Hey Dick!! Looking fab! Is that a downdraft skimmer? Also, wouldn't it be good to have a true valve (I think that's what they're called) on both sides of pump so that you can remove it easier for cleaning/maintenance?

[Amphibious]

Good Morning Christi,

Thank you!

I'm really not sure about this skimmer. It's a new design by a new manufacturer, Bermuda Aquatics out of CA. I met the "kids" that own BA at MACNA last year. It looks like a great product. Workmanship is very good, design is good (similar to others). Bought on a whim also sale priced. Also, the guy's wife was a "hugger", immposible for me to resist a "hugger". :D

The guy claims to have the best injector system. We're about to find out. (I called them "kids" above because they were only in their late 20s, they were kids to me.) I was going to sell the skimmers, set up a page on my website but haven't gotten prices from them yet.?? You can read about them, their words, at this link - Bermuda Skimmers (http://www.theculturedreef.com/hobby-skimrs.htm)

Should be doing a freshwater flush today or tomorrow. Checking for leaks, that sort of thing. I don't expect any problems but you never jump into salt without a thorough test of the systems.


wouldn't it be good to have a true valve (I think that's what they're called) on both sides of pump so that you can remove it easier for cleaning/maintenance?
Good question! A valve, of any kind, would be a good idea at that location if the job was spread out away from the pump. But, everything is right there and I have valves on every take-off. So, to do pump maintenance, I just need to shut-off all the valves, allow the water to drain into the sump until it stops. Then syphon out the sump to where the water level is below the pump intake bulkhead fitting. At that point I can loosen the bulkhead fitting and un-screw the pump suction line (flex hose and a threaded male adaptor). On the discharge side of the pump is a union for disconnecting that line. Walla, the pump is free. There would be a small amount of water to catch but, that's normal.

[Amphibious]

Rob

I suppose I could go the retro route and save some money (don't tell my wife, okay?) But, I'm in a hurray, don't trust my eletrical skills, wouldn't know what to buy, don't understand the entire, ballast/MH/HQI/magnetic/electronic thingie. Are you getting the idea, Rob? I don't want to waste my time trying to figure out what to buy, where to buy, get the wrong thing, send it back, wait for other parts, run 10 miles to HD to get a wire nut. I think that about covers my electrical skills. I'm a pipefitter, not an electrician. My sig by-line says it all. Electrical success for me is "Plug and Play". :lol: :rolleyes:

[Rob]

Dick,
totally understand your point.. :)
the retro kits are all wired. and ready to be mounted.
the main differences are this

Full hood - a lot more money, just hang it and plug it in.

Retro - all wiring is don't, but you will need to supply the canopy/hood, mount the reflectors and find a home for the remote ballasts

Full DIY - get out the cutters and electrical tape, as you have to do it all.. :)

i went Retro, and there was "Zero" wiring. my reflects has prewired sockets right on them, that simple plugged into my ballasts, then i plugged the ballast into the wall, and walla, let there be light.. i will get some pictures up tonight of it all..

for reference here is the exact equipment i have

* Reflectors - i got standard spider reflects that had SE moguls sockets already on them, the socket was all wired up and ready to be plugged into my ballast (again, simple plug, no electical work needed)

* bulbs - i got 2x 250W 10,000K XM bulbs

* Ballasts - i revieved two PFO magnetic ballasts with the femal end of the plug from the socket...

i received all of that for about $350

* supps - i got a used VHO setup, so i i wont go into the details here any more than i already have..

just want to let you know what i did, and that retros are really easy.. :D

[Reefbaby]

http://smilies.vidahost.com/contrib/edoom/Flush.gif
Man Dick....I'm turning green with envy! Your plumbing is to die for....especially with the practicality of being able to clean the system.

Ever planning on making a trip to Sweden??? I'll try to post some pictures this weekend of my plumbing ideas....likes like your the expert to ask! :-)

[Amphibious]

Thanks, Rob. I appreciate your input. Maybe some day I'll venture into the retro paraphernalia thing.

[Rob]

Thanks, Rob. I appreciate your input. Maybe some day I'll venture into the retro paraphernalia thing.
lol.. yeah.. if your budget is a bit tight, like mine, then its a great option...
and doesnt require the special skills to wire anything...

but i have to say, that even if i had the budget, i would probably do the retro kit all over again. as it allows for more freedom in the setup..

[Amphibious]

Christi,

I'm afraid I owe you an apology, dear. I looked at your diagram a few days ago and forgot to get back to you. (Oldtimer's disease?) Aren't you a neuroscientist? :)

Your diagram looks fine to me. I assumed a couple of things, first, that the two loops are independantly piped to power heads. Second the two lines that run over the back are going to a sump and you have taken into account that they will syphon the tank and therefore provided a hole near the top to break the syphon.

[Reefbaby]

Hello Dick!

Thanks for looking over that diagram.....well...as soon as we find a cure for Alzheimer's, I'll let you know! But, doesn't reefing keep us young?? :-)

Your assumptions were correct. The two loops are independent and I will drill a hole in the tubing leading down to the sump. My husband is leaving for NY tomorrow morning, so I'm going to try to take advantage of the unplanned weekend to get my pictures/diagrams/details loaded onto a thread so that I can properly show you guys my plans!

THanks much!

[Amphibious]

Hi Christi,

Yes, reef keeping keeps us young and broke. :D

Hmmm, sometime when your husband is going to a meeting in the states, You and Hannah should come to FL and spend some time here. We're only an hour and a half from the "Magic Kingdom" :D

The 135 is being filled with water as I type. I'll keep you posted.


Ever planning on making a trip to Sweden??? Now there's a temptation. I've been to Italy and Switzerland. I'd love a trip to Sweden.

I've got to pay attention to water for awhile. I'm notorious for running water over. Don't want to do that in the new house. I'd be in "HOT WATER"

Talk to you later.

[Amphibious]

WoooHooo, I'm going to have a cocktail, anybody want to join me? Come on over. ;-)

Initial fill done. Water circulating for 30 minutes. No leaks. YES!!!

[Reefbaby]

Hey hey!!! Woo hooo!!!! http://www.mazeguy.net/happy/applause.gif

....make that a Cheeseburger in Paradise with some Boat Drinks!

Hopefully I can say the same in a few weeks.....we'll be doing our plumbing soon!

Congrats! Are you going with a DSB or bare bottom?http://www.mazeguy.net/silly/butthead.gif

Will this be a mixed reef?? What are your plans?!

[Reefbaby]

Hej Dick! Hannah would love to go to Disney World someday! I'm sure we'll plan that it at some point. She's princess/butterfly/fairy/ballerina all the way! :-)

[Amphibious]

Christi,

Cheeseburgers in Paradise, Boat Drinks and Buffett on the stereo doing his thing. Your on!


Are you going with a DSB or bare bottom? Oh, you are too cute. I can't get the butthead to reproduce here. How'd you do that? :rolleyes:

My Plans? I'm a advocate of DSB with aragonite sand. My method is modified from the standard DSB. Most people doing a DSB put their LR right on top of the sand. IMHO, that's a mistake. When ever I've talked to some one who "tried" a DSB and would never have another, laid the LR on the sand. This causes problems in about a year or two. The area under the LR becomes stagnant from top to bottom. This leads to failure of the DSB and problems for the reef. I'm not a scientist, I can't explain it technically, sorry. However, my methedology is different and it seems to avoid the problem.

Here's what I do. I'm going to do a 5" DSB. I'll seed it with 40lbs of LS bringing it up a bit above 5". Prior to setting my LR I'll strategicly place pieces of 1 1/2" x 6" PVC pushed to the bottom of the tank. The PVC will be drilled with holes to allow passage of water and the all important worms, pods, whatever lives in the sand. Next comes flat pieces of rock resting on the PVC. You have to be creative in placing the flat rock because your LR will be built on top of that. You can change locations as you build.

Ok, picture the LR in place, none of it leaning against the back of the aquarium. At the top rear of the tank I have two bulkheads drilled through the top (I've used Acrylic tanks exclusively since 1974 because of the flexibility they provide.) - (You were just a little girl), oops, better stay on topic. :) I'll take pictures and do a progressive post when ready.

These bulkheads hold what is essentially a spray bar but they are submerged so they don't spray. They direct a flow of water vertically down the back of the tank and the flow naturally goes under the flat rock holding the LR off the sand. Bingo, no dead stagnant areas under the LR and the area is flushed clean.

The purpose of the DSB is to provide both arobic and anarobic areas for the different nitrifying bacteria to perform their magic. Keeping the underside of the LR health is a challange, maybe impossible long term, if the rock is on the sand. I've kept a sand bed tank for ten years with no problems using this method. The only reason the tanks were torn down was a move.

Here's a link to pictures on my website showing how I do this and the spray bar. The spray bar doesn't show in the first picture. Scroll down, there are four pictures and you can see it in three.

Here's the link - DSB- pictures. (http://www.theculturedreef.com/75pic-1.htm)

I didn't even get to the type of reef tank I'm doing, yet. I'm going to eat and will post more later or tomorrow.

[Amphibious]

Christi,


Hej Dick! Hannah would love to go to Disney World someday! I'm sure we'll plan that it at some point. She's princess/butterfly/fairy/ballerina all the way!Wow, a princes butterfly fairy ballerina! I knew she was special. When you come to FL, please plan on staying with us for at least part of your vacation. I've never been to DW so would enjoy sharing it with the princess. :D

[ereefic]

Dick, the set-up is looking good. :)

What are the dimensions of the tank?

And you may want to consider getting a lighting fixture with VHO instead of the T5's. Everything that I've read says that the VHO Actinics are far superior to the T5 Actinics. Something to think about.

[kj_yoda]

I had VHOs and changed to T5s and I am much happier. Much brighter and everyting in the tank is much happier

[JustDavidP]

ereefic ... Good to see ya bud!

Welcome to The Talking Reef!

Dave

[Amphibious]

Hey Eric,

Tank is 135 gal - 72 x 18 x 24. I'm teaning toward a 60" fixture by Aquatinics described on their site as follows;

"Fixture comes standard with two (2) 175W 10K XM or Coralvue Single Ended Metal Halide (MH) bulbs and two (2) 80W T5 High Output (HO) fluorescent actinic blue bulbs."

They don't have a VHO option. I'm not a fan of T5s. Thought about 250W XM 10Ks but I'm going with a 5" DSB so water depth will be 18" to sand and less of course on the LR. Your input would be well regarded in this matter.

Thanks.

Dick

[ereefic]

I don't think you'd be happy with only 2 MH's over a 6' tank.

Are you set on a hanging fixture? If a canopy is an option, i'd get 3x175w retro kits and 2-6' VHO's. Run the XM 10k's and Super Actinic R's for the VHO. That is the combo I use and like the color very much.

A 175w triple magnetic ballast (PFO), 2-36" Reflectors (PFO), 3-Mogul Sockets and 3-XM 10k bulbs would run you $539.70 plus shipping. And you should be able to get the 2x6' VHO set up, including bulbs for around $250 with some slight wiring (very easy) involved. Just something to think about.