Yellow tang. I put him in my tank 4 days ago, and he's been fine until now... I just got home from work, and looked in there... he looked almost bruised on both his sides, and he was swimming into things and bumping around the bottom of the tank. I took him out, put him in a container with water from the tank, did a 10% water change, tested everything, and now i'm reacclimating him. He looks a lot better now than he did when I got home, but he's still pretty pale. Anybody have any ideas? He mostly eats algae off the rocks, but sometimes he'll nip at the flake stuff I put in there for my damsels. I'm gonna go out to get him some better food tomorrow...

Any ideas on whats wrong?

not too sure from the description
what size was the tank?

as for the food, make sureyou get some Nori, as they need lots of vegie to stay healthy. you can get Nori from an asion market or from your LFS (for more $$)

Its a 75 gallon, with another 30 gallons or so split between the fuge and sump. All the water tests come up well within limits. 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 1 nitrates... etc.

He looks fine this morning. I dunno what was wrong with him. I think he was just hungry or something... the damsels chase away any other fish that try to eat their food. I put some of the flake stuff in the container I had him in, and he ate it all. I'll go out and get some better food for him.

I read somewhere that giving them sea lettuce is good (or something). Where do you buy that? I looked at my crappy LFS and they didn't have anything other than pellet and flake food, and some frozen brine and the like.

I have a purple tang and I occasionally feed him regular green leaf or romaine letuce. He seems to like it just fine, even the tomato clown gets in on the action.

This thread has very good information on why not feed terrestrial lettuce to our fish. The lettuce thread (http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/macro-micro-algaes/2688-nori-sheets.html?highlight=lettuce)

WOW!!!!


I understand its not prefered to feed letuce, but does that mean its detremental?
I have only used it as a treat, (entertainment for company)?

Sorry for the bad info(blame it on the newbie) I dont have a place near me that can provide nori, will look into it more to confirm.

i feed dried seaweed to all of my tangs. i just soak it in garlic water and clip it to the tank. its gone in minutes !! they also get PE mysis, enriched brine, cyclopeeze, and sometimes even squid.

We really need to encourage peeps to QT their fish.

It's really one of the basics of this hobby and we should make sure all of our basics are covered.

Housing damsels with a tang is not always a good idea. I don't have personal experience, but I've read many threads in which the tang was so stressed out it perished. Just something to think about.

Hope he is ok.

My 2 cents:

I agree with PSH - seaweed and marine algae is a much better choice over lettuce.

And I agree with Reef Keeper - tangs need A LOT of algae and sea weed. It should be the item that makes up the majority of their diet.

And I agree with Gwen that most Damsels are not the best "room mates", though there are exceptions. (Green and Blue Chromis, Yellow Tail Blues have proven to be relatively peaceful in my tanks over the years.)

And I could not agree more with Seahorsedreams - QT is a must, not an option. Back in the days when we kept fish in tanks with coral skeletons, we could always add copper directly to the tank. But in reef tanks, or FOWLR tanks, this would be disaster. Setting up a QT tank is easy and in the grand scheme of things - cheap. It can also double as a back up tank, should something happen to your main tank. I have a 46 I use to quarantine fish, and (2) 10 gallon tanks for corals and inverts. While this doesn't guarantee that a disaster will never happen, it does make it very unlikely.

I have now stepped down from my soap box.

Check at an Asian market for dried seaweed.

I've also found dried seaweed in almost every grocery store I go to, including big chains like Safeway/Vons.

I found nori at Dommicks... checked to make sure there were no additives or anything, and put it in there earlier today. All my livestock pretty much ignored it at first, so I left a little bit in there when I went to work. Its gone now, so I guess they figured out it was there. But the same thing happened... I got home, and my tang looked like he did last night. I took him out and put him in the same container with new water from the tank, and he already looks a lot better.

Heres some pics I took of him right after taking him out. Already the brown bruise-like spots had faded, and he was more active... it only took a few minutes from taking him out of the tank. I put some flake food and a little piece of nori in there for him, and hes eating it up.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Ocelot199/tang1.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b302/Ocelot199/tang2.jpg

Those were 20 minutes ago. Now he looks normal and healthy. I don't get it...


I'm planning on getting a QT, and soon. I'm still a new startup right now though, so... I don't see the point of quarantining fish against nothing thats in the tank :P


The two damsels are just blue damsels, and they don't seem to mess with the tang. They were the first livestock I put in the tank, and they were sort of territorial when I put in my blenny, but they were terrified of the tang when he went in, and for the most part they all just ignore each other... unless they get more territorial at night when I'm not around to see whats going on, I don't think they're the problem. They don't even pick on the blenny anymore, now that they're used to him. My blenny, two damsels and my flame angel all look perfectly healthy and happy. Its just the tang thats being weird :/

This may sound silly and I could be way off, But were your lights when you came home from work?
I have noticed that shortly after my lights are turned of my tang too changes his colors, and after a short time back in the light his color will come back to normal.

Dont know if Im on here or not but it was a thought.

Please please please do some reading on the purpose and setup of a QT tank. It will save you some headaches in the future! You should have set up a QT before the first fish hit the tank water.

I don't see the point of quarantining fish against nothing thats in the tank :P

To protect your damsels, blenny and flame angel! If you had of brought the tang home, and put him in QT, the other fish would never be exposed to what the tang possibly has.... it could kill them all. Everytime you introduce a new fish to the tank without QT you risk every other fish you own. Even the first addition should be QT'd, even if there is no one else in there to get sick. They could be "housing " something you wouldn't want in your tank... something that it hard or impossible to remove once in there. Time in the QT before introduction to the display tank gives you time to make sure the fish doesn't have any undesireables.

It also gives to a good opportunity for you to observe the new addition. You'll know exactly what he's eating, exactly what he's excreting. You'll be able to inspect him every day because he'll be nice and visible in an ole QT tank.

It doesn't guarantee the fish still won't bring something into the display tank..... but it's the best chance we got and one that is well worth going an extra mile for.

This may sound silly and I could be way off, But were your lights when you came home from work?
I have noticed that shortly after my lights are turned of my tang too changes his colors, and after a short time back in the light his color will come back to normal.

Dont know if Im on here or not but it was a thought.

I got home around 10:15pm, and I have it set so the lights all turn off at 9pm. So they'd been off for a little over an hour.

And yeah, I know I should set up a QT. I'm just short on funds :/ I'll get to it before I add anything new. Right now I'm saving up all my cash for a good lighting system.

try extending your light time till after you get home and see how he does then. My guess is that the lights being off is whats causing your dilema. Thats why 20 min. later he looks fine. It takes a bit for the color to come back with the lights.

Someone jump in here if im off base.

As for the QT arnet we all a bit short in this hobby:)

I went to the lfs looking for nori again and found Green marine algae. it says its natural dried seaweeds(Macroalgae) would this suffice?

As for the QT arnet we all a bit short in this hobby:)

Yup!

It needs to be talked about more. It needs to be mentioned when it is seen.

Im sorry if it seemed as though I was down playing the need for a QT, as I was not. I have one myself. I was more making light of the amount of money this hobby can require. As always proper reaserch and tecniques should be used always when adding new fish, coral, ect.

try extending your light time till after you get home and see how he does then. My guess is that the lights being off is whats causing your dilema. Thats why 20 min. later he looks fine. It takes a bit for the color to come back with the lights.

Someone jump in here if im off base.

As for the QT arnet we all a bit short in this hobby:)

I went to the lfs looking for nori again and found Green marine algae. it says its natural dried seaweeds(Macroalgae) would this suffice?

I found the same stuff at my lfs. The thing of nori I found at Domminicks was a LOT cheaper, and it looks like the same stuff. So I guess thats what you want, if you can't find it at your grocery store. I found mine in the 'asian' aisle (yes, its called that).

I'm gonna watch my tang tonight, since I've got the night off. Lights are gonna turn off in an hour, so I'll go sit there and see what happens to him.

How did you set up your QT? Just a small tank with a HOB, heater and some LS?

it is best to go with a bare bottom in a QT tank. live sand can incubate parasites, such as ICH. with a bare bottom you can vaccum everything on the bottom out and refill the tank (water change), and leave it running for the next species to be QT'ed.

Yes I use a 29 with a few peices of LR a bare bottom, a heater, and a HOB. For lighting I just have an old flourecent light bar I used on one of my FW tanks.
Dont know if this was an okay way to do it but I used some of my water from a water change in my main tank to make up my QT. Seems good so far has worked like a charm.

How long do you usually keep new stuff in there before introducing them into the main tank?

I'm not trying to pick on anybody here, just the topic has presented itself. And some statements are concerning to me. QT tanks are the cheapest piece of equipment you can buy for your tank.... and the most useful.


10 gallon tank (appropriate for most fish.... and really any food grade tub container will do as long as you are able to maintain water quality. But a clear walled container will allow you to visualize the fish better.
Airline tubing
Air pump
test kits which you should have anyway for the display tank (pH, salinity, temp, ammonia.)
Heater
Shelter or item of comfort. PVC fitting for cave... PVC tubing for seahorse hitches (depending on their size)


That's pretty cheap.

I understand having to save up for a new lighting system but it's not essential like a a QT tank is.

I wouldn't put in a QT tank anything that you can't throw away or sterilize.

How long do you usually keep new stuff in there before introducing them into the main tank?

I do a month. I wouldn't recommend anything less than 3 weeks. Unless it's a WC seahorse and then it's 6-8.

I still have seahorses in QT since before father's day.

QT time is usually recommended for 2-6 weeks, 4 being the most popular time. I know it is hard to spend $30-70 for a coral or fish and not be able to put it right in your tank, but in the long run its the best for your wallet and tank.

I'm not trying to pick on anybody here, just the topic has presented itself. And some statements are concerning to me. QT tanks are the cheapest piece of equipment you can buy for your tank.... and the most useful.


10 gallon tank (appropriate for most fish.... and really any food grade tub container will do as long as you are able to maintain water quality. But a clear walled container will allow you to visualize the fish better.
Airline tubing
Air pump
test kits which you should have anyway for the display tank (pH, salinity, temp, ammonia.)
Heater
Shelter or item of comfort. PVC fitting for cave... PVC tubing for seahorse hitches (depending on their size)


That's pretty cheap.

I understand having to save up for a new lighting system but it's not essential like a a QT tank is.

I wouldn't put in a QT tank anything that you can't throw away or sterilize.

Like I said, I'm not planning on buying anything new for the tank anyway. I'll set up a QT before adding any new livestock, but it won't be for a while.

You don't use any kind of filter on yours?

No, I don't have any filters in mine.

Update on my tang: lights went out about 15 minutes ago, and almost instantly he had the brown bruise-like marks. Seems like he's just fine, otherwise. He's settling in where he usually sleeps. I never read anything about tangs changing color like that. I know my damsels do the same basic thing, only their entire bodies change color, not just isolated spots.

I guess he's okay, in any case.

No, I don't have any filters in mine.

So just a 10 gallon tank with a heater and an airstone?

I think I can afford that :P

Do I have to cycle it, then? Or can I just use water I take out of the main tank for water changes to fill it up?

back on topic here ... is there any chance this is a wild caught tang ??

Anytime is the right time for learning how to QT.

And QT tank converts easily to a hospital tank if the fish becomes sick and/or needs treatment. It's why I recommend a 10 gallon QT tank when it's size appropriate because most meds are easily dosed in this size tank.

No, the tank is not cycled.

I suggest 30 days of QT after the fish shows no sign of disease and is eating readily. If you need to treat for ich or some other disease, start the 30 day counter when the fish is disease free.

To me, the second best thing about having a QT tank is to give your new fish time to learn to adapt to tank life without being pestered by other fish. Going from the ocean to an aquarium is a major change, as is the foods we are trying to get our new arrival to eat. Of course, the number one reason for QT is to protect all your other livestock.

d-ster: you bet! Using water from your main tank for QT water changes is a great idea. I do it all the time. Not only does it keep your QT water in check, but it forces you to make lots of small water changes to your main tank. The other benefit is that when your ready to transfer the new fish to the main tank, you can just move him right on in (assuming the temps are the same).

For those not using a QT tank, I understand the objections. It took me years until I finally "saw the light". It's a shame that more LFS don't insist, or even encourage, the set up of a QT tank. They probably think that the added cost will turn customers away. To that I say - it won't turn away as many customers as a complete tank wipe out will. So pop on down to the LFS and purchase that cheap 10 gallon starter kit they promote (about $30 - $40 at my LFS). You'll be happy you did.

reef keeper - I am not aware of anyone breeding yellow tangs, or any tang for that matter. They are so abundent in nature that I am sure it is wild caught.

Renee,

Do you recomend different lighting for your qt?

So since you don't have to cycle or do anything with a QT, theres no real reason to set it up until you actually have something new that needs to be in there, right?

I will start doing that though, and soon. I just need to somehow find space in my room for yet another tank...

No, none of mine for fish actually have lights. Just room lights. Helps reduce stress and if you end of medicating it's easier on the sensitive eyes.

Renee is correct. The time to use a QT is from the beginning. Even when you add your first fish to your brand new (but cycled) tank, you may be introducing ich or any other number of diseases, even if this first fish shows no signs of disease.

-sigh-

Live and learn, I guess. I'm still pretty new to this.

I'm really not trying to beat up on ya. I've done it myself in the past.

We all were at one time! But it's a strong statement to your commitment to this hobby that you are here - reading, sharing, and learning.

Haha, I love everything about this hobby. I try to talk about it with my friends... they just give me weird looks and tell me I'm boring. THEY DON'T UNDERSTAND.

This is obvious, but do you also QT your inverts? Snails, clams, shrimp, etc?

I do, but you need a separate tank for this - one that is never treated with medication. And for clams and corals, you need better lights. Some people will do fresh water dips. Some people prefer iodine dips (highly diluted). Be carefull with both of these. However, anything is better than nothing.

Gosh, I thought I commented on the fish. That spot looks like melanization. Most of the time it is caused by water quality, fish compatibility or nutritional issues. So the stress of this past month could do this. There is a more common fright and night response that is white vertical body band.

Does he look healthy? It's hard to tell from the pic is he is skinny or not. Fins intact?

My Foxface has really good PJs. I'll post a pic.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y248/seahorsedreams/fish/spooky.jpg

He's nice and healthy... eats plenty, very active. Sorry about the pic quality, all I've got is my cameraphone :/

As far as I can tell, the water in the tank is as good as I can make it. Everything tests well below acceptable limits, its Ro/Di filtered, temperature is steady.

He does get white stripes on his sides, along with the bruise-like marks, but they're horizontal, not vertical. They're not there during the day, same as the bruises. During the day he's got neither at all, and looks just fine.

Doh! Meant to say horizontal.

I think he is fine.

My Foxface has really good PJs. I'll post a pic.

OMG.. you call them PJs too? i never heard anyone else call them that.. :) that rocks!!!

PJ's - what a great description!