Hi Rob

I've been listening to pod casts with more frequency lately thanks to a portable mp3 player. And I'm getting pretty caught up in the whole thing your doing here. It's great, thank you.

I have a series of questions having to do with nutrients. Basically I was wondering if you could talk about testing zero for phosphates and nitrates but at the same time expiriencing significant micro algea growth. More specifically how can you reduce your phosphates and nitrates when at any givin time there isn't much if any available in the water due to the fact that the micro algea is basically consuming it at the rate in which it's being produced.

Also my experience has shown me that micro (hair algea) out competes macro (chatoe or calerpa) which makes it near impossible to have a refugium with macro once micro settles in. Could you share with me you thoughts on this.

I've heard some people adding iron or other things into there refugium to get increased algea growth. Is this increase in growth creating an increase in nutrient removal as well or is it simply just an increase in algea growth due to the extra iron?

Thanks for you time and consideration,
Greg

Hi greg Welcome to TR

THanks Greg, i will work to get this one addressed after the lighting series is finished up

i do know nutrients were discussed in Ep64 (http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1914), so make you have heard that one, because i think some of this was in there. if not, or it wasn't clear, no problem, i go through it. :)

Hi Greg,

:welcome: to TR.

This does not directly address your question but I got my HA under control with a sea hare. Then I added cheato and it has stayed under control.

Also, are you using RO/DI water?

before this goes on..
Greg, if you are looking for answers before i get the show up, please feel free to repost this in one of the regular discussion forums

Thanks for the warm welcome all!

I just listened to Ep64 and found it very informative but I still would like a bit more clarification on my specific questions.

You know, I battled HA for over a year and found my only fix was actually growing HA as my "macro" in my refugium under 24hr lighting. And so although my display looks really good, it's frustrating for me knowing that none of the typical "fixes" on HA removal didn't work for me. Phosphate removers, large water changes, seahares and long spine urchins. I'd love be able to test for phosphate or nitrate and actually read some present. And if I did I wouldn't feel so bad performing a large (expensive) water change knowing that there was some phosphates or nitrates present to be reduced by the water change.

FYI... My display is 150g mixed reef with about 115lbs live rock and a 5"aragonite sand bed. It drains down to my basement and splits with one drain going a shallow grow out tank and then to the sump. THe other drain travels through a 55G refugium with about 35lbs live rock and TONS of HA harvested every couple weeks illuminated by normal output 24 hour a day flourescents. From there it drains in my sump where 2 skimmers await.

Topoff is kalk rodi and feedings consist of a sheet of nori every day and frozen pre rinsed mysid shrimp (which is a new food to my reef for my new school of anthias).

Sorry for the rambling but I figured you all should know.

Looking forward to future threads and posts :)
Greg

I LOVE your questions!!

Welcome to the site Greg!

Thanks gwen_o_lyn :)